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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Auto trans removal wasn't too bad to remove.

My advice here would be to remove the exhaust complete so it doesn't get in the way especially if you're doing it on the ground. I didn't do that and it definitely was a pain to work around.

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F2B Kit pedal adapter marked for cut on the firewall. My advice here is to drop the steering column and tuck/zip tie everything out of the way. I didn't do that, was a pain to work around.

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F2B Bracket in, a good cutter will make this job a lot easier, I didn't have that so it was a pain to cut... think there is a recurring theme here LOL.

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Here's what the F-body pedals look like after cutting, only 2 cuts are required. You can see all the switches here.

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Before you install the pedals you'll need to relocate the convenience center with the f2b kit bracket (rectangle shaped one). And you'll have to cut the metal bracket located that's either right above the steering column or below it, I forget. Much easier to do when it's out of the car, I didn't do that, which was a pain to work around....

Now is the install of the bracket that the end of f-body pedals attaches to at the top, this levels the pedals out correctly.
I failed to follow step 33 on the f2b kit instructions and this ended up causing a lot of confusion for me.. So read it carefully
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Pedals are in

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For some reason I can't remember the wiring even though I just did it recently.

Anyways here are the part numbers I used and bought off rockauto.
ACDELCO PT357 {#12102690}
ACDELCO PT733 {#12126463}
SKP SKTX3A (VSS)
SKP SKS712 (Reverse Light Connector)

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To find the starter wire that the neutral safety switch connector should splice into, there is a thick bundle of wires taped up going up the column. Open the tape up a bit and see if you can find it, the starter wire is thicker than any of other yellow wires under there, it's also tied in with a thick brown and pink wire so don't accidently mistake it and cut the airbag wire.

The reverse light switch goes up the column, follow the green and pink wires in the bundle of wires going up and you should find it. I routed some wire under the carpet to the shifter hole and spliced in the reverse light connector that plugs into the transmission.

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VSS is pretty straight forward.


Part two next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Now for the clutch hydraulics.
Buy a prebled unit from summit/rock auto to save time having to bleed or run into used slave/master cylinder issues, I didn't do that.

I tried to install the master cylinder without removing the inner fender, bad idea and a waste of time. Take out the inner fender to make it easy.

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This is the side PoV with inner fender removed. Much easier to get installed (brake booster comes out a bit to get easier clearance)
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Slave cylinder routed below
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In terms of trans installation:

My shifter hole cut looked something like the black square by the time I was done.

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Using the RDE mechanical forward facing lockout I was able to hammer the trans tunnel side for enough clearance. With the regular reverse lockout solenoid you have to cut pretty heavily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For the trans install itself I think this video does it pretty well, almost exactly the same steps for the install here.


That being said this was one of the hardest parts, lining up the dowel pins onto the bellhousing was insanely hard for me by myself. My trans jack failed half way through also and that caused delays.

Hammer out the trans tunnel a lot, I feel like the guide didn't emphasize that but ideally you don't want the trans hitting the tunnel and it will most likely hit it at the rubber part on the top of the trans if it isn't done enough.

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But once that's in it's just a matter of connecting everything back together.

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Still figuring out how to go about the center console install. Shifter is facing the opposite way since if I flip it I feel like it comes too close to the seat (I sit closer to the steering wheel due to being short)..

In terms of places I think I messed up, was torqueing the bellhousing properly and the transmission to the bellhousing properly. I also had a flywheel resurfaced but I think I should have just bought a new one as I have no idea if the resurface was done properly. I also should have went for the mcleod twin clutch as it supposedly is much smoother than a single disc clutch

I was initially running into a ton of clutch chatter and reverse was really difficult but once I got 4.10s installed by the shop it became much more manageable. I do have the can of marble noise so one day when I go address the clutch chatter I can possibly get that addressed also.

I posted a mini guide on adjusting the speedo but now I have to figure out how I can make the car run better. I do want to dyno tune it but at this stage I think the car just needs to be driven for a bit.
 

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You never followed up on your " won't say in gear"
Anything to do with no shifter bushing in this picture ?

" CAN OF MARBLES"
If you are referring at idle with foot off clutch , and driving, that is usualy lack of main, counter, and 5-6 shaft preload
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You never followed up on your " won't say in gear"
Anything to do with no shifter bushing in this picture ?

" CAN OF MARBLES"
If you are referring at idle with foot off clutch , and driving, that is usualy lack of main, counter, and 5-6 shaft preload
That was on the shifter itself. When I went to get the 4.10s installed I had the guy check it out and he did say that the shifter wasn't tightened down properly so he went and adjusted it.

Now I can physically hear it click/pop in but I still have to hold it in. It's much more manageable now so for now once I get the center console addressed, tach installed and gears broken in I will get back to that.

Didn't realize there was preload settings that needed to be adjusted for. Every thread I read mentioned bad throwout bearing which didn't make sense since mines is brand new.

In terms of what I know I didn't do properly is one of the bellhousing bolts I didn't torque to spec (actually forgot about it when throwing it back together). It's in there tight but just not to spec.

The trans bolts to the bellhousing, all the bolts where the same size but there was two at the bottom that would just spin in place so I threw threadlocker on there so that's another possible source. I triple checked the sizing and it was correct.

When I went to get the flywheel machined the guy just did it, no questions asked so no idea if it was done properly.

And now preload is there too.

So yea I pretty much have to take it out again and redo it to which at this point in time i actually can't because the jack and jackstands are being used for another car.

I'll talk to the guy at the shop and see what the charge is. If it isn't too bad I'll take the hit especially if they can address it properly. If not I'll get the car back on stands and re-do within the next month.
 

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When I said preload, I was speaking of transmission internal bearing preloads.
Something that is done inside the transmission when it is assembled or rebuilt with selective shims under bearing cups.

They are notorious for not being tight enough new ( @#$$# the published specs )
When they reach operating temperature , they get even looser.
Add a few miles and they get pretty " chuckley"
The hand full of T56s I have redone, are pretty quiet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When I said preload, I was speaking of transmission internal bearing preloads.
Something that is done inside the transmission when it is assembled or rebuilt with selective shims under bearing cups.

They are notorious for not being tight enough new ( @#$$# the published specs )
When they reach operating temperature , they get even looser.
Add a few miles and they get pretty " chuckley"
The hand full of T56s I have redone, are pretty quiet.

Ahh crap. Well I'll enjoy the car for what it is right now. Come winter season when the car is sitting I'll see what's up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
LMAO, more like a do what I say, not what I do explanation. Glad ya got it in, and hope ya figure out all the gremlins.
Haha yea, when it comes to physical work I have no finesse, always end up doing something wrong or the hard way. I know it goes away with repetition and learning from mistakes so hopefully whatever I do next is done more smoothly.
 

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NICE! I test drove a T56 9c1 once way back in maybe 2009 when looking for a B body daily driver to replace my Nissan Sentra SE-R when I realized I probably would never get my 96 back together . I couldn't stand driving a ricer anymore LOL. The car was a total POS but the 6 speed alone made it the most fun B body I have ever driven.

Sometimes I still wish I did one in my 96, but it's just a lot of power to try to put to the ground with a manual. I'm sure it would be 10x more fun though.
 

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Also thumbs up for the detailed write up. Something you don't see much any more, especially with everyone on Facebook groups these days. Actual knowledge and experience like this rarely gets passed around in such detail and like you pointed out, sometimes the instructions provided (if any) for some of these mods could use some clarification.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

Just a short drive vid, there is a whine coming from the rear-end but can't tell if it's an improperly installed rear-end of if that is normal for 4.10 motive gears/detroit trutrac.

Regardless I'll show it to the guy who installed it and see if they think it's an issue or not.
 

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OP

now that you have "rehearsed" the install, the next few times will be way easier.

The author of F2B 411, Mike, did a very through job on instructions so best to read, re-read, to make it easier. Several pics in it are from my swap.

For those who will be doing it and want to have the center tunnel cut done easy...put trans in without clutch or FW with a couple of the bolts. Hold tail shaft up against tunnel and mark outline with a sharpie. drill 1/4" hole from under car at each corner after pulling trans back out and use a sabre saw from up top to cut the hole.

On tunnel clearance. Stock tunnel is fine "if" you remove the rubber stop on top of T56.

Regular reverse lock out fits easily under stock tunnel if you use a ball end hammer to pound it out some, No big deal. When you do the step of marking the shifter hole cut and push trans up the RLO will leave a witness mark on tunnel to show where it needs to be pounded out some

OP, not sure if that is rear gear whine....but if so not good. IDK if "adjusting" (read re-shim diff) fixes it as the wear pattern has set on on gears. Motive gears otherwise are very good gears. Made in Italy

BTW, McLeod Twin clutch is smooth engagement but any single disc organic disc clutch will be smooth as butter. It's single disc clutches with ceramic or Kevlar "puc" that are prone to chatter

Marbles in can was often a issue. I bought a new T56 from D&D so did not have the issue. If your T56 is 99 or newer made it has carbon blocker rings so synthetics are fine. Redline D4 may resolve your noise unless you have internal trans issue as Gerry notes

I assume you did not pull trans in with bolts the last 1/4"-1/2" because you could not push it in further....if so you likely FU pilot bearing which can/would cause a noise

IMHO a T56 in a Bbody is best mod ever
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Latest updates:

Turns out the whine is coming from the trans and not the rear-end as far as I can tell. Based on what I've read once I properly install the center console it'll mute out a lot of the noises coming through the shifter hole. Did have a weird chirping noise come up today but it's been so inconsistent I can't really narrow it down just yet.

I ended up having to get the reverse re-built on the t56, got the flywheel re-checked and all the bolts and stuff torqued properly, ended up being a hefty bill but that was the risk I took by buying used. The rebuilt also reduced the can of marble noise to a little putter at idle. The tools that I needed to pull the trans out again was in use for another car so really had no choice in attempting it myself.

Right now I think the plan is just to drive it till the season ends and then address other items.

Currently on the stock driveshaft which honestly I have no issue with since I'm not really driving it at the higher rpms anyways. But I will be getting one built by a shop here rather than from Denny's because my shipping cost will literally be half the cost of the DS itself. Just gotta scrounge around for the specs of the stock DS.


My wooden console not complete yet, have to do some adjustments to make the hole bigger. I tried using aluminum but I could not get a clean cut for the life of me.

Table Grey Wood Automotive design Automotive tire


The issue with the console is the short throw shifter I bought off tick is "short". It works perfectly for me since I am short but having a few friends sit inside it they all were squished into the dash :ROFLMAO:.

It'll be just a ball floating around some leather in the console.

Car Vehicle Gear shift Steering wheel Motor vehicle


I've located a z28 canadian spec cluster also, just got to go pick it up and mail it to gary to get it modified and sent back with the harness.
 
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