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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To those that have done this before I have some small issues that I would like some direction on. First of all, the driveline angle changed in such a way that I will have to add some shims to correct it. That is not a problem in its self, but when I can hardly get the tubular cross-member under the trans mount, it becomes a huge issue. The bump stop on top of the transmission is fully pressed against the floor pan, so I really can't go any higher. That is one problem. Then while fit checking the trans mount, I torqued it to 30 ft-lbs, these are the two bolts that attach the mount to the cross-member, and one of them stripped out. Now it will not back out, so I will most likely have to cut the head of the bolt off. This isn't good because it will leave a partial amount of threads sticking out, causing more grief when I go to pull the cross-member since I can't lift it that high. I am going to e-mail Dan about it to see what he say. Does anyone know what model trans mount that is used with the tubular cross-member?

On your car, how close is the bump stop to the floor pan?

Has you transmission mount ever stripped out? If so, did you buy another? What did you buy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Update

Okay, so as I thought about it, the more pissed I became. So I went outside, and grabbed a carbide drill bit and drilled the head of the bolt off. Looking at the bolt, it was different from the other. It looked really cheap, no grade markings or anything. The other bolt was a 4.8, not great, but at least it was marked. So I am thinking that the threads of the bolt may have gave, and not the threads on the hole. I will try my best and drill the rest of the bolt out tomorrow to see if I can save the mount, if in fact the threads are not stripped.

Onto the drive line angle. I was messing around with it, and it is so tight, that I may not use any shims. The reason being is that I have adjustable upper control arms on the rear. So as long as I make sure that the two angles are the same, then I can rotate the rear downwards, a degree or two. That should cover everything.

Let me know what you think of this, or if you have any thoughts.

I am thinking about the driveline angle in the right way, correct?
 

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Sean-

Why didn't you get ahold of me :)

Now for your trans, remove the bumpstop on the top, you need to. Also with some installations it is required that you clearance the floor above the middle inspection plate, mine I didn't need to, but on the car I just did I had to. Every car sits different. I was able to get another inch or so out of the floor with a 2X4 and a mallet. I put an energy suspension mount in my car as well as the one that I did. they sit a bit taller than the mount that comes with the cross member and it comes with grade 8 bolts. I never had a mount hole strip on my though. You may have to use an easy out and get that bolt out, you may or may not of stripped out the mounting hole if so retap to the next size and replace the bolts, there is plenty of meat there to accomplish this.

Let me know how it turns out and if you need any other advice. Hope this helps.
 

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Ditto on the energy suspension and stripping bump stop from the top of the trans. I also had to grind a little off the tail shaft of the trans to clear the tube of the cross member. I believe the part I ground into is for the torque arm mounting on the F-body's. Eitherway it wasn't structural or functional material I removed.

- Brian
 

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I've also found that some cars need the bump stop removed from the trans and others don't...I guess it has to do with how the body mounts are doing at holding the car up off the frame.
 

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I've also found that some cars need the bump stop removed from the trans and others don't...I guess it has to do with how the body mounts are doing at holding the car up off the frame.
What are body mounts? I'm pretty sure mine left me a few years ago. I'm not really looking forward to this winter project. Ex-Wisconsin car, so I'm sure I'll break more off rather than unbolt.

- Brian
 

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Body mounts are the rubber bushings that are on top and within the frame on our cars to hold the body to the frame, they have a bolt that goes through the frame and the bushings and attach to the body.
Thanks, I was trying to be sarcastic. I have the bolts and washers in all the right spots but there is not a lotta rubber left between them. (210k on the clock)

- Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Body Bushings

Yeah, I started to look at the body bushing a little bit last night after I was able to bolt everything together. I will have to post a few pictures to tease everyone, as Mike already knows what my solution was.

As far as bushings, where is the best place to by the complete kit?
 

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1996 Caprice 9c1, 2018 Ram Laramie CC 4x4 EcoDiesel , '03 Ram 3500 Laramie Sport QC 4x4 Cummins
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You can see if any dealers have any left in stock. I was lucky enough to find one with a complete kit. I looked up the names of 5 of the biggest GM dealers in the states and lucked out on my second call. Energy Suspension may still carry them.
 

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Body Mount Bushings
Part Number: 3.4145
Manufacturer: Energy Suspension.
Color:(Learn More)
Black
Red
Price: $85.22

Availability: Stocked
Ships In: 24 Hours In the USA




http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3.4145#http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3.4145#http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3.4145#http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3.4145#http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3.4145#0


Body Mount Bushings
Part Number: 3.4145
Manufacturer: Energy Suspension.
Color:(Learn More)
Black
Red
Price: $85.22

This is what I used. They are firm in the ride department! Gives you a little more feel when taking corners, I can live with it! It was pretty easy to do, took me about 2-3 hrs to do them all. Good luck with your ride!
 

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Cut the floor if you have to, but unless the angle can be set about 0.5 degrees, you will get vibration at high speed. (and adjustable UCA will not fix this if the trans touches the body, or points down to low or the angle can't be achieved) High speed vibration will destroy u joints way too fast.
 

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Holy dig up an old thread LOL

scot- you should probably elaborate a little more on the .5 degrees for those on here that don't know. This angle can be an assumed as many different numbers. I would assume you are going on driveshaft angle, really when I set up pinion angle I am for this number for working angle or I should say the difference in working angles from the front u joints to the rear. The factory transmission output angle is around 3.5 to 4.0 degrees depending on engine and transmission mounts. In most regards and Ark knows this, the center of the transmission hump needs to be pushed up or "massaged" to accomodate the T56, most don't do it and get away with it, but the ones I have done, have needed this to make the trans output angle the same as factory.

great website here that helps
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/
 

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1996 Caprice 9c1, 2018 Ram Laramie CC 4x4 EcoDiesel , '03 Ram 3500 Laramie Sport QC 4x4 Cummins
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Let us know if you get any squeaks from those body mounts. Have a buddy that has a set in his '94 9C1,after all the snow was gone he started getting squeaks on our crappy roads. He did use plenty of the white lube,looks like he may have to try another lube. I was impressed how much firmer and in touch with the road his car has after this upgrade.
 

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