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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First I want to thank Impala77 for putting me hip to Dave at Pro-Touring F-body.com in one of his post about whether there is an available chassis strengthening brace to connect the front frame horns. Dave was very friendly and helpful and he sold me one his Sway Bar Braces for the '75-'81 2nd Gen F-Body, Part # 2CF-842 listed for $69.00. This brace is similar to the "Wonder Bar" steering brace that BMR makes for the 3rd Gen F-Body.

The part description on the website says to "Reduce chassis flex due to heavy sway bar loads and from side loading caused by today's performance tires, also help avoid ripping out the front sway bar bolts". It seems that the steering gear on our B-Bodies is doing double duty besides steering the car. It also has to control the chassis flex at the front as well. Another design/factory omission?? I think so.

The guys at Street Smart here in Brooklyn installed the Sway Bar Brace without difficulty. They had to make one of the mounting holes on one side of the frame a little bigger. What do you expect from a 20+ year old car. I have the Hellwig 1.375" front swaybar with the hammertone finish and there was no interference between the swaybar and the brace.

Well the installation happened on the very wet and rainy day and I didn't think I would feel any difference under such conditions and since I am running 707 LBS front springs and 275/40-18 size tires. But WOW!!! After leaving the shop and driving around the block the steering response and feel seemed to increase by at least 200%. So "Big Ups!!!" to Dave at Pro-Touring F-body.com. This is one cost effective mod. Dave even you recommends that if you are not planning any further mods to the area that you permanently weld the brace to the frame once it is securely bolted in.
 

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First I want to thank Impala77 for putting me hip to Dave at Pro-Touring F-body.com in one of his post about whether there is an available chassis strengthening brace to connect the front frame horns. Dave was very friendly and helpful and he sold me one his Sway Bar Braces for the '75-'81 2nd Gen F-Body, Part # 2CF-842 listed for $69.00. This brace is similar to the "Wonder Bar" steering brace that BMR makes for the 3rd Gen F-Body.......
Very nice!!!! Scroll 1/2 the way down the page --->> http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/chassis_components.html

Haven't heard from ya for awhile, Col.

Glad you're still in the B-body game and coming up with ways to improve these beasts!!

Have a good one!!!

KW
 

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That's fricken awesome and thanks for sharing. Can't believe there is another mod I knew nothing about. I believe others here have made their own bracket to do the same thing. But for $69 this is a no brainier and will be getting 1 soon.

I guess it stands to reason that this bar designed for the 70-81 FBody would fit since I have the FBody bar on the car now. Just never considered this or even knew it was available. Looks like it also fits with your 9c1 power steering cooler line too....nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
....
I guess it stands to reason that this bar designed for the 70-81 FBody would fit since I have the FBody bar on the car now. Just never considered this or even knew it was available. Looks like it also fits with your 9c1 power steering cooler line too....nice.
Important fun fact. The front suspension on the '73-'77 A-Body and '77-'96 B-Body is the exact same front suspension out of the '70-'81 2nd Gen F-Body designed by the great Herb Adams. I think that is why our B-body is something of an overachiever in the handling department and great platform to improve upon.

Yeah no problem with power steering cooling lines. They just had to tucked the lower radiator hose a little upward out of the way.
 

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After seeing the "Buick Brace" I wondered about something like this. The concept fits KISS. Only thing I'm curious about now is and I saw it somewhere here and I think Scot talked about it. What if this bar had the sway bar bushing mount spacer too? One last question. Do you subtract the amount of the spacer from the end link proportionally? +1 inch spacer=-1 from link. Not to take away from OP
 

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Time for a Group Purchase?

Like the Dick Miller rear control arm braces, this a straight forward bolt-on upgrade.

With tax return season approaching for many B-Body owners, do you think we can get enough interest for a Group Purchase on this Sway Bar Brace?
 

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Very nice!
I was immediately surprised that a F-body brace would fit a B-body with little-to-no modification, until DUH, a bunch of people run the 1LE front bars, just like someone else mentioned up above.
Choo actually made me a frame rail/steering brace probably 2 or 3 years ago, and I STILL haven't gotten around to installing it. However, I might have some clearance issues with his design since I'm running an underdrive crank pulley as well.
 

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Very cool! Thanks for the heads up! I was planning on welding something up to do this, but it would be much easier to buy a pre-fabbed one and weld it in. I always figured some kind of brace up front there connecting the frame horns would make a difference (they used them in performance G bodies which is almost an identical chassis but if anything has LESS weight to deal with, so why would't they be on the b body?). I'm glad it actually made a noticeable difference!
 

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" They had to make one of the mounting holes on one side of the frame a little bigger"

more clarity on this please? the frame of the car or the frame of the brace?
 

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Would this same bar be as useful on a car with Herb Adams front Swaybar with double Spherical Rod Ends instead of End-links and Bushings?
 

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I got busy with SXSW this weekend, and forgot to mention that after reading the post Friday morning, I figured what better way to spend some of my money, and bought the bar around noon time.

By the time I left work, I had gotten a confirmation email that the bar had shipped!

These guys are on top of it, and this couldn't have come at a better time as I'm getting the control arms out of the storage unit, and getting ready to press in Del-A-Lum bushings for a complete front end rebuild with Moog parts, Eibach springs, new Bilsteins (4X)...and then hopefully a Lee Power Steering rebuilt pump & gear box to wrap everything up.
 

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" They had to make one of the mounting holes on one side of the frame a little bigger"

more clarity on this please? the frame of the car or the frame of the brace?
I missed this in the OP's original message.

I would assume that they are referring to the bar's thru holes, since the holes in the frame are tapped. Not really a big deal, but I'm interested as well.

I have a question about the socket head cap screws that are included with the bar. Can the OP comment on how much longer they are than stock? I hope that there's plenty of threads to catch on the frame side after being saced out by the mar's mounting plate.
 

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I really like this, thanks for sharing. I'm wondering, I have Hotchkis sway bars at 1.5". Looks pretty close.

I'm wondering if I can "stretch" the mounting holes for a little more clearance.

Any thoughts?
 

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Would this same bar be as useful on a car with Herb Adams front Swaybar with double Spherical Rod Ends instead of End-links and Bushings?
Not sure and I don't think many people out there run the HA bar to begin with. Was wondering the same thing myself as I happen to have one of those bars that I stashed away years ago but have not mounted it yet.

When doing this "wonder bar" mod I may just try it first with the FBody sway bar that is currently on the care to get an idea how the new bar works together with the sway bar. Then will later add the HA bar by itself and see how things perform. Before I do anything though, I'm going to see about securing some bolts down thru the frame and just use nuts to secure everything. A few people have done this here and I don't like how the bolts thread into the frame. Bringing the studs down thru the frame and using nuts would be more secure and no fear of stripping out the frame threads with multiple removals.

ALL - be careful doing this as I believe the stock bolts used are TTY type of bolts and better to replace with some Grade 8 or better HW.


Im guessing you currently run the Herb Adams bar with Tie Rod ends on the car now. I never mounted mine to see how much better it does than the bar with bushing ends. Have you run the HA bar and if so how has it done over the stock setup and do you find that the rod ends wear out or does it seem to be harsh for a street car?? When I got my bar (used) the rod ends were shot. I contacted HA to get some part numbers for new rod ends and will install them when I mount the bar.


Edit - looks like we talked about this before ��, I still have not got around to installing the bar. �� Just figures to be a longer project as I intend to mount the bolts down thru the frame. In case anyone is wondering about all this HA talk, this is the bar with pics......

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=329706&highlight=Herb+Adams+bar+rod+ends
 

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Stock bolts are not torque-to-yield, but are a limited-use thread deforming type of fastener.
Almost, they are a Tri-Lobular thread rolling/forming fastener.

You do need to be careful with that area, as I had to weld in 1/2" drilled & tapped steel blocks to the frame pad to replace the stock threads on my 9C1. Just one removal and installation was all it needed on the old '96 back in 2004, for the threads to be buggered up.
 

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Good Post There B'klyn9c1

Would this same bar be as useful on a car with Herb Adams front Swaybar with double Spherical Rod Ends instead of End-links and Bushings?
I should think running hard tierod ends would make it even MORE "useful" than with the slightly more forgiving design using urethane or rubber connections.

Using spherical ends looks like quite an improvement over the Hiem joints on the HA bar I ran on an Electra. That setup was so tight it pulled a bolt right through the A-arm. cwm4

That's fricken awesome and thanks for sharing. Can't believe there is another mod I knew nothing about. I believe others here have made their own bracket to do the same thing. But for $69 this is a no brainier and will be getting 1 soon.
Yah, quite the feeding frenzy on this one eh. Literal no-brainer. I caught at least one thread on a fellow who fabbed up a one-off of this upfit and wondered where this would land.

I run an F-body bar on my SS, but as you note it appears from the OP's pics this mod is universally applicable no matter what bar is used. And on those bolts, I recall using a special mount strap/bushing/fastener set ordered 15 years ago from NAISSO. I had heard of so many others' problems way back then with stripped frame threads when changing their bar that I'll be looking at fishing the new bolts down from inside the frame - if the threads finally let go this time.


Great
More stuff I have to buy
lol tell me about it. You know, I've never done no coke or crack but I'll be dammed every time I get bored and figure I might try it..... well along comes ANOTHER farkin' part that uses up all my mad money. cwm2
 

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Stock bolts are not torque-to-yield, but are a limited-use thread deforming type of fastener.
Yeah, I remember there was something about them not be good for a use or 2 as they would cause thread problems in the frame. This thread here has some more info on what I will do or some variation of what he did....

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=279899

I really like the idea of either going down thru the frame or just threading, then welding a stud in there and using Nuts to mount the bar. I also saw it in a thread somewhere that someone mentiuoned something similar to NavyLifers rear shock mount. Kinda like a U Bolt that you could drop down thru the frame and using the 2 threaded posts of the U Bolt.

I guess a lots depends on how accesable these holes are when it comes time for me to do this. I plan on having the Front bumper off for some other reapirs and hopefully that gives me some more accessability in getting bolts or whatever down thru the frame.

I guess worst case, you could overdrill and Tap new threads but then you may run into issues with the Bolt heads/nuts making contact with the U shaped bracket/clamp. I seem to remember that the area the Bolt tightens down to on the bracket is extremely close to the bracket and a larger bolt or nut may be difficult to turn.
 
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