[The Lazy Destroyer]

Did this swap and still having some problems with my gauge.
Originally my gauge would "peg" with the engine running (would read low @ key-on/engine-off). So figured the sensor was bad so decided to do the 0-60 psi sensor swap instead.

Found the resistor and snipped it out of the harness. The two yellow wires appear to be soldered together w/ the resistor, so I left them connected as-is and wrapped it up.

Changed the sensor out with the new one (+ adapter), started the car but the gauge still "pegs" when the engine starts.
Oddly enough the characteristics of the gauge has changed... now it sweeps up to the peg instead of jumping directly there.

I let it idle for a bit and drive in the neighborhood for about a mile. At idle the needle sits at the last tick mark. If I rev it up it actually moved a few mm up higher, then drops back down. It never did this before, it always stayed at the same spot.
Weird

I did notice my sensor came as PN: 19244500 (not the PN: 12553175 listed originally in this thread). It's been a couple months since I've ordered it, I seem to recall the PN had changed basedon a few sites that seemed to supersede one PN with the other... but maybe that was incorrect.

Any ideas?

 

[4DoorSS]

Did this swap and still having some problems with my gauge.
Originally my gauge would "peg" with the engine running (would read low @ key-on/engine-off). So figured the sensor was bad so decided to do the 0-60 psi sensor swap instead.

Found the resistor and snipped it out of the harness. The two yellow wires appear to be soldered together w/ the resistor, so I left them connected as-is and wrapped it up.

Changed the sensor out with the new one (+ adapter), started the car but the gauge still "pegs" when the engine starts.
Oddly enough the characteristics of the gauge has changed... now it sweeps up to the peg instead of jumping directly there.

I let it idle for a bit and drive in the neighborhood for about a mile. At idle the needle sits at the last tick mark. If I rev it up it actually moved a few mm up higher, then drops back down. It never did this before, it always stayed at the same spot.
Weird

I did notice my sensor came as PN: 19244500 (not the PN: 12553175 listed originally in this thread). It's been a couple months since I've ordered it, I seem to recall the PN had changed basedon a few sites that seemed to supersede one PN with the other... but maybe that was incorrect.

Any ideas?

I don't know....are you 100% sure you cut the resistor in the correct spot. This pic should at least show you Schematically where to cut the resistor.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/2682095-post102.html

This thread has a lot of info in it and one reason I posted that pic was that some may have found it but cut the wrong area of the circuit. Didn't read through the entire thread but think this symptom happened when cut was done at the wrong point.

Also check post #108 of this thread as it sounds like the same problem you have and was the wrong sensor. Is it possible you have the wrong sensor, it was labeled/boxed incorrectly or is just defective?

Once I found the actual resistor and read the place to cut it while still keeping other wires connected, I had no issues at all. Yet some of the posts I've read here have had issues and I think due to cutting at the wrong point of the circuit.

Be sure to check your ground side of the circuit too and that it is secure and mounted cleanly to good metal and that you see continuity from the wire to actual ground. I believe faulty ground can peg the needle too. I believe the schematic shows you where that is grounded. If it's the kick panel area, not a bad idea to pull all of those anyway and clean the contact points.

 

[The Lazy Destroyer]

I cut the resistor so that the two yellow wires are still connected to each other.
I did cut the yellow-wire side of the resistor leg, not where the cut line on the wiring diagram you posted, but that should not matter since this step effectively removes the pathway (via resistor) to ground.
I'm assuming the problems in the cut from others are from not leaving the two yellow wires connected together?

My cut location looks identical to TurboChris's photo here.

Although it was a total gooey mess... I am tempted to cut and re-connect the two yellow wires but I'm pretty sure they're good.

 

[The Lazy Destroyer]

Be sure to check your ground side of the circuit too and that it is secure and mounted cleanly to good metal and that you see continuity from the wire to actual ground. I believe faulty ground can peg the needle too. I believe the schematic shows you where that is grounded. If it's the kick panel area, not a bad idea to pull all of those anyway and clean the contact points.

I'm not sure what you mean by this?
When we snip the resistor out of the circuit, it removes the ground that the resistor leads to.
So there is just the yellow wire from the Gauge assembly to the oil sensor?
My sensor connection only had 1 wire on the plug, although this looks normal based on the wiring diagram you linked.

 

[The Lazy Destroyer]

My cut location looks identical to TurboChris's photo here.

Although it was a total gooey mess... I am tempted to cut and re-connect the two yellow wires but I'm pretty sure they're good.

I just stuck each of the tan wires (said yellow earlier, meant tan) with my probe leads, they show continuity so the sensor side of the circuit is still complete.

EDIT: I also checked the "ground" side of the resistor, and it shows continuity to ground. I'm not sure where the BLK/WHT wire from the cluster (A6 connection @ cluster) joins the ground side that the resistor shares (you can see it on the diagram you provided), or if that cluster ground is even related to the oil pressure signal at all I don't know.

Maybe I got a bad sensor, not sure.
If there is anything else I can check I'd be all ears. The sensors aren't too cheap so I'd only like to buy another when I've exhausted as much as I can.

 

[4DoorSS]

I'm not sure what you mean by this?
When we snip the resistor out of the circuit, it removes the ground that the resistor leads to.
So there is just the yellow wire from the Gauge assembly to the oil sensor?
My sensor connection only had 1 wire on the plug, although this looks normal based on the wiring diagram you linked.

Sorry I was thinking it was a 2 wire sensor. Maybe it just gets ground thru the engine block, cause the schematic does seem to show a ground logo.

Out of ideas for you at this point, maybe this other schematic may help. You see where the other circuit grounds mount to but not for this sensor and I just noticed that.

http://www.goldsswagon.com/diagrams/impala_9495cluster.pdf

 

[4DoorSS]

Although it was a total gooey mess... I am tempted to cut and re-connect the two yellow wires but I'm pretty sure they're good.

I wouldn't. Just look at the schematic and picture the resistor removed. You could just check for continuity of the tan wire from the sensor lead to the gauge. That may be easier than messing with the harness. :wink2: :wink2:

 

[The Lazy Destroyer]

Drove the car around a little more last night, and the needle did drop to about 2/3 or 3/4 up at idle when the car was fully warmed up. At any driving speeds the needle goes up to the "H" mark of the gauge. It does appear to "work" but the needle is way higher than I would expect based off this thread and others that mention their LT11's warm idle oil pressure.
I was thinking about it, and this car has a rebuilt motor, could an aftermarket pump have this high of a oil pressure at idle and run RPM's??
I may just swap out to the 9C1 sensor 0-80psi and see how that does.

 

[ocala]

Drove the car around a little more last night, and the needle did drop to about 2/3 or 3/4 up at idle when the car was fully warmed up. At any driving speeds the needle goes up to the "H" mark of the gauge. It does appear to "work" but the needle is way higher than I would expect based off this thread and others that mention their LT11's warm idle oil pressure.
I was thinking about it, and this car has a rebuilt motor, could an aftermarket pump have this high of a oil pressure at idle and run RPM's??
I may just swap out to the 9C1 sensor 0-80psi and see how that does.

I purchased a truck sensor but decided not to use it, and went with the 9C1 sensor as well.

I have a Z28 cluster which is calibrated 0 to 80. I decided that if the needle sits in the low end of the gauge, so be it. I don't want to do a mathematical conversion to know my oil pressure when I look at the gauge.

I also have an aftermarket gauge, so I'm running two sensors off a "T" fitting into the fitting at the back of the intake. The truck sender which is longer, plus the adapter needed to plumb it, moved it out further along the drivers side head than I liked for clearance.

I'm not criticizing the 0 to 60PSI sender, it's a very clever mod. In my case, just personal preference.

Hope it works for you.

 

[Bigbody_sus]

I have a 9c1....Should I be concerned my needle goes only half ways...Also lately, My car has been acting up...I noticed the needle drops close to red when I let off accelerator on streets and jumps back to middle when I gas it...It stays in the middle on highway speeds.

I have the same problem , it the needle on my car just dropped completely to “L” then jumped to the “H” then went back into the red Zone . My car is starting to act up as well misfiring a whole bunch and doesn’t want to accelerate now . You guys got anything for me ??