[Narc 9c1]

I use the HURST Pro Billet shifter with handle bolted to PS of shifter. For me the shift handle is perfect location. I moved my center console forward 1.5" to allow handle to be in middle of boot. Some use a bracket that comes with the F2B kit that off sets the shift lever back 2" which keeps the console in stock position.

And is that a corvette boot?

 

[Narc 9c1]

Glad to see you are going forward with the conversion Narc, you won't be disappointed.

Thanks man, I'm chompin' at the bit to get this thing done. I need to sell a few more things before I can start it!

 

[6 speed V]

Here is my new and old shifter boot and cover. My bro did the swap years ago and now I have the car.

The all black boot was in the car, modded by someone on here, but just did not seem to work too well, the boot seemed small and always hung up going into reverse.



I work at a Boeing BBJ mod center, and had one of my sheet metal guys make up a nice alloy plate with a little bigger opening, then an interior guy did the covering and two-tone boot. My bro used the stock f-body shifter, and I ordered a stock hurst stalk without the anti vibe thing on it, and a threaded C6 Vette knob. I since have had the stalk cut down and re-threaded, and am using some foam under the shifter plate to cut down on some of the road noise.

 

[Choo]

Nice! My C5 boot too keeps on popping out of place.

 

[BALLSS]

And is that a corvette boot?

yes, came with my BBHP kit in 05.

 

[94MI9C1]

Nice 6 Speed V, that shift knob looks awful familiar.

If anyone is interested in a C6 knob like his or what is in my car, I have a couple extras that I could sell.

 

[6 speed V]

Thanks

Here is the finished product, shotrened the handle and added the SS logo.

Mike

 

[urbanegorilla]

When I did my conversion, I started with 3.73 gears and put about 1,000 miles on the car. I found it too sluggish off the line, and I was slipping the McLeod clutch too much.

So I replaced the 3.73's with 4.10's, and the car is now just right.

Kevin

 

[Narc 9c1]

I know it's been a while but I have been accumulating parts for this swap! One of the last pieces of the puzzle came in the mail today direct from bow tie overdrives! Gonna sell my 4l60e with the yank TC and that should buy my clutch!!!

 

[BALLSS]

Welcome to the dark side Narc...you will have Perma-Grin when you are done with the swap

Keep us posted on the swap and ask any ?'s along the way. Mikes guide is very detailed.

 

[Narc 9c1]

Welcome to the dark side Narc...you will have Perma-Grin when you are done with the swap

Keep us posted on the swap and ask any ?'s along the way. Mikes guide is very detailed.

Thanks! I've read the manual about 6 times. I feel ready!

 

[jking1118]

Thanks! I've read the manual about 6 times. I feel ready!

Nice. BEST. MOD. EVER!! I highly recommend people to read the manual at least twice before they start, and I mean really read and comprehend, not just skim. I didn't as closely as I should and it bit me a couple times while the car was on the lift. (Thanks Mike for the taking the Sunday phone calls BTW).

Also, do some more research on clutches. Local guy here is so fed up with clutch crap, he went a completely different way, then just threw in the towel. there appears to be something different with the "Valeo" pressure plates. They are now made "elsewhere," China we believe. What is happening is the engage/disengage point is moved up very high. I have a thread about this here on the issues I had. I have a nice, high dollar setup from American Powertrain, but their PP seems to be the same basic unit as all the other pull style. When local guy was fighting with his, he went and boutgh a brand new stock replacement clutch, and it had the exact same problem as mine - high engage/disengage point. it doesn't sound like that big of a deal, but it does make it harder to drive. He went with a very cool push style setup, and if I had known about, I would have done. There are a few differences in parts you need to make it work, so it does drive the costs up some, but he said it was hands down worth it. Also, I see in your sig you have 3.73's. Seriously consider 4.10's. The math/engineering behind it says it is the "right" gear.

Also, look through BALLSS thread on the Street Twin, especially if you are doing the F2B kit.

I put off doing this mod for over 2 years, probably longer because I was worried about how hard it would be. I am now kicking myself for not having those years with the car a 6 speed. There is nothing hard about this swap. It is work and a few spots are tough, but nothing is hard, especially with the manual guiding you.

Good luck. You will love this.

 

[jking1118]

Thanks! I've read the manual about 6 times. I feel ready!

Also, forgot to ask. What shifter will you run? And do you have a good driveshaft?

 

[BALLSS]

Also, look through BALLSS thread on the Street Twin, especially if you are doing the F2B kit.

.

Narc

with your H/C 355 you should consider a clutch other than a stock one. As Jonathan notes every LT1 "pull" clutch uses the "clone" (not Valeo) PP. A few (Doug Wood for example) did a "push" type so that can be done. IMHO after going through a few single disc clutches of various friction materials I finally coughed up the $ for a McLeod Street Twin. Should have done it when I went 383 H/C. It drives like a stock clutch but holds like no other single disc clutch I have used. You may have to "adjust" the "T" pivot stud length if you go Twin but some don't have to.

Also on the BTO X member I had to grind some off the T56 case for it to clear. YMMV

 

[jking1118]

Narc

with your H/C 355 you should consider a clutch other than a stock one. As Jonathan notes every LT1 "pull" clutch uses the "clone" (not Valeo) PP. A few (Doug Wood for example) did a "push" type so that can be done. IMHO after going through a few single disc clutches of various friction materials I finally coughed up the $ for a McLeod Street Twin. Should have done it when I went 383 H/C. It drives like a stock clutch but holds like no other single disc clutch I have used. You may have to "adjust" the "T" pivot stud length if you go Twin but some don't have to.

Also on the BTO X member I had to grind some off the T56 case for it to clear. YMMV

You know Roger, I was concerned about having to clearance the back of my trans for the BTO piece as well, but didn't have to. I bought it between a year to 2 years ago. Even with no shims on the mount. So Narc, just take note of this in the manual, and when you have the trans in place marking for the tunnel hole, put the x-member up there and verify if the extension housing for the rear torque arm bolt (from the f-body needs) needs clearance or not. It will save you possibly one extra install and removal. Your arms and back will thank you.

 

[HeavyT56]

I'm swapping out my T56 to race caprice this week and didn't know that my dash pretty much had to come out. I'm junking the other caprice so I don't care about ripping out wires and such. I just got to the clutch assembly plate today. Tomorrow will snap pics of location and try to get the tranny out too. Didn't read manual and am trying to download it for my tablet to have outside. Any tips?

 

[Narc 9c1]

Nice. BEST. MOD. EVER!! I highly recommend people to read the manual at least twice before they start, and I mean really read and comprehend, not just skim. I didn't as closely as I should and it bit me a couple times while the car was on the lift. (Thanks Mike for the taking the Sunday phone calls BTW).

Also, do some more research on clutches. Local guy here is so fed up with clutch crap, he went a completely different way, then just threw in the towel. there appears to be something different with the "Valeo" pressure plates. They are now made "elsewhere," China we believe. What is happening is the engage/disengage point is moved up very high. I have a thread about this here on the issues I had. I have a nice, high dollar setup from American Powertrain, but their PP seems to be the same basic unit as all the other pull style. When local guy was fighting with his, he went and boutgh a brand new stock replacement clutch, and it had the exact same problem as mine - high engage/disengage point. it doesn't sound like that big of a deal, but it does make it harder to drive. He went with a very cool push style setup, and if I had known about, I would have done. There are a few differences in parts you need to make it work, so it does drive the costs up some, but he said it was hands down worth it. Also, I see in your sig you have 3.73's. Seriously consider 4.10's. The math/engineering behind it says it is the "right" gear.

Also, look through BALLSS thread on the Street Twin, especially if you are doing the F2B kit.

I put off doing this mod for over 2 years, probably longer because I was worried about how hard it would be. I am now kicking myself for not having those years with the car a 6 speed. There is nothing hard about this swap. It is work and a few spots are tough, but nothing is hard, especially with the manual guiding you.

Good luck. You will love this.

Thanks for the tips! I've been working on cars my whole life but never anything really major and have to admit, the swap did at first (and to a certain extent still does) feel intimidating. This manual along with everyone's support on here will make this thing go by so much faster.

Also, forgot to ask. What shifter will you run? And do you have a good driveshaft?

A Hurst shifter came with the transmission and I was planning on trying it before I spend any more money.

My driveshaft is stock but I had it rebalanced with some new u joints when I did the 3:73. I read that the stock unit is ok to run with the T56(?)

 

[Narc 9c1]

You know Roger, I was concerned about having to clearance the back of my trans for the BTO piece as well, but didn't have to. I bought it between a year to 2 years ago. Even with no shims on the mount. So Narc, just take note of this in the manual, and when you have the trans in place marking for the tunnel hole, put the x-member up there and verify if the extension housing for the rear torque arm bolt (from the f-body needs) needs clearance or not. It will save you possibly one extra install and removal. Your arms and back will thank you.

Thanks for the heads up! Say this BTO unit feels a lot lighter than the stock x-member, any idea what the weight savings is?

 

[jking1118]

I....... Any tips?

Tips?
First, sit down, read and comprehend the manual at least twice before putting the first wrench on the car. I cannot stress this enough. (Unless you can afford a lot of frustration and the car down longer than it needs for this swap.

Second. Make 200% sure you have all the parts before you start.

Third. Read the manual at least twice before you start. Seriously.

Thanks for the tips! I've been working on cars my whole life but never anything really major and have to admit, the swap did at first (and to a certain extent still does) feel intimidating. This manual along with everyone's support on here will make this thing go by so much faster.





A Hurst shifter came with the transmission and I was planning on trying it before I spend any more money.

My driveshaft is stock but I had it rebalanced with some new u joints when I did the 3:73. I read that the stock unit is ok to run with the T56(?)

I was right where you are Narc, except I have done some huge car projects in my time. I was still worried about it. I was very close to just paying someone to do it for me. Now i am glad i did it myself. Just make sure you are prepared with knowledge and the parts before you start. Local guys did a swap for a club member years ago in one very long day. Yes, one day. Also, pull at a minimum the driver's seat, preferably both fronts seats, just so you have room in there to move around and lay flat working under the dash. It's 6 nuts per seat.

Which Hurst? The factory one with the stamped steel base or an aluminum base one?

You could be OK with the drive shaft. Length will be fine. Vibration is the issue, and it doesn't care if it is the auto or the manual in that regard, DS speed is dictated by the rear gear and tire size. Just pay close attention to Mike's pointers in the manual on the driveline angles/measurements.

 

[BALLSS]

My driveshaft is stock but I had it rebalanced with some new u joints when I did the 3:73. I read that the stock unit is ok to run with the T56(?)

if you don't have any vibes now with your 3:73/4L60E and do the T56 swap it will be the same.....IF you maintain the same DL angle. If you go 4:10...you may find (read likely) that you now have vibrations and need a larger diameter (rotational mass thing) and better balanced DS (DENNYS) and if so, IMHO, get 1350 yokes for it. This means you will need to change your pinion yoke but the Dennys DS will come with that if you order that option

Tip: before you unbolt anything and once the car is raised up to do the swap just measure your motor angle with one of those magnetic angle finders. Put it on the intake manifold and document whatever angle that is. You want the same once T56 is in. This may involve adding/deleting the shims that are on the car now (between tranny mount and tranny). You can also measure from the front u joint down to ground also to have a 2nd point of reference. Of course the car will need to be on stands and not moved so the variables of measurement are constant between the 4L60 and T56 position.

On the swap itself it did for me also seem intimidating. I have wrenched on cars since I was a teenager with my 1st car (57 chevy and I converted it from Powerglyde to Muncie 4 speed)) but do not claim to be a mechanic. Back in 2005 there really was only the BBHP "kit" or fabricate something on my own. I read the 32 page instructions BBHP had SEVERAL times and did the swap myself in my garage with car on jack stands (note get large jack stands to raise car high enough to get the 4L60 out and absolutely buy the harbor freight tranny jack). It is a very satisfying accomplishment and one job in my opinion you want to do yourself so you know every detail and can make the decisions of "do I cut here, do I mount this thing this way, etc. your self. Fortunately enough of us who have done it are here to answer ?'s and without a doubt Mikes effort in authoring the install manual is priceless and a very clear map on how to do this. In the end you will have a ride that is way more fun, IMHO, to drive and will function/look as if factory installed if done correctly.