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Discussion Starter #1
7000 miles ago I had my original factory swaybar fitted with Z-28 endlinks and OEM rubber frame bushings. I have found my driver's rubber bushing "squeezed" out from b/w the bar and the frame and the whole swaybar shifted enough that the elbow to the bar was entering the rubber bushing brace on the driver's side. I had a GM dealer install the parts since I had a total suspension rebuild. My camber is -2.5 equally on both sides and the caster is 3.8 driver and 3.9 passenger - if that makes a difference. I took it back to the dealer to fix it. They said no need for new bushings - weren't damaged. Got it back and I can see already after 100+ miles, the bar trying to push the bushing out again. It's not at the extreme as original (flopping half way out) but I know it will occur again. One more thing, I did check the bolts and they were "as tight as nails" and well lubed.

Any ideas would greatly be appreciated.
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Have you lowered your car? If so, you many need shorter endlinks due to the changed geometry, and that might in turn lead to this problem. I'm not sure, though, about whether it would have this effect. There was a thread a couple of months ago about the need for shorter end links for lowered cars. If you search, you should find it. HTH
 
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No I didn't lower the car - I replaced the saggy OEM coils with new GM OE coils all the way around - so I've retained the stock height, although, it may ride a little higher than before the rebuild but not noticable though. Thanks for the thought, Erik!
 
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Discussion Starter #4
If you are using stock insulators (bushings), there are 2 things:

1. If there is any lubrication on the bushings, that could let them slip out of place. Make sure they are free of any lubricant.

2. The bushings are made with a split, so thay can be fit onto the stabilizer shaft, and if they are installed "backwards", the split end will be more likely to slip out of place in the clamp due to the normal motion of the shaft, which will be "pulling" to the rear. If the bushings are installed with the split on the rear/aft side of the shaft, reverse them so the split is on the front side. Any lubrication will only make this condition worse.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Okay, Navy Lifer - I will check those splits to be sure they are in the fore position of the bar. However, I do know the lubricant is ONLY b/w the bar and the inside of the rubber bushing - none of which touches the exterior of the bushing or the metal c-clamp brace or frame, unless it leaked by the split and found it's way b/w the bushing and the frame. However, I should note that prior to this recent "fix" there wasn't any notable lubricant to begin with. Also, to make the point of the lacking lubricant on the initial install, even the passenger side rubber bushing was working it's way out of the clamp, but in a uniform fashion thereby resembling enough friction b/w the bar and the bushing.

When the driver's bushing was flopping out, I do remember the split of the bushing to be in the aft position, so I am assuming they did the same this time around also - so I will check.

The way things are "working" it seems the lateral shift of the bar is wedging the rubber out of the clamp - so the question IMHO is what could cause the bar to move laterally in a more perminent fashion; there is a physical shift a good 3/4" of the bar to the passenger side and the only thing keeping the bar from going further is the bend in the bar meeting the driver's side metal bushing clamp.

I did not replace the bar in the suspension rebuild - ??? bent bar??? - incorrect install of endlinks??? I don't know.

Thanks all!
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by Navy Lifer:
If you are using stock insulators (bushings), there are 2 things:

1. If there is any lubrication on the bushings, that could let them slip out of place. Make sure they are free of any lubricant.

2. The bushings are made with a split, so thay can be fit onto the stabilizer shaft, and if they are installed "backwards", the split end will be more likely to slip out of place in the clamp due to the normal motion of the shaft, which will be "pulling" to the rear. If the bushings are installed with the split on the rear/aft side of the shaft, reverse them so the split is on the front side. Any lubrication will only make this condition worse.
Hmmm, not to hijack this but I've got those greasable bushings for my swaybar. This is not good? I can see not having grease on the outside of the bushing where it contacts the clamp but having grease inside the bushing where it contacts the bar doesn't seem like a bad idea... :confused: Unless it no grease only applies to rubber and not poly.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Greasable bushings ARE good....keeps the bushing from binding up.

As for this issue, I'd suggest a simple solution : two hose clamps. Take the hose clamps, and put them on the bar so that the clamps ride just inside of the frame bushings. Tighten down the clamps as much as you can. This way, when the bar tries to shift it'll hit the hose clamp instead and not move.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I checked under the car today and found that both rubber bushings to the frame had the splits in the front (closest to the bumper). :mad:

Ed: That sounds like a fix but I'm trying my darndest to find the source than band-aid the problem. I do understand though some things can't be fixed without being looked at due to me missing something that a more trained eye than mine would pick up on - but that's where the GM dealer was suppose to come into play.


Any other thoughts!?! My next step is back to the dealer with the problem.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Are they different splits than the splits that are on the bushings so you can slip the bushings over the sway bar?
 
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Discussion Starter #10
No, just one (manufactured) split on the whole bushing - I even checked to see if it was a sheering type or clean and checked to see that there was only one on each of the rubber bushings; both found in the direction of the front side of the bar pointed to the front bumper.
 
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