Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Working on getting the Imp back into action after several years of slumming it in the garage.

I've had a used 2nd gen F-body front sway bar and end links in the corner of the garage that I've moved 3 times in the past 10 years or so, but no rear bar. I was not able to find a HA/HO rear bar at the time.

Now it is coming time to seriously look at working up a suspension combo for her. I just picked up a BMR standard length upper and lower rear arm set for her. I also plan to get a sway bar brace for the front end, but it may be before or after the new bar combo.

Is it worth my time to try to:
1) search around to find an original (used) HA/HO rear bar?
2) find a different rear bar to pair with the f-body front bar I already have?
3) say to heck with it all and go in on a Hotchkis front/rear bar combo and sell the front bar to maybe offset some of the cost?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,425 Posts
Personally I'll be pulling my rear hotchkis off in favor of a stock bar to see if it helps plant a little more around turns. The front is more important to me for turning. I'm also in on the GP for the brace bar...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
I agree with Timmay.... I Autocross and Road Race my Impala with the stock sway bars. My buddy put on a thicker rear bar and now has problems applying power out of the turns. It is nice on the street, but not so good in an AutoCross or Road Racing.

Just ask Ed Runnion and the others that regularly race their Impalas.

Later,
Michael
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Suspension Package

It all depends on how you plan to use your car. For a nice street set-up the Hotchkis package will work very well. A Torsen posi. or one of the geared units will allow you to put power down to both rear wheels and will reduce under steer without the need for huge sway bars.

The Herb Adams bars were designed for a stock suspension and drive train. IMHO they are too stiff for a car with other suspension mods. My car is neutral to over steer on the track. Not a problem if you do not Lift in a corner, but I am thinking of putting my stock rear bar back on to make the car a little more forgiving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I'm not looking for a track car at this point, it will be 99% street driven, at least for the foreseeable future. It is currently stock all around, but I'm making future plans for probably next year as I already have plenty of stuff to install that is currently sitting around. It is looking toward a fall/winter mod, but I want to start planning early.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
I use a Torsen T2 posi unit. My buddies car also has the Torsen T2R, but has problems putting down power with a thick sway bar. We put on a smaller sway bar, but I truly feel that he would do much better with the stock sway bar.

Michael

It all depends on how you plan to use your car. For a nice street set-up the Hotchkis package will work very well. A Torsen posi. or one of the geared units will allow you to put power down to both rear wheels and will reduce under steer without the need for huge sway bars.

The Herb Adams bars were designed for a stock suspension and drive train. IMHO they are too stiff for a car with other suspension mods. My car is neutral to over steer on the track. Not a problem if you do not Lift in a corner, but I am thinking of putting my stock rear bar back on to make the car a little more forgiving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,484 Posts
So The Torsen T2 likes a softer rear sway more ...wonder if the more common Eaton or Auburn clutch type LS diff's work better with stock bars vs larger, stiffer, aftermarket ones
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Torsen T2R

Roger,

I have a Torsen T2R in the car. As you know it is a geared unit. The T2R has a 3 to 1 torque bias. For example if the inside rear wheel is starting to lose traction the differential can put three times as much torque to the outside wheel as it allows to the inside wheel. That allows you to get on the gas sooner and harder. With power to both rear wheels you get out of the turn faster and the car wants to turn in better.

FWIW I have a set of the smaller Smoky Bears sway bars and some Dodge Truck springs in front. Stock springs with Air Lift Bags in back.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,774 Posts
Hotchkiss front and stock rear bar here.
The Hotchkiss rear resulted in wicked oversteer in my car on stock springs and stiff bushings in the rear UCA's and LCA's.
I still can't put power down out of the turns.
Going to 800 lb/in front springs this year and may experiment with more rear bar again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
I am running the Moog 7268 front springs(748lbs) and some true coil rear springs(200lbs) from Speedway motors with the stock front/rear sway bars. I am pretty happy with the handling of the vehicle.

Michael
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,484 Posts
For me I find the degree of Over Steer is directly related to my right foot coming out of a turn. Could I be more hammer foot with a softer rear bar, IDK. I find that "driving" the set up I have as hard as I can involves controlled use of the right foot.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top