[Guest]

To stay in F-stock for solo II, I can't change springs or rear sway-bars. I can change shocks & front sway bars. Or course the beast plows thru the course now. If I put a front bar on it, wouldn't that make it plow even worse? ( I still might get 9c1 springs?, Don' tell the mustang drivers) Don't I need to firm up the rear to make it pivot around the cones. Can shocks be adjusted to help that? IF & when I get extra rims & tires, larger front tires w/ stock width rear tires should help it turn. I will put my new ball joints on in a few weeks & trying to figure out if I need to stick the cop springs in while the a-arms are off. Thanks for the help.
babyhauler

 

[Guest]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>If I put a front bar on it, wouldn't that make it plow even worse?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, IF the bar is bigger. One way to approach this that is F-stock legal is to go with a SMALLER front bar. I believe that both 26mm and 28mm were available on the B/D bodies (i.e. available from GM, bolt right up) in the 91-96 timeframe.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>( I still might get 9c1 springs?, Don' tell the mustang drivers)<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

They would hurt things (i.e. make you slower)

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Don't I need to firm up the rear to make it pivot around the cones. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Can shocks be adjusted to help that? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, quite substantially.

 

[Guest]

They are quite pricey, but the QA1 adjustable shocks for our cars are, IMO, the ultimate bolt-on shock. I'm sure some coil-overs may be better, but there is some work there.

The QA1s have an external knob on the shock itself, adjusting from 1-12, 1 being the softest (compressing fairly easy by hand) to 12 being the firmest (I don't even wanna know what that is like...). I have mine set at 6 all around, and w/ the GW front springs, this car is firm.... With this type of flexibility, I'm sure you could, to an extent, dial in some more or less understeer. Worth a shot!

 

[Guest]

thanks

 

[Guest]

You can do the following and still stay F Stock:

1) Decide if you are going to run Autocross tires - If so then do this FIRST!

2) Mueller Frame Bushing Mod - (nobody would EVER know)

3) Urethane Front Sway Bar frame mount bushings

4) Front Urethane Upper and Lower control arm bushings. Likely have to tolerate a bit or sweaking. BUT for this class WORTH IT

5) Without he ability to replace the rear sway bar you will have to go very aggresssive on the rear shocks. I would recommend a 50/50 shock with the most agressive valving you are willing tolerate.
For starters you could try a PRO Street Stock
Oil Shock P/N SS201 they are 45.00ea from
Performance Bodies (1-800-722-4641).

AFCO makes a similiar shocks to above that have a low pressure gas charge (if you are more comfortable with that):
P/N: 1030 Medium valved
P/N: 1031 Heavy Valved
They typically run about $50.00 each
JR's 1-888-771-5574)

I have run both AFCO and PRO on dirt and asphalt cars and have been very happy with both. I am currently running the PRO SS201A
(adjustable) on the rear of my SS and have found that being able to go from 30/70 to 50/50 to 70/30 is no real advantage if you have to turn both left and right. Removing to adjust is a pain and the 50/50 works good!


I have never run the HAL (now QA1) shocks but I have talked to their tech folks and I don't think they will be the "best" choice for autocrossing a factory rear bar SS.
They do affer tuning ability but I'm not convinced they have enough overall valving at the right shock travel speeds to be the best "value" for your combo.

Only other option I know is to talk to Carrera - I am thinking of going to their shocks on the rear of my SS, front too maybe?
770-225-2042.

You will not be able to change the rear control arms but you can upgrade the bushings I would NOT go urethane in all of them DO just the Lower Arms and replace the uppers with MOOG Rubber. ALso remove the Rear spring insulators (rubber pads top and bottom of spring).

After you get the rear where you think it is OK start by swapping the front bar sizes. ED could be right that you may do better with a smaller bar. I think you can probably tune it to work with the F-Body bar though!

You will need a LOT of seat time to sort this combo out! Good Luck!

 

[Guest]

You can also add:
K&N drop-in air filter, Cat back, and Safety harness.

Like Todd said, autocross tires will reduce your times more than any other mod, but I would run at least 6 events on street tires first to develop some smoothness on the course. Autocross tires are very easy to flat spot if you spin or lock your brakes.