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I am considering purchasing a 94 Fleetwood with ~115k. As the vehicle is almost 30 years old, what suspension bits likely require refreshing, aside from shocks?

Things like tie rod linkages, bushings... Can anyone put together a brief list ?

Would like to tighten up the handling a bit. I am used to European cars. I would like to mount the 9c1 springs, new KYB shocks for the 9c1 (Bilstein a bit pricey for me), and 9c1 stabilizer bars. And Impala SS wheels with 255/60/17 (yes I know a bit taller, but more affordable tires available).

Anything else?
 

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The 255/70/17s are the same size (OD) as the OEM tires. At 115K all the rubber bushings are probably ready for replacement. If you are having someone do the work for you, you can buy the front arms loaded with all the replaceable parts. If you are doing the work yourself, you need a special tool to do the upper pivots on the front control arms. Rock Auto usually has reasonable prices, and I shop there most of the time. There are some parts that cost less locally, because of the shipping.

The 9C1 springs may give you a little taller ride height. Global West, and some others (105) Spring, Shocks, Control Arms, Sway Bars, ETC. | Chevy Impala SS Forum can be had, to change the ride qualities of your car.

You should consider the Monroe shocks for the Police/Taxi application. If the steering has not been rebuilt, use MOOG parts.
 

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OE Fleetwood tire sizes are 235/70R15, or 235/75R15 for V4P V4U B9Q and B05.
On 17" WX-QA0 wheels consider the following tire size options:
275/50R17
255/55R17
235/60R17
275/55R17
235/65R17
255/60R17
Things like tie rod linkages, bushings ... Can anyone put together a brief list?

Would like to tighten up the handling a bit. I am used to European cars ...
Tires, springs, shocks, and swaybars are basic upgrades to consider.
You should measure your Fleetwood's swaybars and the swaybars you are thinking of buying, before buying.
Some Fleetwoods already came with the same swaybars as the 9C1 / WX cars.
 

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If you're truly interested in Eurocar handling, address the B-car frame's rigidity - as in lack thereof.

These less conventional mods will all yield surprising bang for the buck in terms of handling improvement.
1. BOX THE FRAME! Cannot stress this enough (pun intended). Wagons skip this step.

2. Body Bushings. Replace the old worn ones, install the ones GM intentionally left missing.
PolyGRAPHITE bushings have all of polyurethane's advantages, and none of the drawbacks.
B- & D- car frames date as far back as 1977. Bushings for several related cars are also compatible.

3. Either a tow hitch, or anything that ties the rear frame horns together like a tow hitch, will minimize rear frame twist.

4. Dick Miller Racing Rear Triangulation Braces remove stress from the rear upper control arm connection points, keep the rear axle better centered.

5. Altering the rear antisway bar so it functions on the axle vs the frame, instead of on the rear control arms.
Rear control arms are flimsy enough for normal people's bare hands to twist them; stiffer rear swaybars twist them harder.

6. Front Swaybar Reinforcement Plate. Acts like a 'wonderbar', minimizes front frame horn twist.

7. (Something else to add more rigidity to the front frame / suspension that I apologize for forgetting).
 

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One other thing might help:
All the Fleetwoods I've ever driven, measured at least 3.5 turns lock-to-lock.
9C1 & Impala SS steering boxes are under 3.05 turns lock-to-lock.

A 9C1 or Impala SS steering box and a front swaybar reinforcement plate, together, will wake up the steering feel.
 
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