Swaybars?
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The ultimate in neutral sway bars for the heaviest D bodies still available are the 1 3/8" QA 1 front and Hotchkis 1 3/8" rear bars. Other rear bars from Hellwig and a chrome moly from QA 1 have more roll resistance than the Hotchkis even though its smaller. The QA 1 can be paired with the BMR 1 1/2" solid rear bar on a Fleetwood and you'll barely notice the oversteer potential until you drive it like a maniac. The Nolathane REV 003.0182 is a front solid 1 3/8". Sadly no 1 3/8" solid rear bar.
Dick Miller makes a wagon version
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Don't think it was ever a clearance issue with a factory wagon gussets
More a length issue as the lower arm mounts are further apart than sedan while the upper spacing remains the same.
ALL aftermarket front sway bars need this:
That is the Pro-Touring F-Body front frame brace .
It is not part of the suspension like the sway bars. It is a oem brain fart missing piece of the frame, sometimes called the chassis. OEM weak front frame rails BAD. Welded in brace for strong front frame rails GOOD.
The group purchase here long ago means lots of old timers already have this. The young? Probably not.
It is not part of the suspension like the sway bars. It is a oem brain fart missing piece of the frame, sometimes called the chassis. OEM weak front frame rails BAD. Welded in brace for strong front frame rails GOOD.
The group purchase here long ago means lots of old timers already have this. The young? Probably not.
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105 Posts
Sorry for my ignorance but what is the photo supposed to be showing?
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Confused, then, on the relation to aftermarket front sway bars.
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I guess this is what was confusing me. But I get your point now.
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When it comes to the LT1, or the 4L60E, much if not all of the ISSF is eager to improve on what GM left unaddressed.
When it comes to the frame, much of the ISSF is hesitant to improve on what GM left unaddressed, which means one never gets quite what they should from suspension upgrades.
About as succinct as I can put it.
When it comes to the frame, much of the ISSF is hesitant to improve on what GM left unaddressed, which means one never gets quite what they should from suspension upgrades.
About as succinct as I can put it.
I got a new mig welder over a year ago, but finishing the garage has kept me from playing with it. Along with some things planned for my tractors after learning and practicing welding, I also plan on sticking in a collection of the frame channel gussets as frequently discussed. It's been reported they are relatively easy to weld in for max. effectiveness using locations not requiring large-scale undercarriage disassembly. A rough graphic of the locations along the frame-rails along with an equally rough description of the gussets would be as much appreciated as it will be helpful for portraying to others how accessible and 'accomplishable' the mod is. Realizing of course many who contemplate the work would need the confidence in knowing they can farm the work out to a mom-n-pop shop or muffler chain with acceptably low risk of components or lines or 'xyz' getting damaged.
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For clarity in positioning, are you welding these pieces inside the C channel (face of the steel plate side to side with the car) or along the outside of it (face of the plate front to back of the car)? I'm trying to understand which direction of frame deflection is being reinforced.
Not any more.
Nolathane, Australian company, with new 35mm SOLID F+R sway bars on the way
Nolathane - 35mm Heavy Duty Front Sway Bar Kit – Nolathane USA
Rear soon.
Finally discovered this, again. This time Bookmarked. There's tonnoS!TH in there:
Depending on dimensions , maybe more than that.
Sway Bar Rate Calculator | GTSparkplugs
Simple calculator to determine Sway Bar Stiffnesswww.gtsparkplugs.com
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