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Swaybars?

6863 Views 58 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  96 Black
Do SS/9C1 sways bolt up to the D bodies?

I see them at times still in the yards and on here for reasonable rates, yes I know to measure mine first on mine. All I am looking for is a set of OE pull offs from one of those, nothing wild. Just hoping to tighten up the body roll a touch, not turn it into a Z51 equipped Vette.

Thanks guys
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What the heck size did the Fleetwood use in the rear?
My experience with two FWBs has been that the oem (FE1) rear bar is appreciably visibly really smaller dia. than the SS bar. On my first one I replaced the oem front with the SS front from my SS (which itself then got an F-body bar), and then replaced the stock rear (the notably skinnier one) with the SS'es rear bar (which then itself got an HO rear). I then 'added' the FWB rear bar back onto the SS rear bar for no less understeer than without it (still shoved in corners even with 255/50-17 - Bilstien - old sacked out SS coils) So, I then got another SS bar from a friend and doubled them up back there. Now THAT ran it much flatter = very nice. And yes, more oversteer.
For my current FWB I got an SS bar for the front and took the second rear SS bar off the other FWB for the back as I don't need the current driver quite as road-hugging. There's another FWB regular on here who saw about my doubles and decided to just combine the oem rear bar with an SS bar and he's pleased. Just a bunch of reference FWIW.


[part. snips for comment] .
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Trailer hitch - less rear end shaking over bumps/potholes.
[best Buick brace ever made. Plus, it doubles up as a trailer hitch to boot. :p ]

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Bilstein shocks - huge improvement front and rear - turning, bumps, potholes, dips, braking. Factory air shocks are not good for body lift/roll in turns.
[have them on all my cars, even my son's '88 MC SS. Except I thought I'd try the Monroe Severe Service (poor man's Bilsteins) on my current FWB. OK, but lil bit stiffer compression. Will. Be. Changing. To. Bilstein. All around. I also hear KYB mono-tube Gas-A-Just are good alternate and cheaper.]

Aftermarket rear lower control arms with poly (UMI, Metco, etc.) - less jiggling over washboards, more stable in turns. Rear UCAs are stock and new rubber.
[1st Gen Extended Metco on the garage queen SS, Hotchkis on the FWB. Strongly recommend aftermarket.]

Springs - front are still FE1, should be a little stiffer. Rear Moog cargo coils are too stiff--car is much flatter in turns, but oversteered until I put in the 30mm swaybar. Shoulda changed the swaybar first, then played with springs.
[~1/2 coil cut off oem fronts (1" drop and stiffer but no risk of bottoming out like happened when I cut almost 2 coils off the first FWB), and left the stock rear coils alone - more notes below]
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Air Lift 1000 air bags in rear - least useful thing I did. Not helpful with the cargo coils, so I keep them at minimum pressure. Maybe they'll be useful with some slightly softer non-progressive rear coils.
[Agreed Airlift is overkill with your cargo coils. But then again, I left the rear coils as stock and just added the Airlift 1000. Only a few lbs. but levels the rear back up (after ditching the terrible oem airshocks) plus adds attractive 1" rake]. And ten more lbs. carries the heaviest tongue wt. when towing]
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Then it was time for a new 2.5 steering box and 18" wheels/tires. I'm sure the car needs new body mounts (the originals must be shot by now) but it is a lot more fun to drive than it first was.
[Big Fat +1 on the 18" and even going 'Plus 1" Rubber' (of course needs a program). Running 255/50-18 gives 'nearly' the pleasant ride of tall stock -65 series sidewall plus much bigger contact patch.]
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The R1P cars have the SS/9C1 sway bars.
That would make perfect sense, and a good little piece of intel if looking over a livery model. Makes me wonder what the V4P trailer spec has hidden underneath.

Boy, lookie what the first hit on a search drug up. These guys were a couple quite ancient posters:
I recall t'was a Livery, but the VIN does not bring up anything near any pics as does neither any links he'd shown himself. Same case for Katshot's FTS (incidentally why I named mine FTSS after finding he'd used it already). Having fits finding the old threads with any working pics. When I got mine from in front of a Dayton OH funeral home in '01 (52k miles and $11k) I took right off to hating the chrome everywhere and I think the 3 of us came up with monochrome body color all around the same time. Funny, I traded posts with Katshot's son who got the car, but got swallowed by work for years and lost track of errone.
WTH's this got to do with swaybars?
⬆ ⬆ ⬆ ⬆ ⬆ Yur nawt from 'round 'ese parts are yia............ We all bin carrien along like this fer decades now. :cool:
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I got a new mig welder over a year ago, but finishing the garage has kept me from playing with it. Along with some things planned for my tractors after learning and practicing welding, I also plan on sticking in a collection of the frame channel gussets as frequently discussed. It's been reported they are relatively easy to weld in for max. effectiveness using locations not requiring large-scale undercarriage disassembly. A rough graphic of the locations along the frame-rails along with an equally rough description of the gussets would be as much appreciated as it will be helpful for portraying to others how accessible and 'accomplishable' the mod is. Realizing of course many who contemplate the work would need the confidence in knowing they can farm the work out to a mom-n-pop shop or muffler chain with acceptably low risk of components or lines or 'xyz' getting damaged.
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It's almost impossible to do it wrong.
My wife would earnestly posit the inverse. And does. Perpetually. About everything.

Seriously,
I take it just 1/8" mild plate,
-a dozen thus total pcs.,
-most anywhere insertible along the length. = Thanks.
Finally discovered this, again. This time Bookmarked. There's tonnoS!TH in there:
Depending on dimensions , maybe more than that.

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