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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to fix this ASAP. My car is my daily driver and I start teaching next week. Dang car couldn't have broken at the start of summer when I had plenty of time!

So I have been looking through tons of post and am just getting more and more confused. Too many ways to fix this, some appear to not work long term or with a daily driver.

Trying to do this on my own (so I don't have to wait for a shop to get to it), I'm thinking of doing the nutsert method. But I'm not sure exactly how.

Since the holes are stripped, do I need to ream them out? And if so, to what size?

Scott's swaybar faq mentions using a 3/8" nutsert. Does that mean the hole should be 3/8"? And then do I use new factory bolts or do I need to buy a different size?

Lastly, the dang OEM strap is bent all to heck. The local dealers have no stock. I know PST and ES make a bushing/strap kit, but I don't know what part number to use. Anyone?

Thanks for the help.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
You can get just about all of the sway bar parts, end links and mount bushings at Pep Boys. Look for them on an end cap display.

As for the stripped threads. Did you try to re-use the stock bolts? They have distorted threads and are not meant to be re-usable. Go to True Value and get some new metric bolts (I used allen head bolts) and just run a tap into the threads in the frame. That should clean them up, but if it doesn't then use nuts instead.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The problem is I don't know what specfically to get. If I'm not mistaken, all straps aren't made to the same bolt pattern and radius? Do I just get the "kit" for an ImpalaSS or a F-body?

If I try to tap out the whole, what size tap do I use? I know nothing about tap&dies. And then, what size bolt will I need? I'm guessing that since the tap cuts into the hole to make the threads, the factory bolts will no longer work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Front Sway Bar Frame Bushing Kit[w/ "U" clamps]; Energy Suspension PN 3.5183[or PN 9.5171].
AZ or PepBoys.
Stock OEM Front Sway Bar is 30mm diameter.
:eek: Insure bushing SLITS face front, when you slip them on bar.

You can use OEM bolts, and back them up with M10 x 1.50pitch Nuts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Because I plan on removing the front sway bar often, I picked up 4 10mm wheel studs and some nuts. The wheel studs have the teeth on them so they bite into the frame. I picked up a 9.9mm drill bit and drilled out the existing holes. After that, I used a piece of wire to feed the studs into the frame and finally, a nut to seat them into the frame. Works great!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I forgot to mention that I have the 32mm F-body bar and the newer GM bushings. Sorry about that, lots of stuff going through the vacuum in my head...

CMoney, thanks for the info. I remeber reading someone used wheelstuds, but don't remember a size or how it was implemented. I'll try that as the parts should be local and I can do it in my sloped driveway.

Larry, are the straps all the same size? I'm thinking that the bushing's outside size is the same, just the inside diameter is different.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sheesh, why so much drama. I also went to an F body bar and I've had it on and off at least 5 times. I re-used the stock strap with a new bushing. Just get NEW bolts and re-tap the threads in the frame. I don't know the exact thread size as it's been 2 years but 10 x 1.5 sounds right.

NEVER reuse the stock bolts, they have distorted threads are only meant to be used once!


front sway bar threads stripped size bolt bushings bushing 32mm 32 mm f-bofy f body OEM tap frame
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Stumpy, while this may be cake for you, the fact that I'm coming here and asking questions is a good indication that it's not for me. If you're as frustrated with me as it sounds, imagine how much more I am. I don't want to do this and have to do it again in a week or have it pop loose at the wrong time.

As I said above, I know nothing about taps. I do know the 10mm bolts I bought for replacement slip right in and out (thread isn't connecting). So I don't see how "tapping" the hole with a 10mm tap would be any different, and therefore the factory bolts are pointless. Please enlighten me if I'm missing something.

That's why I was asking about a nutsert fix.

Sadly, I still don't know about what ES bushing clamp/strap to get. I'm guessing one's for a Camaro with 32m bushing. There's not a boneyard within 60 miles of me that allows "do it yourself" scavenging or has any b-bodies.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another note about the wheel studs. The nuts are 10x1.25 that go on the studs. http://www.mcmaster.com/ is the best place to get them since you can pick up the 9.9mm drill bit at the same time. I was not able to find that size locally but McMaster has just about everything.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Options:
1) Since you've damaged OEM SB clamp/s[straps], and can't access them from a Boneyard, you can order it/them from Dal, along with (4) new bolts[PN supplied in your other post]. And purchase (4) Nuts[M10 x 1.50] to back up bolts in holes that are stripped.

2) Go with CMoney's Wheel Stud solution, and purchase Energy Suspension SB Frame Bushing Kit,
PN 9.5116[Nongreaseable] or PN 9.5166[Greaseable]. These are both 32mm.
 
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