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Has any one have come across the the holes for the bushings being stripped and possible repairs?
 

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Has any one have come across the the holes for the bushings being stripped and possible repairs?
Not on mine but people have reported they had striped threads. Chase the threads with a thread chaser bit whatever the size the bolt is. You may be able to just fix" it that way. If the bolt threads are also FU, just get another bolt

or....drill stripped mount out next size larger and re-tap threads for that size and get a new bolt that size

There is a member on this forum who fished grade 8 bolts through the frame basically leaving threaded studs sticking out then he used nuts over the bar bushing clamp IIRC

so you have options
 

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I read the links, and believe the best remedy is the nutserts from Aircraft Spruce would be the easiest and most reliable method (you may be able to get the nutserts locally as well). Just pick the closest size to the original screws in SAE, and drill out the holes to the size required. You can make an installation tool with a long cap head socket screw, washer, and nut. Push the nutsert in the hole with the washer between the nutsert and the nut on the screw. Turn the nut, while holding the screw from moving, to pull the back of the nutsert against the inside of the frame, then remove the screw with the nut and washer (repeat for each screw hole). The nutserts are SAE threaded, so you can use cap head socket screws to replace the original ones.


Wagon guys, you can use the same type of tool to tighten the nutserts for your roof rack rails.
 

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Or,tap to 7/16-14.and use allen-head cap screws...
 

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Or if you know anyone who can make a pair of blocks and weld it in place. I had to do that on my 9C1. I modeled the part, and made a detail drawing and had a toolmaker/machinist at my job make 2 steel blocks from 1/2" material.

I then had a welder buddy arc weld them in place.

So you've got a few options, depending on your abilities.
 

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Thanks fro the help guys. I will start looking for the rivetnut to try that.
I have done many nutserts before . they do work to hold down a cover but a sway bar ???? no don't do it . find a bolt with a fine thread tap out the hole and using a socket allen head bolt will work best. I would not drill it out unless its necessary..
fishing a bolt into the frame so it drops into the damaged hole will work then nut it down.

I would use a strong grade 8 bolt with a fine thread . metric type.
You need a special tool for nutserts anyway ..
 

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I have done many nutserts before . they do work to hold down a cover but a sway bar ???? no don't do it . find a bolt with a fine thread tap out the hole and using a socket allen head bolt will work best. I would not drill it out unless its necessary..
fishing a bolt into the frame so it drops into the damaged hole will work then nut it down.

I would use a strong grade 8 bolt with a fine thread . metric type.
You need a special tool for nutserts anyway ..
Nutserts hold down large items out in the wind on the roof racks of the wagons. They will hold the roof racks with a bulky item at 60 MPH. With the thin soft frame member threads being substantial enough to hold the bar, the nutserts will be more than sufficient. Since the thin frame is not heat treated steel, you do not need grade 8 bolts. You can get the nutserts in coarse and fine SAE thread. This is easy if you do not overanalyze it.


You can make a homebrew tool as mentioned above, and it does not matter whether it is metric or SAE threads, nor does it matter if you have fine or coarse threads, as the OEM bolts are coarse threads. A few turns of the nut, and the nutsert is installed, no special tool required. The screw, washer and nut for installation should be grade 8, and a little lube would not hurt. Let the nut do the work, hold the screw so it can not turn.
 

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A TIMESERT might be a great solution to this problem. Much better than a helicoil.

The actual TIMESERT itself is made from unobtanium and very strong and should never strip out.
 

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I liked the idea of threading the bolts in though the frame from the top the best. Then using hardened nuts to secure the sway bar brackets (frame brace optional) with far more tension...


 

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Dat AN connection doe. Wtf is that abortion?

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Power steering fluid lines leading to their thermostat,and cooler..




 

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Oh jesus. Truly over engineered and awesome!!

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A TIMESERT might be a great solution to this problem. Much better than a helicoil.

The actual TIMESERT itself is made from unobtanium and very strong and should never strip out.

The only problem with TIMESERT or something like a Helicoil, is there is not much material for the insert to thread into. We are only talking the thickness of the frame and there are for the stock setup anyway to thread into the frame.


The TIMESERT has special threads at the bottom of the insert that lock it into the material and prevent it from backing out. So a majority of the insert will thread into the frame and most of it will not actually be inserted into steel and wont lock in. The same would be true for a Helicoil as a majority of the thread repair is just sitting inside of the frame.


When adding my F-Body Brace I will be doing an upgrade on the frame for the sway bar mount and will consider only 2 options to do this. One I prefer is how 1Slow did his and drop the bolts down and thread through the hole and use nuts. If this becomes too much of a problem, I would have no concerns over using Steel Nutserts like these from Fastenal.....


https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0125625


They offer a 3/8" -16 and a 3/8" -24 (if you want more thread) that have a working range of .15" to .312" which I think fits the frame thickness perfectly. Will have to get a mic on it to confirm the frame thickness. Certainly this is the easier route and should work fine compared to what was there before....just a few threads in the frame.


Another option, just thread a stud into the opening and use a couple of "tack welds" to hold it in place. Then use the nuts on the end similar to 1Slow's install. This could be easier than trying to thread a bolt down thru the hole and offer the same results.
 

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The old timeserts used to be ovaled a bit and then you were supposed to use red loctite to really lock them in place.

A few solutions to this problem. One is probably to use bigger bolts for added strength and then add a nut by one of the methods above. I would probably weld a nut in place if it were me. But that's just me.

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Bigger bolts, albeit nice, could actually cause a problem. Take a look at how tight the area is around the U-Clamp Bushing area. It's pretty tight there now to thread a nut or Bolt Head into that area. Making the bolt larger, may require you trim up the Bracket somehow and this may not be feasible to do. Think I had to grind down 1 side of the flat washer to get it to lay flat on the bracket.
 

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If you wanted to go to the n'th extreme, you could make a whole new plate and bracket and just weld it to the frame inboard of the frame rails. That would eliminate the whole frame issue. If you had the skills it wouldn't be hard to do really..

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I think that is kinda what juniorwatson touched on in post 7 of this thread. The only issue I have is anything inbetween the frame and the sway bar mounts, just moves the bar further away from its normal location. This may not really be that big of an issue and doing that anyway by sandwiching the f-body brace in there. You are moving the bar away from a the frame a little or thickness of that bar mount. I have seen where someone used a 1" square tube and that didn't seem to affect things.

Imho, a plate welded in may be overkill and not needed since there appears to be other viable options. If I was getting the welder out, I would be fine just tack welding some studs in the frame where the existing holes are and call it good. But there are many ways to skin this cat, just depends on your skillset and how badly you want to improve on the GM design. It is quite frightening though when holes like this strip out and as the OP indicated, you don't know what else to do. At least he has plenty of options to consider. :wink2:
 

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I think moving it inward would not be a problem if you made your mounts correctly. Too much is probably just enough in that case.

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