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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Haven't been able to find it through search...

I busted my temp gauge sensor this weekend and need to replace it. Anyone have a part number or vendor link?

Thanks!

EDIT: Found it on RockAuto, ACDELCO Part # 213928
 

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Try temp gauge SENDER,not sensor.
It sure seems from this and previous posts that this is a real "pet peeve" for you. Your response here did not even offer the poor guy a part number...very helpful. But I see from his edit, he managed to find what he was looking for even using the incorrect verbiage.

But seriously, this is such a silly thing to get hung up on. If this really bothers you so much, then you better get after the manufacturers to start changing all of their references to this part. Guess what?.....they also use the word SENSOR to describe it....."oh the humanity" :)

I've even seen it described as such on a GM site...."oh my Lord!!" I have even heard many mechanics, manufacturers and other "Car Guys" use both words to describe these parts. Kind of like Xerox or Copier....Kleenex or Tissue.

Is one more correct than the other? I dunno, but a better question might be....Does it even matter? Look at the verbage and dont shoot the messenger.....

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/acdelco-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor-213-928/15730286-P
 

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I'm planning on replacing mine soon.
My gauge isn't reading so I was going to get a new sensor/sender that goes in the water pumping has 3 pins instead of 2 so the gauge and pcm get the same temp.
The parts were the temp sensor for a 96 (I think) camaro with 3.8 v6 and the wire connector for the throttle position sensor for the LT1.
Something you could possibly look into.
 

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Sensor Confusion

I have a '95 Caprice 9C1 with the 5.7 L and the temperature gauge is telling me that the engine is not reaching operating temperature. I assumed that it was correct so I replaced the thermostat and that did not help. I did some research and learned that the gauge uses a temp sensor mounted on the right head and there is another temp sensor mounted on the water pump that is used by the engine management computer. I removed the connector from the sensor on the head and grounded the wire (it's a single wire) and that pegged the temp gauge so the gauge is probably OK. I want to replace the sensor but I am having trouble finding one. The local auto parts stores tell me they don't list two different coolant temp sensors and the one they sell has two electrical pins. The online auto parts stores list coolant temp switches and sensors for '95 Caprices and there is not enough information about them to tell if they have the part I need. First, are the two sensors interchangeable? Second, is there such a thing as a '95 Caprice with a coolant temp light instead of a coolant temp gauge which would need a coolant temp switch to turn it on? Third, does it matter if the sensor I buy has two pins? Fourth, I see in this thread a part number for a '96 Impala SS and a correction of that part number. I know the instrument panel on a '95 9C1 is different from a '96 Impala SS so the gauge temp sensor may be different so can anybody tell me the GM part number for the sensor I need? I presume I can use the GM part number to cross reference to many brands of sensors each with their own part number. For clarification, AFAIK, a temp switch opens or closes a circuit in response to its temperature and a temp sensor varies the resistance in a circuit in response to its temperature.
 

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No response so I kept digging and I will now try to answer my questions. If you are reading this then you probably need this information. First, no, the sensors are not identical. They look identical from the outside and the connectors look identical on the outside except that the sensor on the water pump has two wires and the connectors are different internally so you can't plug in the wrong sensor (good idea, GM). I don't know the answer to my second question. Third, both sensors appear to have two pins. On the temp gauge sensor, only one is used. Fourth, I still don't know the GM part number, but if the picture on Rock Auto for AC Delco part 21377 is correct, that is the correct replacement part. Rock Auto says it will work with both '95 and '96 Caprices and Impala SSs. However, Rock Auto says "The engine temperature signal is used by the engine control module to adjust the air/fuel mixture and ignition timing." about AC Delco part 21377. That describes what the sensor on the water pump does and that sensor has a connector that is different from the picture that Rock Auto shows next to those words, so something is wrong. I searched many vendor websites and made many calls to local auto parts stores and all I got was B. S. and confusing information. I choose to accept Elsamuai's statement that AC Delco 21377 worked on his '96 Impala SS and Rock Auto's statement that this part will work on '95 and '96 Caprices and Impala SSs and I ordered the part from Rock Auto. I hope it works.
 

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I hope that it's the correct one for your car. I don't have an LT1 but I try to research things for folks. I did see that the Four Seasons on RA said it was for the guage. (they only had nine left) Some of the other's listed also said that they were two connector but worked for your application. Fingers crossed all goes well for you. Keep your stuff high & dry down there.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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The picture looks right but the description is all wrong: "The switch is designed using a formed bimetallic contact arm. The bimetal contact movement is achieved using the different expansion rates of two metals fused together. This is a creep action device, provides precise performance
In production, all thermal switches are factory-calibrated to make electrical contact at the specified lower-temperature set point" So this is a switch to turn on a warning light. If the description is correct, this will not work with a gauge. Of course, Rock Auto's description of the one I ordered says it is the wrong sensor, too.
 

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I hope that it's the correct one for your car. I don't have an LT1 but I try to research things for folks. I did see that the Four Seasons on RA said it was for the guage. (they only had nine left) Some of the other's listed also said that they were two connector but worked for your application. Fingers crossed all goes well for you. Keep your stuff high & dry down there.

Mark: Snowman-33
Yes, Four Seasons 37954 actually says WITH GAUGE (their caps) which sounds like it includes a temperature gauge but it probably means it is FOR (my caps) the temp gauge and the picture of the connector looks right so this would probably be a safe bet if you trust the brand. This morning it was very cloudy and cool. Excellent weather for working in a driveway with no shade. If I could have found the part locally quickly, I could have installed it 7 hours ago. Now I will have to play weather roulette when the UPS van delivers the part next week (or later).
 

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If you have an O'Reilly auto near you they have it under the same number as the Four Seasons. Their's is a Murray part. I usually get stuff in a day or so from them.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Frustration

The part arrived and it fit but the gauge is even worse now. The fact that it fit means that the picture in the Rock Auto website listing is correct but the description (see post 6 above) in incorrect. Originally my gauge was reading suspiciously low; it indicated that the engine never reached operating temperature. Now, with the key out, the needle covers the C. With a cold engine and the key in the RUN position, the needle moves to the left (probably pegging the needle). In the START position, the needle pegs to the right. After starting the cold engine, the needle covers the C again. While idling for 25 minutes with the A/C on with the outside temperature in the mid 70's the needle never budged. I tried to connect my scanner to the car to see what the other temp sensor said but it would only communicate for a couple of seconds before disconnecting (cue Roseanne Roseannadanna). I may have to buy a connector so I can connect my ohmmeter to the sensor to verify that it changes resistance as its temperature changes. In the meantime would somebody who has a temp gauge that they trust verify that their gauge behaves as mine does in the underlined sentences? Be sure the key is in the RUN position, not the ACC position.
 

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Sounds like strange enough behavior to suspect wiring/grounding. I trust you added no more sealant than already applied to the threads. Picking up a head sender locally was not even memorable when I did one a few years back.


Oh, and I stold yur meme ;)
 

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Now, with the key out, the needle covers the C.
There is no spring to return the gauge to C the gauge will stay where ever it was when the key was turned off.

With a cold engine and the key in the RUN position, the needle moves to the left (probably pegging the needle).
This is correct for a working sender that is cold. Are you sure it moves?

In the START position, the needle pegs to the right
Normal self test. The ignition switch grounds the circuit in "start".


After starting the cold engine, the needle covers the C again. While idling for 25 minutes with the A/C on with the outside temperature in the mid 70's the needle never budged.
You have at least two possible choices: Sender is not connected to the gauge circuit OR you received the wrong part.

With a OHM meter you would get aprox 1365 Ohms at 100degF. Cold a Ohm meter may not be able to give a number or it will be very large. AT 260degF(VERY HOT) a Ohm reading of 55. You could do the same tests with the old sender as well.
 

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Now, with the key out, the needle covers the C.
There is no spring to return the gauge to C the gauge will stay where ever it was when the key was turned off.

With a cold engine and the key in the RUN position, the needle moves to the left (probably pegging the needle).
This is correct for a working sender that is cold. Are you sure it moves?

In the START position, the needle pegs to the right
Normal self test. The ignition switch grounds the circuit in "start".


After starting the cold engine, the needle covers the C again. While idling for 25 minutes with the A/C on with the outside temperature in the mid 70's the needle never budged.
You have at least three possible choices: Sender is not connected to the gauge circuit, The sender is not making a good connection,(bad connector or wiring) OR you received the wrong part.

With a OHM meter you would get aprox 1365 Ohms at 100degF. Cold a Ohm meter may not be able to give a number or it will be very large. AT 260degF(VERY HOT) a Ohm reading of 55. You could do the same tests with the old sender as well.
 

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I trust you added no more sealant than already applied to the threads.
96 Black
This is the most reasonable idea. Too much sealant(or tape) prevents the sender from grounding to the block. Just removing cleaning and replacing your old one may have worked.
 

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This is correct for a working sender that is cold. Are you sure it moves?
Yes, it moves to the left. I did not add any sealant. The Delco part comes with sealant already applied. I will try getting some resistance measurements but I don't know how I will determine the temperature. Thanks for the information.
 

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Yes, it moves to the left. I did not add any sealant. The Delco part comes with sealant already applied. I will try getting some resistance measurements but I don't know how I will determine the temperature. Thanks for the information.
Just a thought here. Can you hook the sensor up and then use an IR temp guage to read the temp of the sensor? That should give you the temp info ZO provided.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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The IR temp gauge sounds good if I had one and it would fit in the space near the sensor. I could control the temp by starting the engine, letting it get warm then turning it off and waiting for it to get down to 100* F. I discovered that, on the old sensor at least, the 2 pins in the connector are electrically the same. I figured the big pin was grounded so the sensor could be used as a 2 wire sensor without depending on the ground as the other side of the circuit. If that is not a defect in the old sensor, it means that if I can just get an alligator clip in there and grab both pins I will be able to measure the resistance of the new sensor. Meanwhile, I found a couple of 1/4 watt resistors that, when connected in parallel, equals 54.6 ohms. When I grounded the sensor lead through that resistance the gauge gave a reading about 60% of full scale. If 55 ohms represents 260* F, that gauge reading seems low to me. 260* is time-to-pull-over-and-fix-the-problem-NOW temperature, is it not? I vaguely remember reading about somebody who had a similar problem and he just pulled the needle off the gauge and re-positioned it where he thought it should be. I think I will try that. Where should the needle be pointing when the coolant temp is 260* F?
 

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Not to be smart, but I should think it would show at exactly the start of wherever red is. Related to re-gauging the gauge, I had an new Explorer from the first day on that ALWAYS read 1/2 during normal operation. I told the dealer and got it back a few days later and he said they got behind the gauge and just turned the dial down, giving the impression they just used a screwdriver.


To further confuse things, that gauge looks to function like maybe it uses stepper style I had to replace several of in an early '00's GM truck. I recall there is a calibration procedure when first energizing? Hope either of those help
 
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