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Thought I'd share the fix I had to do when installing new sway bar mounts and bolts on the 95 Caprice. I Used the Upgraded GM sway bar mount Bolts (GM part#15959689) when Installing the new ES Poly mounts and bushings.. All went well taking the old bolts out UNTIL I got to the drivers side rear bolt ! Started removing it and metal shavings started coming out with it :eek: . Yep, Hole was nearly stripped and wouldn't Re-Torque to 24Ft Lbs. After removing the new bolt, The thread locker on it was history! (Why I Used Loc-Tite). The other 3 Mounting holes were fine. My solution and fix for this is detailed here:

The tools I Used for this fix are: (1) a Retracktable Magnet stick (2) Large flat Head Screwdriver (3)Hardened Flare Nut W/Nylon packing inside (4)Torque Wrench, 10mm Socket and Extensions and a small piece of metal coat hanger, Loc-Tite and Flashlight.

TOOLS USED FOR THE REPAIR

NEW NUT AND BOLT


What I Basically did was apply some Loc-Tite to the new bolt, Then Run the new bolt thru what was left of the stripped hole and Mount, just enough to barely stick up a 1/16" inside the frame. (Used a Flashlight to check the depth thru the outside frame hole). Then I Took the retracktable magnet and new Nut and carefully guided it thru the frame hole, and close to the bolt sticking up thru the frame, Then released the nut from the magnet.


Removed the Magnet Stick, Then stuck the piece of coat hanger thru the hole and guided the nut onto the bolt while using the flashlight to see it. Using a 3/8 Ratchet, I Slowly turned the Bolt until it threaded into the nut a few turns (This took a few attempts to achieve), Then stuck the large Flat head screwdriver thru the framehole and Logged it between a Flat side of the nut and the lower Front Steering gear box Bolt as shown in this pic (It fit nice and snug between them)


Slowly turned the bolt with the 3/8 Ratchet while prying up on the screwdriver until the nut was flush and the bolt had gotten fairly tight. Set the torque wrench for 24Ft Lbs and Finished tighting it up! BTW, You can forget trying to fit a 15mm Wrench or Crows foot Etc.. thru the Framehole! It Ain't gonna happen and reach the nut, I Tried this 1st! Of course I Couldn't have gotten a stripped hole on the Passenger side (Where you can get easy access to the holes) and I Dont know, Or want to find out how to repair the drivers side front hole
Hope this procedure helps some else out if it ever happens to them! :eek: It worked pretty easy for me but I Wont say it wasn't a PITA At times but I Did manage to pull it off by Myself! I'm sure a helper would make it easier. ;)
 
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Hi Bill, I See I'm not the only one that encountered this senario in the past! I have access to those type of weld nuts "As GM Calls them" at work (GM) But I'm off for a few days so I Just Had to "Improvised" This fix! However, Now I Know what to do should Any more show up Stripped! :eek: Alot of good options in those posts. BTW Bill, Are the mounting holes known to strip out on their own during normal Daily driving use or does this sort of thing usually happen just when you remove/replace the bolts? ......Thanks for the links Bill!
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Mike,

I think the collective experience of the Forum suggests that thread failure most typically happens during removal or installation, since the fasteners are said to be of the "one-time use" (prevailing torque?) variety. I can imagine that on cars with greater moisture/salt corrosion exposure, the threads in the frame are more prone to let go in a "dynamic" situation. The larger bars frequently used probably contribute to the problem, since more force gets applied to the clamping points--and in the process of changing the bar or bushings, I'd wager that the fasteners are frequently over-tightened, damaging the threads on the fastener and/or the frame.

From your own experience, assembly-line efficiency can often dictate use of special methods/parts that don't stand up to any amount of R&R.

The way GM did this particular setup probably saved a couple of repetitive motions or assembly steps, or reduced cost, which the bean-counters were always interested in. Many alternatives to what GM did are available, and we've probably covered most of the most practical ideas in the discussion(s) I linked for you.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Mike, nice write up & pix.

I got lucky when I did mine, both Pass. Side Bolts needed Nutting[is that a word?
]. Very Easy.

Ummm, Retractable Magnet Tool[where's my list?] :cool:
 
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Originally posted by Navy Lifer:

From your own experience, assembly-line efficiency can often dictate use of special methods/parts that don't stand up to any amount of R&R.

The way GM did this particular setup probably saved a couple of repetitive motions or assembly steps, or reduced cost, which the bean-counters were always interested in. Many alternatives to what GM did are available, and we've probably covered most of the most practical ideas in the discussion(s) I linked for you.
Boy you said a mouthfull there Bill and every word of it's TRUE! Back in 95, It stands to reason that many of these bolts were quit possibly "Over-Torqued" on the Assy line Also! We didn't have Nearly the Number the Precise tools set to the proper torque specs as we do now in GM. The way things are setup now, If your Gun does not shoot the proper Torque on a given Assy process, a Siren goes off above your Head and Your tool has a red Light indicator on it. If it's not Torqued properly in 30 Secs, The Line stops! The General Has slowly Gotten things together in this Aspect. Our whole plant is now on this Setup. There are 20 "Torque Monitors" (People) in the Plant that their sole job is to go around the Plant each day in their designated area with some Pretty High $$$ Equipment and check all the Tools/Guns for proper torque specs, Right down to the Battery powered 10nm Small nuts and bolts. MVSS Items are Really scrutinized! Even cars needing "Repairs" are done with a Torque wrench that's connected to a "Brown/Sharpe" hand held torque monitor and cant be considered an "Approved Repair" until the torque data from the repair is uploaded into
the Plants Mainframe monitoring System.
 
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Originally posted by LarryCigar:
Mike, nice write up & pix.

I got lucky when I did mine, both Pass. Side Bolts needed Nutting[is that a word?
]. Very Easy.

Ummm, Retractable Magnet Tool[where's my list?] :cool:
Thanks Larry! The Retractable Magnet I Have is Spring loaded setup, Once you get what you need to where it's going, Release the Thumb Spring and It lets go. Great also for guiding Bolts Etc.. To those hard to reach area's! BTW," both Pass Side Bolts needed Nutting, You LUCKY Sh$t!
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by B-Body Builder:
BTW," both Pass Side Bolts needed Nutting, You LUCKY Sh$t!
If I'm so lucky, why can't I hit the F__kin Lotto.
I don't wanna work no more!
 
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The Retractable Magnet I Have is Spring loaded setup, Once you get what you need to where it's going, Release the Thumb Spring and It lets go. Great also for guiding Bolts Etc.. To those hard to reach area's!
And who makes that nifty little bugger? I want one.
 
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Originally posted by Terry McManmon:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr /> The Retractable Magnet I Have is Spring loaded setup, Once you get what you need to where it's going, Release the Thumb Spring and It lets go. Great also for guiding Bolts Etc.. To those hard to reach area's!
And who makes that nifty little bugger? I want one. </font>[/QUOTE]OK Guys, Ask and you shall recieve! The Retractable/Flexable Magnet Stick I Have is made by Proto Professional Tools (Stanley) , Part # 2377 and it's called a " Heavy Duty Magnetic Pickup Tool. Here's the Link to this tool on the Stanley/Proto website.

Proto (Stanley) 2377 Pick up tool

I Got mine off of E-Bay but here's a link where you can buy it online for $19.68.
protoolsdirect.com

Or find a Distributor in your area that has it at this Link:

Stanley-Proto tools Locator

Here's a pic of this tool off their website!

 
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Discussion Starter #13
If you want a more permanent fix you can bring your car to a good welding shop and have them weld in some weld nuts.....thats what i am going to do when i swap my bars.
 
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