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i have FSM

but would it be fair to say if the old unit does not make the fuel pump run while keyed off, then it def has to be the new unit?
Yes, then I would say that is the problem. Should be a simple fix and save you a lot of aggrevation and expense just to try the old one back in there.
 

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Resistor and where to cut it

Not sure if this is already posted somewhere in this thread or not. With over 11 pages, I didn't take the time to re-read thru them all, so sorry if this is duplicated.

If you can read electrical schematics, this may be helpful in seeing how exactly the resistor is wired into the circuit. I found this schematic of the Oil Pressure sending unit and it shows how the resistor is wired in.

I circled the entire circuit in YELLOW. Then where the resistor goes to ground, put a RED line through where you need to cut it. At this point you could just leave the resistor connected to the 2 TAN wires and it would work fine. But you really just snip out the resistor, keeping the 2 TAN wires connected. Maybe this visually helps others see how this is removed.

 

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cant see the pics at work but i do know my friend took out the resistor and didnt do anything else ..but if this new sender i'm ordering today doesnt work i may have to put resistor back..glad i didnt button it all up
 

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i wish to report apparent success with the AC delco part and recommend ordering it vs the knock off. upon startup the gauge shoots up to midpoint between the 'segments' on the right and stays there at idle. i had to rev pretty high to even get the needle to move and then he moved in a jerky motion, not smooth..dont know if that matters or not but i guess any movement means it works?

just want to make sure that the idle midway between the hash marks is the right spot because this is also the position where it was with the original sender with resistor in

edit: after running the engine a while the gauge dropped to the vertical middle point..assuming this is 30 out of the total 60 and is normal..so all is well
 

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i finally got around to putting back the wires above the glovebox...i didnt really take the time to wrap that darn tape as pretty as it used to be...i assume that really doesnt matter does it? :)
 

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installed z28 gauge not too long ago and just getting around to doing this mod. cut the resister and put it back and turned the car on and it shot past 80 and is stuck all the way left. hopefully once I install the new sender it'll be normal
 

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installed z28 gauge not too long ago and just getting around to doing this mod. cut the resister and put it back and turned the car on and it shot past 80 and is stuck all the way left. hopefully once I install the new sender it'll be normal
Yup,mine did the same..thats normal, truck or 9c1 sender will correct that.
 

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ok back for another question. i ordered the 1/4 female to 1/8 male adapter. is that for the 0-60 unit only? gary recommended a 0-80 and the thread on that sender is 1/8 male, so it wont fit in the 1/4 female of that adapter. so maybe i dont need that adapter? i dont want to take off the stock oil sender on my car and realize i need a part from the store.

 

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Read this carefully gramps,its the first post in the thread.

Ok, doing my part to add some of the data back into the forum...

This should have been made a sticky back in the day! How about this time around???

If you know even a little bit about your car, '94-'96 civi Caprices, and '94-'95 Impalas came with the bogus oil "idiot guage", which is wired to an oil pressure SWITCH, as opposed to a sender. This provides no real idea of pressure, just that 5psi or more exists. The resistor is tied to ground, and wired in the circuit to prevent the guage from pegging, once oil pressure breaks the ground from the oil pressure circuit. One way to fix it, is to remove the 68 ohm resistor out of the harness, and install the SEO 9C1 oil pressure sender. It is a 0-80 psi sender that only reads about halfway on the guage, as the LT1's and L99's only run about 40 psi going down the highway. Nothing wrong with that, but many don't like the guage reading that "low". Back in 2001, my way of doing it was to remove the 68 ohm resistor out of the harness, and install the oil pressure sender from the early 90's C/K series trucks. It is a 0-60 psi sender. The part # is 12553175, and can be had at your dealer for about $35. You'll aslo need a 1/4" female to 1/8" male pipe threaded adapter to make the sender fit on the stock plumbing. Under the hood, remove the bogus switch, and install the sender + adapter. In the dash, you need to find the resistor which is located in the harness wrapped in annoyingly sticky tape, just above the glove box latch, and remove it as well. Aside from that, it's plug and play. Better yet, the sender will put the needle to 2/3 on the guage at 40 psi, as opposed to the 1/2 way on the guage with the SEO sender. This mod can be easily done on 9C1's too, just don't bother with the resistor part, as 9C1's didn't have that crap.
 

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I wonder if my 1A2 wagon has a resistor. Its got similar equipment to a 9C1.
My 1A2 has a real Oil Gauge and it is like the 9C1, therefore no resistor.
The resistor was for the Civies so the gauge always pointed to same place.
9C1 and 1A2 used the good senders and no resistor in harness.
Richy
 

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My experience is the 0-60 sender w the 1/4 thread gives a more useable reading. I feel it is the best sender to use in all cases. Even as a replacement 9c1 sender. The 0-80 sender doesn't use the whole gauge scale. If you have a modified oiling system w more pressure then the 80 psi sender may be better but not for stock applications.
 

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I have the stock 1A2 sender, stock gauge but I am running the Melling 155HV pump in my 383. It is supposed to be stock pessure and 25% more volume. My gauge never is below 1/2 way even at idle when hot.
 
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