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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been working on changing the fuel pump but have run into a problem with the connectors for the fuel line to the sending unit. Both lines are rusted.
I purchased the Dorman 800-120 and 800-121 quick connectors for both lines 5/16 and 3/8

Do I need the Dorman tool 800-301 to install these on the stock OEM lines? Or can I just clamp these down with fuel line clamps?

Help is appreciated. Thanks
 

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Pics would help. If the lines on top of the tank are severly rusted, you may have to replace the fuel sender assembly. The lines going from the tank to the front of the car are nylon, but have metal ends, which are not reparable without proper tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am talking about the lines going from the tank to the front of the car and fuel filter.
I would like to replace the line ends/connections with the doorman quick connectors.
 

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I checked the Dorman tool 800-301 and, you would have to use it to insert the barbed end into a nylon line.

It would probably be wise to replace the entire line. You may run into leaking ends with the old nylon line, because it takes the shape of the old ends, and hardens over time. The cost of the nylon fuel line to replace the old ones is insignificant at the point of replacing the ends, and buying the tool. You could even offer the service of making lines for others to recoup your costs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just to update this thread and give some info.

The the Dorman 800-120 and 800-121 quick connection ends used in conjuction with the nylon fuel line is the way to go.

I will be a cutting off 1" off the rusted connecttion end on my fuel line and installing the new Dorman connection.

I will also attempt to install it without the Dorman 800-301 tool.

You can simply heat the nylon tubing with hot water and lube the end of the connector with motor oil and slide it in.

If that does not work I have another option up my sleeve.
 

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Just to update this thread and give some info.

The the Dorman 800-120 and 800-121 quick connection ends used in conjuction with the nylon fuel line is the way to go.

I will be a cutting off 1" off the rusted connecttion end on my fuel line and installing the new Dorman connection.

I will also attempt to install it without the Dorman 800-301 tool.

You can simply heat the nylon tubing with hot water and lube the end of the connector with motor oil and slide it in.

If that does not work I have another option up my sleeve.
Keep us posted on your results. I have a fuel pump to change, and I am dreading the kinds of issues you have. I would feel more comfortable with my job if I knew how you have done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well the issues I have is rust. If the connectors were not rusted to the point of crumbling in my hands I would not be doing all this. I already have taken the fuel tank out and replaced the pump.

Now since I have it apart I will be using some POR rust inhibitor paint under the chassis.

I had a tool to disconnect the tank fuel lines and a while back when I replaced the tank straps I replaced the bolts and nuts with stainless steel and that made life real easy removing the tank strap this time around.

I'll let you know how I fair on the replacemet of the connectors.
 

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I replaced mine with the plastic barbed fittings & clamps.
No leaks worked fine.
I cant attest to how long they'll be fine but it was cheap & fast.
If I ever smell gas, I'll know where to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Update!!!

OK I have installed the connectors on the OEM lines and this is what I have found:

1. The Dorman 800-121 for the 3/8" fuel line installs as designed.
2. The Dorman 800-120 for the 5/16" fuel line does NOT! The design is wrong and no way will that go on the stock OEM nylon fuel line. It's looks like it's made for a fuel rubber line rather than nylon plus it's too big in diameter even if it says fits 5/16"
3. I used NAPA 730-5617 plastic connector instead for the 5/16" fuel line. Apparently they have more than one size connector with the same part number. The difference being the connection to the sending unit line. So bring your old connector and match it up.The diameter where the o-ring has to match the old connector.

How did I press them on to the line without Dorman tool 800-301?

1. I took 2 pieces of wood that are 2" thick and 7" long.
2. I lined them up together face to face like a sandwich in a vice.
3. I drilled a 5/16" hole between the two halves.
4. Drilled another 3/8" hole 2" down from the previous hole. Now you have two halves of wood each containing half a circle of the hole.

What you just built is the jig that will hold your fuel line when you tap in the connector.

5. Warm up some water in a pot and take it off the stove right before it boils.
6. Place the end of the fuel line in the pot of hot water for 10 minutes.
7. Place the fuel line in the half hole of the piece of wood and let it stick out 1.5" off the edge.
8. Clamp the two halves of wood with a 'C' clamp and line them up so that fuel line is perpendicular to the 2 halves of wood.
9. Smother a bit of petroleum jelly or motor oil on the connector end.
10. Remove the plastic retainer from the connector if it has one
11. Push in the end of the connector in the fuel line to get it started maybe 1/4" inward.
12. Take a 2x4 piece of wood and place it square in front of the connector head
13. Use a hammer and tap in the connector by striking the 2x4 piece of wood.
14. As the connector slides in you will need to move the fuel line out so that you can continue tapping in the remaining part of the connector.

So that's how I put the connectors on the fuel line.

I had the line removed up to the fuel filter.
 

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I used a heat gun took me 2 minutes. but in my case no tank around, and the line where bone dry from ages, and disconnected from the engine.


Heated the line just enough, slided the fitting right in, then rehated the line a little with the gun and let it cool down.

Its still holding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I used a heat gun took me 2 minutes. but in my case no tank around, and the line where bone dry from ages, and disconnected from the engine.


Heated the line just enough, slided the fitting right in, then rehated the line a little with the gun and let it cool down.

Its still holding.
In my case I did not have a heat gun so it did not cost me anything to build the jig. Thanks though.
 

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http://www.outdoorpros.com/Prod/Dorman-800-121-3-8-Steel-Fuel-Line-Repair/47469/Cat/1291

Can you tell me where I can get the lines because the 2 lines I need are from the tank send to the fuel filter and the one from the tank to the front of the car I will assume to the fuel rail.
Well, in my case I have rust between the two connections at the front of the engine (one side has a stell connection with nylon running rearward under the car, the other side is steel line that runs across the intake manifold and behind the TBI. The only rusty spot I have is right at the connection, unfortuantely making me replace both lines.

Anyone know where to get the whole GM part for the fuel line that runs across the front of the engine, intake, and wraps behind the TBI and into it? I checked compnine.com for the drawing --- anyone have the part number for this?
The part that is nylon and leads to this connection is 10191107
http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u...1147577254&capuid=1&majorgroup=03&grouptype=B


The part I need has this end on it:
 

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1. The Dorman 800-121 for the 3/8" fuel line installs as designed.
2. The Dorman 800-120 for the 5/16" fuel line does NOT! The design is wrong and no way will that go on the stock OEM nylon fuel line. It's looks like it's made for a fuel rubber line rather than nylon plus it's too big in diameter even if it says fits 5/16"
3. I used NAPA 730-5617 plastic connector instead for the 5/16" fuel line. Apparently they have more than one size connector with the same part number. The difference being the connection to the sending unit line. So bring your old connector and match it up.The diameter where the o-ring has to match the old connector.
Same problem here. The Dorman 800-120 has an end designed for a rubber line. The 800-121 3/8" connector went on with nothing more than a heat gun, vaseline and some patience. The local NAPA did not have the 730-5617 in stock.
 

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FYI - I have been talking with Dorman and their tech support stated that the 800-120 and 800-121 were never intended to be used with nylon fuel lines. Just an FYI.
 
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