TH350 speedo gear problem, not staying put.

2934 Views 10 Replies 4 Participants Last post by HuSSker, Jan 11, 2012

killerzracing71

Discussion Starter · Aug 24, 2010 (Edited)

I bought an adapter for my Th350 to bring the stock (700r4) tailhouse back to work with the stock crossmember.

Problem is it the spedo gear wont lock into place where it needs to be for the speedo.

Video of the problem.

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HuSSker

· #2 · Aug 24, 2010 (Edited)

There is a prong on the clip that sticks into the small hole on the tail shaft to retain the gear. The hole needs to be 5 5/8" from the end of the shaft to be in the right place for the 700 R4 tailshaft housing driven gear

Here is a 700R4 shaft.

Here is what it looks like with the gear in place. Ignore the reluctor.

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killerzracing71

Discussion Starter · #3 · Aug 24, 2010

Thats what I pointed out to my dad, I saw that in the stock hole.

What size hole should I drill, doesnt need to be deep I assume.

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HuSSker

· #4 · Aug 24, 2010

The second pic is actually of a 4L60E that I drilled to accept a gear. If I remember right, I drilled a 3/16 hole, and yeah it only has to be deep enough to catch the prong on the clip.

You need a TOUGH bit though. I actually ended up using a Dremel bit that was actually designed to cut wall tile, and kept it oiled while using a small drill press on low.

If this is going in a 94 or newer car, you can simply press the VSS reluctor on.

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Fred Kiehl

· #5 · Aug 24, 2010

killerzracing71 said:
Thats what I pointed out to my dad, I saw that in the stock hole.

What size hole should I drill, doesnt need to be deep I assume.

You should use a carbide bit. The shaft is heat treated. Oil is necessary to keep the bit cool. Make sure you break the edge, so cracks do not start there.

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killerzracing71

Discussion Starter · #6 · Aug 24, 2010

Fred Kiehl said:
Make sure you break the edge, so cracks do not start there.

Explain that part?

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HuSSker

· #7 · Aug 24, 2010 (Edited)

I'm pretty sure he means to simply take the sharp edge off of the rim of the hole to ensure that no stress cracks form from the shaft twisting at the area of the hole. This is a good practice to get into on any steel part that will be under a lot of stress/load/pressure. If you look at the 1st picture I possted, which is a 700R4, it doesn't take a lot, just enough to take the sharpness off ot the edge.

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killerzracing71

Discussion Starter · #8 · Aug 24, 2010

Awesome, cant wait to get the tranny in finnaly.

Now just get the motor straight.

IDK lol.

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Fred Kiehl

· #9 · Aug 24, 2010

HuSSker said:
I'm pretty sure he means to simply take the sharp edge off of the rim of the hole to ensure that no stress cracks form from the shaft twisting at the area of the hole. This is a good practice to get into on any steel part that will be under a lot of stress/load/pressure. If you look at the 1st picture I possted, which is a 700R4, it doesn't take a lot, just enough to take the sharpness off ot the edge.

Exactly!

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88LT1Wagon

· #10 · Jan 10, 2012

HuSSker, did you have to use a special puller to get the reluctor off? I'm trying to go the same route you did to run my mechanical speedo in my '88

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HuSSker

· #11 · Jan 11, 2012

No, if I remember right, I used one of my regular pullers. I believe I did have to fiddle with it a bit to get the puller to stay on the reluctor, since it is rather small.

You can gently tap around it with a hammer to get it off too. I removed and replaced the one on my truck that way in 1998.

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