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Not sure what a real one costs but having a mill and a lathe , I did my own
Having machine tools around is great. Nice to be able to fab up that little part you need instead of spending an hour driving around trying to find it.
193578
 

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What would you do? After 9 years, my trusty Milwaukee M18 cordless drill transmission has decided it only wants to stay in low, and not shift to high. (I know, the irony of a transmission guy having transmission problems and asking the forum for advice)

Are the new brushless drills that much better? Worth getting? Or just suck it up and disassemble this one to figure out what's jammed?
 

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Raise hands every male with at least one gonad who considers it a personal affront to even consider letting a lowly handheld power tool decide to quit operating perfectly without first dissecting it to confirm its not just some simple crud or loose / wore out contact that can be attended to both revalidate manly mechanical dominance, along with forcing another decade of drilling hard labor under your rule?

If it is something terminal at least it can be plundered for interesting useful shiny objects to add to the horde of 'maybe someday' supply. Then the rest to be unceremoniously cast into the trash as a brutal lesson to all the other tools considering much insurrection.

Or, blow the $200-300 and instantly sadden thinking all the other stuff you coulda' had instead.
 
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Thank you for the well worded editorial 96 Black.

Check out Milwaukee's on line presence. They may have sub system parts to replace common wear parts. I know Makita has repair parts but like anything there is a trade off point where it costs too much or you might experience another break down. I think Milwaukee has Rep trucks that go to job sites so parts may be available.

After 9 years, my trusty Milwaukee M18 cordless drill transmission has decided it only wants to stay in low//Are the new brushless drills that much better? Worth getting?
If it has lasted 9 years and you liked what it did you may not need the best newest high torque product. If you do need new you might find a smaller lighter tool with the same torque and speed as the old one. Lighter weight tools=less fatigue.
 

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I laughed when the John Deere mechanic pulled out a 3/8" M18 brushless impact to remove some bolts on my grader. I was a true believer by the time he finished the job. I don't know how much better they are than the brushed, but that is what I am moving up to after my weak Bauer one dies. Of course, I would take it apart first.
 

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Had a similar thing - my non fuel 1/2" M18 drill let some smoke out and there was a bright red glow in the vents after 1-2 seconds of running unloaded. Couldn't talk myself into buying a new drill alone for $200 and really didn't need the extra tools in one of the kits for $300. Found the parts list on Milwaukee's website and $21 later for a new armature and it runs like new again.

I've about 20 minutes in the whole thing (not including lusting for new tools :)).
 

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This is a BEWARE! I was working on my engine and started to prime the oil system. I almost immediately got 50 PSI. Ok, that's cool. The driver side rocker arms flowed oil. I looked and saw that the passenger side was dry. What's going on here. I continued to try to get oil flowing. Nothing. So I came in the house and typed in my problem. Less that one minute and I had this. Pit Stop: Chevy V8 Right-Hand Valvetrain Not Getting Oil
I have the same primer tool as the Speedmaster. It's a common type and sold by more than a few big names.
Two things about this I am again reminded of.
1. Research before you buy.
2. Research is easy and avoids having to ask and wait for an answer.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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A little update on my last post. Yesterday, Friday, I placed an order for a Stef's oil pump primer. Well it arrived this afternoon, Saturday. Thanks Summit. I went out to give it a whirl and I got 70 PSI this time and the passenger side started to pump oil. I'm getting oil out of the adapter for relocating the oil filter and will have to deal with that. I put brass plugs in the line fittings. I wanted to put the valve covers on and the Fel Pro gaskets are a little shy of fitting. I put both gaskets over a valve cover and will put them out in the sun. Research showed that this is a common problem and people said they had to stretch them for a proper fit. Little by little.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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So my trusty Central Hydraulic floor jack has left a puddle of fluid on my shop floor. Its been a good 10 years. Assuming its not just the valve backed out too far, the question is any recommendations on a decent floor jack to replace it with? I already checked Craigslist for used Lincolns in my area and the prices on new ones are still not in my price range. <$200 would be preferred.

-Brian
 

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Any reason you can't just disassemble it and figure out what size the o-rings are?
 

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+1 ^^^^^^^^^

After about 10 years my '80's Lincoln didn't leak but started fading and NAPA wanted about 2/3 the price of a new one to rebuild mine. So I bought a new one (still American co./American made full blown castings back then). I got a $30 rebuild kit and rebuilt the first one, which went in pretty easy and lasted until 2 years ago (30 years not too damn shabby eh). The rebuild kits have gotten up there in price, so I poked around and found a privateer in town with a fullblown repair biz in his house. He rebuilt it again for $150 and I gave it to my son.

Cliffs: If yours is the tank killer vintage then either have it rebuilt or DIY. Orrrrrrrrrr, HF has pretty snazzy lo-profile quicklift NASCAR looking stuff that might last a decade. You just have to watch for decent total lift ht.

 

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Anybody have experience with power probes? The knockoff version on Amazon is almost 1/3 the price of a Power Probe 4 ($95 vs. $282) but I'm wondering what tradeoff there is.
 

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Power Probe, best tool on the planet.

Zero experience with knock offs. Only but the genuine tools.

300 seems very steep though unless it is the latest version with the fancy adapter kit. I use the older Power Probe 3 and the shop has the super generic (power and ground only) version.
 

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Amazon is almost 1/3 the price of a Power Probe 4 ($95 vs. $282) but I'm wondering what tradeoff there is.
$282 USD might get you a Fluke meter, and a little more would get you the meter features on your list. I have not shopped meters in a long time. Buy a good one and it should be good until you run over it or drop it off a building. The power injection feature can be done with a piece of wire with a alligator clip and fuse holder.

I can see a attraction to the probe for testing solenoid resistance and then powering them up to check their mechanical movement. Same for fuel injectors.

Back feeding power in a car harness can result in powering up a lot of unintended circuits and blowing out other fuses than the circuit you are looking at.
 

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Power Probe, best tool on the planet.

Zero experience with knock offs. Only but the genuine tools.

300 seems very steep though unless it is the latest version with the fancy adapter kit. I use the older Power Probe 3 and the shop has the super generic (power and ground only) version.
The Power Probe 3 is just power/ground/voltage. It's $120. The knockoff of the Power Probe 3 is $55. The Power Probe 4 knockoff at Amazon has duty cycle and an AC scope but some people fuss about the latency. I may just buy it and try it.
 

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The Power Probe 3 is just power/ground/voltage. It's $120. The knockoff of the Power Probe 3 is $55. The Power Probe 4 knockoff at Amazon has duty cycle and an AC scope but some people fuss about the latency. I may just buy it and try it.
P/G/V is all I need it for :) The newest 4 would be OK because it is smaller like the 3. The first version they released was HUGE. Getting into places with it was impossible.

Most likely the knock off will work just fine. One thing I have learned over the last few decades is that name brand and knock off are often times the same thing. One major tool truck brand out there is nothing more than Craftsman stuff with a premium price.
 
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