[94MI9C1]

if you don't have any vibes now with your 3:73/4L60E and do the T56 swap it will be the same.....IF you maintain the same DL angle. If you go 4:10...you may find (read likely) that you now have vibrations and need a larger diameter (rotational mass thing) and better balanced DS (DENNYS) and if so, IMHO, get 1350 yokes for it. This means you will need to change your pinion yoke but the Dennys DS will come with that if you order that option

Tip: before you unbolt anything and once the car is raised up to do the swap just measure your motor angle with one of those magnetic angle finders. Put it on the intake manifold and document whatever angle that is. You want the same once T56 is in. This may involve adding/deleting the shims that are on the car now (between tranny mount and tranny). You can also measure from the front u joint down to ground also to have a 2nd point of reference. Of course the car will need to be on stands and not moved so the variables of measurement are constant between the 4L60 and T56 position.

On the swap itself it did for me also seem intimidating. I have wrenched on cars since I was a teenager with my 1st car (57 chevy and I converted it from Powerglyde to Muncie 4 speed)) but do not claim to be a mechanic. Back in 2005 there really was only the BBHP "kit" or fabricate something on my own. I read the 32 page instructions BBHP had SEVERAL times and did the swap myself in my garage with car on jack stands (note get large jack stands to raise car high enough to get the 4L60 out and absolutely buy the harbor freight tranny jack). It is a very satisfying accomplishment and one job in my opinion you want to do yourself so you know every detail and can make the decisions of "do I cut here, do I mount this thing this way, etc. your self. Fortunately enough of us who have done it are here to answer ?'s and without a doubt Mikes effort in authoring the install manual is priceless and a very clear map on how to do this. In the end you will have a ride that is way more fun, IMHO, to drive and will function/look as if factory installed if done correctly.

Quoted for truth. All the other comments are very good advice.

Also please if anyone needs advice or help over the phone or whatever, please do not hesitate to send me an email, scroll over my user name at the top left and click it, scroll down to send email.

Due to life events I am not on here as much anymore and always feel bad when I get on here finally and there is a myriad of questions that I could of possibly answered to help out.

Also just so everyone is aware, the manual that I authored for this is all over several sites for download, not any I authorized to do so, but that is to be expected. Oh well.

Anyway, NARC you know you will love your car after. There are many times that I look at my car in the garage and I am like, I should just sell this thing, just taking up room right now, I could use the money, whatever. Then I go for a spirited drive in it and it changes my mind, EVERY damn time LOL

 

[Narc 9c1]

^^^ this post put a smile on my face because I have done the same exact thing many times. I forget how much fun I have in it if it sits for longer than a week. A short drive is more than enough to combat even the strongest of thoughts to sell it. Thanks for the help!

 

[jking1118]

Narc, I added some clutch info here http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=234562&page=2

to add to my earlier comments about clutch selection research.

Also, I agree with Roger. If you get the Denny's shaft, upgrade to the 1350 u-joints. The billet yoke for the rear is about $100 added to the bill, but I think it is worth it.

 

[Impii celeritate]

Hey all I figured I would just put up another thread. I changed the T56 manual as for some reason and I didn't know this til today, the inserted pictures sucked. Anyway sorry about that, I revised the format so it is a smaller file as well.

download from here http://www.4shared.com/folder/DsCj7jdE/Impala_and_Caprice_mods.html

I was holding onto the password and giving it out to people that pm'd me, but the hell with it, it looks like I maybe getting a job where I am going to be uber busy and I may not be on here much.

Password is 9196bbody

People that have downloaded this or have old versions may want to redownload, it is 10% the size of the original.


I always put this disclaimer in, mod to be done at your own risk. As well as if the manual helped you out at all and you feel like donating cool, my paypal is mfetcko at charter.net , you don't have to by any means, but anything is appreciated. I have kept track of the downloads as well as requests, they are over 400 now, with very little donation. It just takes alot of time to put stuff like this together.

Anyway all in all I hope it helps people out. Take care.

Mike

Hi Mike,

So, I feel like I'm a little late to the dance. But I showed up in a pretty cool car, so at least i have that going for me. I tried your link, but the file isn't there. Is there any way I could get your T56 manual from you directly?

Please let me know,

~Justin

 

[lornejay1]

I had the same problem and Mike sent me this link,he doesn't always see posts here.

Good link to have,hope it helps.

Lorne.

http://www.grail-ss.com/TechDocuments.htm

 

[SimplyTheBeSS]

I had the same problem and Mike sent me this link,he doesn't always see posts here.

Good link to have,hope it helps.

Lorne.

http://www.grail-ss.com/TechDocuments.htm

That's a GREAT link to have. Maybe I'm biased

 

[Impii celeritate]

I had the same problem and Mike sent me this link,he doesn't always see posts here.

Good link to have,hope it helps.

Lorne.

http://www.grail-ss.com/TechDocuments.htm

Thank you, it's sweet!

 

[Imkaneforever]

Coming in hot from 2021. I'm thinking of swapping to a manual in my 96 impala ss and am so happy to have found this forum and all this bountiful information. Thank you, everyone, for your contributions and for enabling such swaps to be done on your shoulders. - Kane

 

[GRSWLD]

I sincerely apologize for reviving an old thread here, but long time lurker, first time poster... I had bookmarked this thread as I am doing a T56 swap on both my RMW and 95SS this winter and am having a bit of a panic as the grail-ss site appears to be down!

Does anyone have the PDF's for the swap tutorial? and any other content that was hosted on grail-ss for that matter?

regards from MN.
Andy

 

[toonwarrior]

I uploaded the one from mike fetco, also the one from three pedals even though theirs is for their propriety pedals

Google Drive: Sign-in

Access Google Drive with a Google account (for personal use) or Google Workspace account (for business use).

drive.google.com

If the drive link doesn't work try this:

TAISSO/t56 install guide.pdf at main · mubashirdesign/TAISSO

Contribute to mubashirdesign/TAISSO development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

TAISSO/Three-Pedals-91-96-GM-B-Body-Pedal-Instructions-100119.pdf at main · mubashirdesign/TAISSO

Contribute to mubashirdesign/TAISSO development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

Google Drive: Sign-in

Access Google Drive with a Google account (for personal use) or Google Workspace account (for business use).

drive.google.com

I also uploaded a spreadsheet with some links to swap threads here and there:

t56 links

Sheet2 Items Needed F2B KIT,<a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/304564529044?hash=item46e975e794:g:MSAAAOxyNo9Sp535">https://www.ebay.com/itm/304564529044?hash=item46e975e794:g:MSAAAOxyNo9Sp535</a> F2B Flywheel dust cover ,From the same seller, comes on sale from time to time T56 Crossmember,Dan f...

docs.google.com

I also uploaded a youtube vid that I think carries some tidbits that might help, not really a swap video though.

 

[96 Black]

I have the guide and other info from past posts by you and others, but thanks for the spreadsheet and vid. And I've had an LS- style setting in the garage for 15 years that had been intended for my son's '88 MCSS, but he actually preferred just a built-up PerformaBuilt. So, the F2B pedals, Tick TO, B&M Bellhousing and Pro5 shifter all get to go to mine! The Auburn is toast, and the car is already on stands with a broke tranny I rebuilt ages ago. So it looks like a matter of getting the rear redone, and to check if my P71 MMC DS will be a direct swapover. I believe the only big pieces left to round up are the ClearImage cx-member, Bob Shirley's reluctor and a clutch.

 

[toonwarrior]

I have the guide and other info from past posts by you and others, but thanks for the spreadsheet and vid. And I've had an LS- style setting in the garage for 15 years that had been intended for my son's '88 MCSS, but he actually preferred just a built-up PerformaBuilt. So, the F2B pedals, Tick TO, B&M Bellhousing and Pro5 shifter all get to go to mine! The Auburn is toast, and the car is already on stands with a broke tranny I rebuilt ages ago. So it looks like a matter of getting the rear redone, and to check if my P71 MMC DS will be a direct swapover. I believe the only big pieces left to round up are the ClearImage cx-member, Bob Shirley's reluctor and a clutch.

Awesome, to get the 4.10 reluctor I had to buy it through three pedals which they source through Bob Shirley.

What master cylinder are you going with?

 

[BALLSS]

BBHP #132. Did the swap in 2005. IMHO best mod I have done to my 96

 

[96 Black]

Awesome, to get the 4.10 reluctor I had to buy it through three pedals which they source through Bob Shirley.

What master cylinder are you going with?

Thanks for the lead for the reluctor to 3Pedals. And you made me look. I had it slightly wrong, it's a Tick MC with Rhino TO bearing with .125 spacer the PO used on his prior installation so it might help save me some head-scratching with setup. I got a good amount of the tranny with its associated parts from a once-frequent poster on here.

The circle track stroker I had gotten the son for his MC SS had been built on a 1-pc. rear main seal 990 block, but using a 2-pc. RMS adapter. I think the premise was more plentiful & cheaper forged rotating assembly, I recall it dealt me some fits with measured stack ups. About the time we switched thinking to staying with an automatic I had just discovered the 1/2" scattershield spacer supposedly to mate LS- to LT-. I've forgotten more than I ever knew about all the detail, so digging in again will be actually enjoyable.

 

[toonwarrior]

Nice! With the f2bkit I'm not sure the tick master will work atleast without any modification.

@Sshockr seems to have gone through that ordeal below, another link for me to add to the spreadsheet

T-56 Master Cylinder Options

Is anybody running the Mcleod 139305 F-body Adjustable Master on the F2B brackets? I can tell you the Tick Performance F-body adjustable master doesn't fit with the F2B brackets. The aluminum adapter and the top flange of the master cylinder hit the brake booster. Also they pre assemble the...

www.impalassforum.com

 

[96 Black]

Hoo boy... I said I had forgotten more than I ever knew about the project after all this time. I went back and (more carefully) re-read the email exchange between the seller and I at the time of purchase. I at least correctly picked up the part where we had discussed the negative talk on the LS- Forum about the oem MC. But I had to go back earlier to find that he sold me everything with the oem MC, but that he also confirmed he had done the 'Drill Mod' and used that RAM spacer under the TO bearing for more proper release. So, I'm probably in good shape, but still appreciate the heads-up if there's an issue along with leads on the 'not Tick' options with the F2B pedals he sent me.

Haha only 22 years on here and this forum is STILL paying off in spades.

 

[95wagon]

If you can machine or have machined an angled spacer , I would be looking at mounting a Tilton "76" series master on your F2B adapter.

 

[Sshockr]

My final set up was a McLeod LT1 Push conversion and 7/8" Tilton Master.

-Brian