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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I Bought my first 1995 SS last week and have been slowly trying to get up to par. I did pass Maryland State Inspection but barely.

There is a lot of rust under the car and under the carpet. How do I get rid of it and prevent it from coming back. Is there a certain type of rust inhibitor that I should use. I want to knock it when I change the exhaust and tank straps next week.
 

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Grind or sand off all the loose rust then use a product called POR-15 over the rust. It's supposed to stop rust and works pretty good. It will give you a nice glossy finish as well. But make sure you get as much rust off as possible or it will bubble under the POR and come back. Also make sure the top is on the can tight when your not using the POR because this stuff is pretty expensive and it will harden up. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It helps greatly. Thank you.

Grind or sand off all the loose rust then use a product called POR-15 over the rust. It's supposed to stop rust and works pretty good. It will give you a nice glossy finish as well. But make sure you get as much rust off as possible or it will bubble under the POR and come back. Also make sure the top is on the can tight when your not using the POR because this stuff is pretty expensive and it will harden up. Hope this helps.
 

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I dont really like POR-15 personally. Having tried POR-15 and Eastwoods rust encapsulator, I like the eastwood rust removal/ prevention products alot better.

What I would do?

Wire wheel all the loose scale. Then use some rust inhibitor that kills rust and turns it into black oxide.. Then, lightly skuff the finish, Prime with a good expoxy primer , Then paint. (an option is even getting some zinc spray to spray over the black oxide steel) Oh yea.. Clean all the areas your painting good with some alcohol.

When I was on a budjet I used rustoleum's rusty metal primer (I like the outdoor black colored primer instead of the Clay colored primer they offer) and then topcoated it twice with rustoleam semi gloss paint and it held up better than spots I used POR-15 in.. (I did my truck like that, Its still holding up awesome for 2 winters. )
 

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What part of MD are you in?
 

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I dont really like POR-15 personally. Having tried POR-15 and Eastwoods rust encapsulator, I like the eastwood rust removal/ prevention products alot better.

What I would do?

Wire wheel all the loose scale. Then use some rust inhibitor that kills rust and turns it into black oxide.. Then, lightly skuff the finish, Prime with a good expoxy primer , Then paint. (an option is even getting some zinc spray to spray over the black oxide steel) Oh yea.. Clean all the areas your painting good with some alcohol.

When I was on a budjet I used rustoleum's rusty metal primer (I like the outdoor black colored primer instead of the Clay colored primer they offer) and then topcoated it twice with rustoleam semi gloss paint and it held up better than spots I used POR-15 in.. (I did my truck like that, Its still holding up awesome for 2 winters. )
Brian, The POR-15 Process works well when:
1. The surfaces are prepped correctly per POR-15's instructions
2. The surfaces are finish coated with por-15 "Top-Coat".

Here's some of the pics I posted in my POR-15 Thread that was lost in the forum data loss......:(

The entire Frame was 1st stripped of the factory wax coating with "Easy Off" oven cleaner (DONT get it on the paint of the car!). Then prepped with POR-15 "Metal Ready, washed clean, then coated with POR-15 Black and POR-15 Top coat to finish it.

The underbody is coated with 3M Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating (16 oz. Part No. 03584)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...ional-Grade;-3M_7141477-P_N3280_T|GRP2050____


POR-15 and 3M Undercoating








 

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rust

Hey, I just completed this project no more than a few weeks ago. I friend from work turned me on to a product called rust-mort. It is a liquid that can be brushed on or sprayed on, it comes in 1 quart containers pn-69504. I purchased 2 bottles from gipe automotive, or any auto paint supply company. It cost me about 22.xx and some change for each quart. It is very strong, wear gloves and a mask, with plenty of fresh air. After loosing the large scale rust and scuffing the light rust, spray the hell out of the areas and let it soak in. Personally I let mine sit for a week. Remember this stuff is strong if you are working over concrete, use plastic to cover it, or this stuff will eat into it, ask me how I know? The treated areas turn black, and it chemically bonds with the rust, blocking air from getting to it. After this product dried I coated the areas(frame,floorpans) with rubberized undercoating, roughly 8-10 cans. Autozone had them on sale 2 for 7. All other areas I used rusteolum gloss black paint. I used the undercoating route because I plan on turning my 95 into a daily street cruiser. I really don't see alot of these modded in my area so I have to represent the b-bodies, in western ky.
 

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so the undercoating you buy at the part store like the 3m stuff isnt real "out of place" looking?
id like to do the floorpan of the car a flatter black then the frame rails which i want shinier...so whats the options?
 
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