[dreeeeew]

Well I think I found that clunk noise from my driver side front that I've been hearing/feeling.

Looks like where the control arm connects to the front sway bar.

Is this as easy as replacing the missing bushing? Or would I need to replace more?

 

[91ss]

Doesn't look rusty so you may get away with undoing it and just a new bushing. Hopefully didn't wallow out the control arm.

 

[1slow96]

One can source a set of bushings. Or the whole kit. Neither is expensive.

 

[Lance]

MEVOTECH TXMS508179 HD end link kit for $11

ACDELCO 45G0013 end link kit for $11

 

[dreeeeew]

I went with these. Hard to beat 2.35 for each. Gotta love Wholesale Closeouts. Grabbed a few for backups.

Seems simple enough to swap them out.

And after finding out they're so inexpensive, I notice:

Do you still have the stock swaybar? If so, I'd just get a new pair of stock bushings. They'd be about as durable as anything else you are gonna try.

BTW, be SURE you REPLACE the bolts that hold the bushing brackets to the frame. They are a torque to yield design, which means they are usable ONCE. If you try and re-use them, it's a good way to strip out the threads in the frame. Then you have a REAL problem

Ed

Glad I went ahead and got the bolts too.

The more you know...

 

[Fred Kiehl]

The bolts have prevaling torque nuts on them, and they should only be used twice. You usually need an impact wrench to remove them because of the length of the thread. The bolts are standard bolts, but may not survive the removal of the nuts. It may be easier to use a bolt cutter to sever the bolt, and just put the new ones in. The bolts can not be torque to yield, because they are not in a tension only application. The nuts are run all the way to the end of the threads, and partially compress the bushings.

 

[dreeeeew]

The bolts have prevaling torque nuts on them, and they should only be used twice. You usually need an impact wrench to remove them because of the length of the thread. The bolts are standard bolts, but may not survive the removal of the nuts. It may be easier to use a bolt cutter to sever the bolt, and just put the new ones in. The bolts can not be torque to yield, because they are not in a tension only application. The nuts are run all the way to the end of the threads, and partially compress the bushings.

So you're saying this just might be the excuse I've been looking for to break out the old nut buster.

 

[Fred Kiehl]

You may not be able to get it into the space available. A hack saw would work too.

I used my impact wrench from the bottom.