I have that clutch, and it's really smooth, light pedal, and will hold about anything. I'd definitely recommend the ceramic disks. (RXT)looks like you are putting in what should have been available from the factory...
and if you are making 400 + HP....don't f around on the clutch...get a McLeod Twin
I have a McLeod flywheel for that clutch extra. If you go that route let me know, I could save you some $.Wow $1k for one of those mcleods! But hey, I understand you get what you pay for!
actually the kit is over $1200 at JEGS, more elsewhere for the LT1...and yes you get what you pay for. . Billet FW and larger MC are included in kit.Wow $1k for one of those mcleods! But hey, I understand you get what you pay for!
I have an LT1 with an RXT PUSH clutch. I know if you already have an original T56 tranny you'll go with the pull, but there are other options, particularly if you're talking about a BUILT T56.actually the kit is over $1200 at JEGS, more elsewhere for the LT1...and yes you get what you pay for. . Billet FW and larger MC are included in kit.
If it is LT1 "pull" type the Twin has organic discs but I asume McLeod would build you cermaic disc if you wanted. The RST or RXT is for LS motors. The "Street twin" is for LT1 "pull" type
I have the organic discs and it drive smooth as a stock clutch but grabs hard if you dump it.
YOU can do this. It may seem daunting but Mike's step by step guide is great.I love this step by step manual...It is giving me the confidence to be able to tackle this project. That said, is there anyone in Northern California that wants to lend a hand when it comes time?!
Narc 9c1;3287657 I've been reading a lot that 4:10 gears are the way to go for the T56. However said:I had 3:73's in when I did my swap. They are "OK" and no issues using them. You most likely will find it bog in 1st, especially when starting up a hill. will not see 6th much
with that said IIRC Ed Runnin (Autocrosser) prefers 3:73 for AutoX
I run a stock 27" tire and switched to 4:10's.
So just drive it around and see what you think, you can do gears later if you don't like it
$400 for labor...or gears/reluctor/labor?The shop only wants $400 to do the gear swap, so it really isn't too bad.
$400 for labor...or gears/reluctor/labor?
$400 for labor alone is high.
Absolutely best thing that you can do. The latest revision Roger has it in there, at least I remember making sure it wasTip....once you have the car up on stands, before removeing anything, measure from the bottom of front yoke to ground. note this distance and once T56 is installed confirm you have the same measurement (assumeing you have not moved car since 1st taking the measurement). if not add/remove shims between trans and trans mount. i can't remember if Mike's instructions note this.
I use the HURST Pro Billet shifter with handle bolted to PS of shifter. For me the shift handle is perfect location. I moved my center console forward 1.5" to allow handle to be in middle of boot. Some use a bracket that comes with the F2B kit that off sets the shift lever back 2" which keeps the console in stock position.My trans came with a B&M ripper shifter but the stick is too far forward for me, what shifter, stick, boot and ring are you guys using for your swap.