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Discussion Starter #1
Got a 96 and at idle my temp light slowly comes on? What could be causing this temp light to slowly turn red?
 

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Lots of things. Low on coolant, bad cap, bad water pump, fans not working, etc.
 

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I replaced the cap and thermostat, think mite be a little bit of air maybe, wish i knew if it was my water pump or not? If my water pump was bad would i still be able to bleed it threw the valve?
 

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It would help to know if the car was actually getting hot. Or, the light just indicating it is...
 

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At first it was overheating at idle out my overflow tank, then i replaced the cap and went ahead and did the thermastat to, i bleed the bleeder valve a few times, the temp light still slowly comes on at idle but not overheating nomore, i havent drove it to see if it actual overheat on a drive it
 

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It would help to know if the car was actually getting hot. Or, the light just indicating it is...


Hahaha Actually, a lot of things would help. With nothing more volunteered than the year, it requires a lot of conjecture to connect the av pic with "light slowly comes on" (as opposed to a needle) to ASSUME we're talking about a FW. If that is the case, then simply read and compare both the coolant sensor temp and the coolant sender temp through the onboard HVAC panel, along with any codes. If RMs have a light and that's the car involved, then the above not applicable.

So, how long has this been going on? How long do you drive to start the light? Are the symptoms exactly the same as before the replaced parts? If so, did system get thorough flush and all-new AF? FWIW there's a right way and many wrong ways to bleed the system.


EDIT: Over-post. OK, just caught your latest reply and don't have much to change or add.
 

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"comes on slowly "

The info I see from wiring diagrams for a 1996 Fleetwood ( that is what you have , right? )

On off type lamp with a bulb test from the ign switch.

The temp sensor for the light is on or off, nothing in between.

Do you possibly have a gauge type temp sensor in there like used in the Caprice , Impala ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes sorry its a fleetwood brougham and its a light i stead of a needle, i thought when i changed the thermostat i lost alot of coolant so i topped it off at the water pump hole then i started to bleed the system threw the valve, i had the car for a month now and just noticed the overheating situation then i changed out the cheaper parts first
 

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Gerry, only a 'smart' idiot light on the FW. It'll take to glowing when starting to get hot, then brighter as hotter. The diag. panel reads the ECT Sensor - [pointer -24] (read in C), and the head sender temp [pointer -08] (read in F). The ECT is usually 20* cooler than -24.


EDIT: OP, finally we're getting somewhere.
1.If your history with the car totals only 1 month, then don't cheap out with haphazard maintainence. Start pulling documentable PM until you have a reliable base to work with. So,
2. Drain, properly flush and fill new AF to correct ratio with distilled water.
2A. Be sure coolant tank is full. Get car 20* up in the front, run to hot, bleed and few times, turn it off and leave it alone til cool.
2C. You'll see fluid has sucked out of the tank if there had been any steam pockets. Repeat 2A.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The temp light comes on but not to bright red status, when i start the car theres no temp light on then as 10 minutes go by at idle you can see the light lightly come on and gets redder but not bright red light other lights on the dash its weird
 

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Gerry, only a 'smart' idiot light on the FW. It'll take to glowing when starting to get hot, then brighter as hotter.
Really ? Sent you a text
 

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Gerry, sent you the closest thing I could track down showing the inst. pnl wiring. It shows just a switch "on" at 262*. Only three times I've ever seen the light on in either of my FWs, and 2 times it was just dim and flickering (misc. leaks), the other it started dim after idling too long, then blew out the plastic tee and got bright soon after. Maybe a secret rheostat in the gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Im going to try to keep bleeding my system to hope get all the air out and refill, should i do this on level ground or have the front end up in the air?
 

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....

EDIT: OP,
1.......
2.......

2A. Be sure coolant tank is full. Get car 20* up in the front, run to hot, (water will rise in the side tank as the thermo opens up. When it does, put the cap on and leave it on.), bleed and few times, turn it off and leave it alone til cool.
2C. You'll see fluid has sucked out of the tank if there had been any steam pockets. If so, Repeat 2A.

All while still up in the air.
 
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