[95wagon]

I was not suggesting using that clip as the seller intended.
Using it to stop the belt from feeding into the latch so the lap belt stays tight was my intent.

 

[95wagon]

Toonwarrior ,

How about this ?

I moved the lock pin from the sub strap to the right belt so the buckle stays attached to it.
This so it can be used as a lap belt.
Quick to adjust , quick release .
Let me know if you want it .

 

[1slow96]

Some simply tie a knot in belt.

 

[toonwarrior]

PMed on a silly question.

Some simply tie a knot in belt.

The main nuisance I found was that you had to move your seat back, tighten the belt/ knot it and then move your seat forward for the super snug fit, I could never get it snug enough without having to move the seat. It's not a big deal but it can be tedious if you a few sessions in the day and your seating position slightly changes each run.

 

[1slow96]

After each run ,move seat back before doing anything else.

 

[95wagon]

Which means a race seat, proper roll bar or a correct height harness bar.
Never seen chest straps. 😏
Broken ribs in an accident ?
Upper harness harness on its own isn't going to control much lateral movement .
What harnesses are you using Jack?
If you asked the harnesses here to try and control lateral body movement I think they would slide off the hans and strangle the driver.
Reefed tight the shoulder straps hold the driver back in the seat , a race seat offers the lateral support.
All I could offer is an expired harness he could try just the lap to cinch himself down.
What have you got to offer him?

 

[BALLSS]

These B bodies have Barcalounger's for seats so if one intends to get aggressive autox use and stay put....than a 5 point belt system at a minimum but better yet with a race seat.

Gerry lives in the race world and knows the difference and needs.

Me, I have driven a NASCAR (Skip Barber school) and know in those kind of cars set up with racing purpose seat and harness you don't move. You are really "up" on the wheel. That is the set up you need in a B body if you want to use it in those driving conditions

 

[toonwarrior]

It's all about the trade off between street and track usage. If I find if I that I have to modify the seats, add a cage then you know I might as well get a car more fitting for the job 😂.

So I've kept my limitations to keep the car as streetable as possible, stock interior, exterior.

95wagon provided me a good alternative with the lap belt so we'll see how that goes once I get it setup in the coming months.

 

[Marky Dissod]

These B bodies have Barcalounger's for seats so if one intends to get aggressive autox use and stay put ... than a 5 point belt system at a minimum but better yet with a race seat.

It's all about the trade off between street and track usage.
If I find if I that I have to modify the seats, add a cage then you know I might as well get a car more fitting for the job 😂.

So I've kept my limitations to keep the car as streetable as possible, stock interior, exterior.

I get that some people want to keep things as OE as possible - although I tend to disagree with them where LT1 cars are involved.
OE and street-able do not necessarily need to be the exact same thing; a little flexibility and imagination here can go a LONG way.
You can fool everyone who cares to look inside your car, and still improve on the OE seat's ability to autocross.

It'd certainly be cheaper than getting a car more fitting for the job!

 

[95wagon]

Not to harp

https://www.schrothracing.com/doc-share/competition_instructions.pdf

Mounting a harness wrong is as bad as not mounting it at all.
This is partially why I just sent him a just lap.
Get angles to floor mounts correct , crank yourself into seat seat for autocross.
Not for street , keep production unmodified belt system intact.
Shoulder harness without a proper sub angles , you run the risk of them pulling the lap up off your torso into your stomach.
There is no way to run a sub properly without a hole in the seat.
As stated before , incorrect shoulder mounting just as bad.

 

[Chavo96]

Just to chip on the experience with the smaller bar in the rear and bigger bar up front.

The car would grip a lot harder, as in to get the rear out during a turn I had to be on the accelerator quite hard. So I can see why especially on larger tracks it would be beneficial to do it because you're not hitting mustang type oversteer that quickly at high speeds since the turns on larger road courses won't be as sharp negating the need for that stiff of a bar in the rear.

However two issues with my application,

My autocross series is very tight so you kind of need an on demand turn-in type deal, and I do think it can be done with even a stock bar in the rear, however without bucket seats/harness you cannot physically stay put making it a very bad experience.

Stock seat and belts even tightened very hard I'm getting thrown left and right even though from the footage I've seen of my car it doesn't look like my car is rolling that hard.

The session I had two weeks ago with the BMR rear bar and 750 springs up front felt the best just because my physical self wasn't moving that much and I felt in control for once 😂. This Saturday with the alignment I have now I'm curious to see how the car handles because the alignment I had when I first tried it two weeks ago was fairly off.

Just straightens out very nicely
View attachment 207377

I would love to dwelve into the axle mounted bar deal but I got a ton of stuff to address before hand.

All poly in the rear (old rubber in the axle housing), extended fix length control arms, no DMR braces, old bushings and balljoints up front on the control arms.
I've got some ways to go to make it more ideal...

Just to chip on the experience with the smaller bar in the rear and bigger bar up front.

The car would grip a lot harder, as in to get the rear out during a turn I had to be on the accelerator quite hard. So I can see why especially on larger tracks it would be beneficial to do it because you're not hitting mustang type oversteer that quickly at high speeds since the turns on larger road courses won't be as sharp negating the need for that stiff of a bar in the rear.

However two issues with my application,

My autocross series is very tight so you kind of need an on demand turn-in type deal, and I do think it can be done with even a stock bar in the rear, however without bucket seats/harness you cannot physically stay put making it a very bad experience.

Stock seat and belts even tightened very hard I'm getting thrown left and right even though from the footage I've seen of my car it doesn't look like my car is rolling that hard.

The session I had two weeks ago with the BMR rear bar and 750 springs up front felt the best just because my physical self wasn't moving that much and I felt in control for once 😂. This Saturday with the alignment I have now I'm curious to see how the car handles because the alignment I had when I first tried it two weeks ago was fairly off.

Just straightens out very nicely
View attachment 207377

I would love to dwelve into the axle mounted bar deal but I got a ton of stuff to address before hand.

All poly in the rear (old rubber in the axle housing), extended fix length control arms, no DMR braces, old bushings and balljoints up front on the control arms.
I've got some ways to go to make it more ideal...

Great input Toonwarrior.

This made me re-think everything for my daily driving. I was thinking of going with the sway bars that are included in the QA1Level 2 Kit. Do you have any experience with those?

 

[toonwarrior]

Great input Toonwarrior.

This made me re-think everything for my daily driving. I was thinking of going with the sway bars that included in the QA1Level 2 Kit. Do you have any experience with those?

If it's coming with the kit your installing then definitely run those, since you can adjust spring rates with your coilovers, the bar size is going to be less of a deal it is then if you would have with a regular coil spring, with a regular coil spring other than swapping out the whole spring or cutting it down we can't really adjust the rate so the significance of the sway bar size is higher

I think three pedals with their QA1 Kit on their impala SS doesn't even run a rear sway bar, not that you shouldn't but with the adjustability you have with the spring rates allows you to make it how you feel, (i.e you want more understeer, stiffer up front softer out in the back etc.)