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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Front Swaybar Mount Bolt Fix - My Method (Pics)

I had posted this years ago before the forum data loss, But it looks as if other are having the problem again.

My fix basically involves using a "Nut/Bolt" setup instead of the self tapping screws GM Used at the factory. This is also the method we used to fix a badly stripped out bolt at GM, and before the introduction of the threaded collars we install now via a large river gun on the assy line at GM. I went ahead and fixed all 4 of my holes while I had the bar out of the car and installing new swaybar mounts with zerk grease fittings.

Only tools i used for the fix were:
1. A flexable magnet tool (Same type used to pick up bolts/nuts)
2. Large and X-Large flathead screwdrivers
3. 1" to 1-1/2" Nut/Bolt setup, Near the same size or slightly larger than the self tapping screws the factory used. I actually used Grade 5 Chevy header bolts and locking nuts with the nylon inserts for this fix.
4. Loc-tite on threads (Optional)
5. Piece of metal coathanger in case you drop the nut inside the frame (Good way to guide the nut out).

The fix is simple: The nut is easier to install if you have someone below slowly turning the bolt while you guide the nut onto it thru the oblong frame holes . Put the front of the car on jackstands, remove both L&R Front tires for ample access room. Get a drillbit (1 size larger than the bolt) and drill out the swaybar mounting hole(s).

Then use the flexable magnetic tool with a nut on the end to guide the nut thru the oblong frame holes. Your assistant can shine a light from the bottom and see when the nut is on location, then start threading the bolt thru the swaybar bracket and into the nut. Once the nut is started on the bolt properly, remove the magnetic tool and stick a large screwdriver thru the frame hole and jamb it up against the side of the nut to hold the nut while your assistant tightens the bolt down to approx 30-35 Ft Lbs of torque. The factory spec for the self tapping front sway bar bracket bolts is 23 Ft Lbs, but with this nut/ bolt combo you can add a little more torque. Here's some pics of the setup and what I Used.












 

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Just beware, at some point down the road, even with stainless, you'll get some corrosion or crude that will make for just spinning bolts as you can't grip the nuts. Even the rivnuts I used spun after years. But much easier to remove and insert a new one.
 

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I threaded hardened 7/16-14 bolt from inside the frame creating studs for 12pt.ARP nuts.

 
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I like the idea of dropping the bolt down thru for a couple of reasons....

1) It may be easier to lift the bar up onto the bolt and then thread the nut on from underneath. If using the F-Body Brace in addition to the bar, this could be an easier method than trying to push the Bolt up thru both bars and start the nut.

2) At some point if you need to remove and the nut is hard to hold inside the frame andthe bolt may just spin. If the Nut is on the underside, you can just use a Nut Splitter and use a new nut when reinstalling.

Just my $.02
 
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