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looks like you are putting in what should have been available from the factory...:)


and if you are making 400 + HP....don't f around on the clutch...get a McLeod Twin
I have that clutch, and it's really smooth, light pedal, and will hold about anything. I'd definitely recommend the ceramic disks. (RXT)




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Wow $1k for one of those mcleods! But hey, I understand you get what you pay for!
I have a McLeod flywheel for that clutch extra. If you go that route let me know, I could save you some $.


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Wow $1k for one of those mcleods! But hey, I understand you get what you pay for!
actually the kit is over $1200 at JEGS, more elsewhere for the LT1...and yes you get what you pay for. . Billet FW and larger MC are included in kit.

If it is LT1 "pull" type the Twin has organic discs but I asume McLeod would build you cermaic disc if you wanted. The RST or RXT is for LS motors. The "Street twin" is for LT1 "pull" type

I have the organic discs and it drive smooth as a stock clutch but grabs hard if you dump it.
 

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actually the kit is over $1200 at JEGS, more elsewhere for the LT1...and yes you get what you pay for. . Billet FW and larger MC are included in kit.

If it is LT1 "pull" type the Twin has organic discs but I asume McLeod would build you cermaic disc if you wanted. The RST or RXT is for LS motors. The "Street twin" is for LT1 "pull" type

I have the organic discs and it drive smooth as a stock clutch but grabs hard if you dump it.
I have an LT1 with an RXT PUSH clutch. I know if you already have an original T56 tranny you'll go with the pull, but there are other options, particularly if you're talking about a BUILT T56.
 

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I love this step by step manual...It is giving me the confidence to be able to tackle this project. That said, is there anyone in Northern California that wants to lend a hand when it comes time?!
 

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Thanks again for the time.
 

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I love this step by step manual...It is giving me the confidence to be able to tackle this project. That said, is there anyone in Northern California that wants to lend a hand when it comes time?!
YOU can do this. It may seem daunting but Mike's step by step guide is great.

Get yourself 4 good jackstands and a harbor freight tranny jack. On the stands get 2 that are tall for the front. I put mine on frame rail right near the front of the doors and 2 under my 3rd member holding it at the drive angle (see tip below). I have to use a block of wood on top of my floor jack to get the car high enough to the MAX height of these stands. You really want the car high enough so with the tranny (4L60 & T56) can roll out from under it

Tip....once you have the car up on stands, before removeing anything, measure from the bottom of front yoke to ground. note this distance and once T56 is installed confirm you have the same measurement (assumeing you have not moved car since 1st taking the measurement). if not add/remove shims between trans and trans mount. i can't remember if Mike's instructions note this.
 

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I started the T56 conversion on Friday afternoon and was turn-key by Sunday evening.

I worked solo, with my son helping me only during the actual tranny lift and install; he helped me in the balancing act vice gravity.

Got a top shelf, fantastic SPEC clutch - very affordable - but I'm not allowed to talk about it here.

....for chicken callin' reasons I still don't understand. So I now keep it private/to my self. Good luck in picking out the right clutch; with so many to choose from.

... and plz feel free to splain it to him Roger.... understand Holmes? [btw, my wagon is going to get 56'd - decision was made last weekend - entire SS drivetrain is going in this winter]

Good luck in your efforts - and be prepared for the joy-n-pain of PERMAGRIN:) A 1997 Impala SS with a T56 would have sold like hotcakes! - but no, GM had to have more trucks. So we buy mid-90's and restore. Better than the crap rolling off the lines today.
 

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^^^ I'm ready for the PERMAGRIN!!

I've read this manual many times over as I accumulate the parts for this swap. I've been reading a lot that 4:10 gears are the way to go for the T56. However, I just installed 3:73s and I want to know if I could get away with these gears for a while?

Would it just not be "as fun?" or would it bog my motor too much?
 

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I had 3:73's in when I did my swap. They are "OK" and no issues using them. You most likely will find it bog in 1st, especially when starting up a hill. will not see 6th much

with that said IIRC Ed Runnin (Autocrosser) prefers 3:73 for AutoX

I run a stock 27" tire and switched to 4:10's.

So just drive it around and see what you think, you can do gears later if you don't like it
 

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Thanks for that. I think I will drive it with the 3:73s for a little while. At least, until I can save up for the 4:10s. The shop only wants $400 to do the gear swap, so it really isn't too bad.
 

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$400 for labor...or gears/reluctor/labor?

$400 for labor alone is high.

Gears and labor. I'm not sure about the reluctor. Is that a specialty item like it is with the 373 gears?
 

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OK thanks, I wasn't sure if the 4:10 reluctor was an off-the-shelf item. I bought my 373 reluctor from Bob because I know it wasn't. I remember the guys who did my gears were impressed by the craftsmanship.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Tip....once you have the car up on stands, before removeing anything, measure from the bottom of front yoke to ground. note this distance and once T56 is installed confirm you have the same measurement (assumeing you have not moved car since 1st taking the measurement). if not add/remove shims between trans and trans mount. i can't remember if Mike's instructions note this.
Absolutely best thing that you can do. The latest revision Roger has it in there, at least I remember making sure it was ;)

Glad to see you are going forward with the conversion Narc, you won't be disappointed. :D:D:D:D
 

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T56 installed a couple of weeks ago with 4.10 gears and Eaton true trac, OH MAN this so much fun to drive. Thanks to 94MI9C1 for the guide and answering emails. My trans came with a B&M ripper shifter but the stick is too far forward for me, what shifter, stick, boot and ring are you guys using for your swap.
 

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My trans came with a B&M ripper shifter but the stick is too far forward for me, what shifter, stick, boot and ring are you guys using for your swap.
I use the HURST Pro Billet shifter with handle bolted to PS of shifter. For me the shift handle is perfect location. I moved my center console forward 1.5" to allow handle to be in middle of boot. Some use a bracket that comes with the F2B kit that off sets the shift lever back 2" which keeps the console in stock position.
 

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