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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys - My roadie won't start. I've already replaced the lock cylinder and done the vats resistor mod. I believe it's the theft deterrent module and I'd like to bridge the pins on the module to bypass the crank inhibitor, but I don't know where the module is located. Any suggestions??

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
need to find VATS relay still

This is what Bryan Herter said:

You need to jumper the vats relay. The starter and fuel pump cutoff are run separate from the PCM controller. If you jumper it's relay it can no longer interrupt the starter or fuel pump. The VATS part that I shut off in the PCM is the injector cutoff where it will start and then shut off a few seconds later.

Anyone know where to locate the vats module/relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I found a little relay box, about 1.5" cube w/ the purple and purple-white wires going in on one side, and I believe, starter wires going into the other side. I put a jumper between 30 & 87 and the starter kicked in immediately - even when the key is OFF! What??

I thought this would just bypass the key check, but it powers the starter even when the key is NOT IN IGNITION!

Hmmm. Well - I'm probably going to go get a remote starter and hook it in right here. I dunno. Another possibility at this point would be to hook up a button to these jumpers so I'll have a push-button starter. Argh.
 

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I found a little relay box, about 1.5" cube w/ the purple and purple-white wires going in on one side, and I believe, starter wires going into the other side. I put a jumper between 30 & 87 and the starter kicked in immediately - even when the key is OFF! What??

I thought this would just bypass the key check, but it powers the starter even when the key is NOT IN IGNITION!

Hmmm. Well - I'm probably going to go get a remote starter and hook it in right here. I dunno. Another possibility at this point would be to hook up a button to these jumpers so I'll have a push-button starter. Argh.
Say whaaaaaaat!? hahahah Don't know nothing about jumping 30 to 87. I read to jump those points on another thread a while back and thought that sounded weird.. Anyway I'm going to explain how I did it for anyone that wants to know. Gerry told me how and it worked like a charm. Thanks Gerry! :D Oh and first things first.. to bypass it using this method you must have it programmed out by pcmforless.com.
I have a 95 roadmaster, and my tdm (theft detterent module) and relay was located under the dash on the driver side above the the brack pedal and to the left, in the corner. When you look up under there you will see a metal black plate, remove that plate. Attached to this plate is the tdm and the relay. Mine said Bosche on the relay and the tdm. Fancy company for such a piece of motherf*cking sh*t part!!! Anyway.. I digress..:D .. Now just remove the relay from the plate, pops right off, and reinstall it. The relay is the one that looks like a cube. The tdm is the bigger skinnier box. Now just take a wire and jump slot A4 to B5 on the green male plug that went to the tdm. And you're done. If you check page 21 of the weekly mods thread I have a pic you can use for reference if needed that shows me holding the plate after I took it out with the tdm and relay still on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
LedSled - Thanks! I'll try that next.

Recently (last two hours>...) I hooked up a pushbutton starter across the relay lines. It works like a charm. BUT - the TDM kills the car about five seconds later. Argh! (btw - I found the cube). How did you get that plate off? Are you saying to access it from behind the fuse panel?

It's kinda cool having two starter options now (key or button). The VATS still comes and goes though. I'll try your method or have Bryan Herter program out the rest (??)
 

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LedSled - Thanks! I'll try that next.

Recently (last two hours>...) I hooked up a pushbutton starter across the relay lines. It works like a charm. BUT - the TDM kills the car about five seconds later. Argh! (btw - I found the cube). How did you get that plate off? Are you saying to access it from behind the fuse panel?

It's kinda cool having two starter options now (key or button). The VATS still comes and goes though. I'll try your method or have Bryan Herter program out the rest (??)
If I'm remembering right that plate is just held in with two screws. Once you remove the screws you just take out the two plugs that go to the tdm and the relay, then the whole assembly will come right out. Then the relay just slides off the plate and you plug the relay back up. I saw pictures where people accessed it through the fuse panel but that didn't work on my car. It wouldn't reach. I just layed my back on the driver floor board and reached my arm up. Once you remove the bottom the kick panel moulding you should be able to look right up and see it. Attached is a pic of when it was still installed.. an upward view if your head was about where your brake pedal is. X marks the spot of the black plate that has the tdm and relay on it and you can even see one of the screws on the white plasic piece beside it holding the plate in place. This is the bottom of the plate, the tdm and relay sit on top of it. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
PCM reprogram worked

It's been a long time - but for integrity - here's the end of my ordeal. I sent the PCM to Bryan Herter and he programed theft control out of the car. Starts like a charm every time now. With the key - or with the fancy button hiding under the dash now (though the ignition has to still be on). It's a cool trick though.

Next ordeal - the transmission. I've been limping around on a very soft 2-3 shift for a year or so now. Finally gave up the ghost. I pulled the transmission and am having a friend rebuild it now...
 

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Question re: the jumper from 87 to 30 on the relay. I pulled the relay out and the diagram on the side indicates the pin order is this:
85 87a 87
86 30

But when I look at the pins themselves they read like this:
87 87a 85
86 30

Which is correct?
 

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Say whaaaaaaat!? hahahah Don't know nothing about jumping 30 to 87. I read to jump those points on another thread a while back and thought that sounded weird.. Anyway I'm going to explain how I did it for anyone that wants to know. Gerry told me how and it worked like a charm. Thanks Gerry! :D Oh and first things first.. to bypass it using this method you must have it programmed out by pcmforless.com.
I have a 95 roadmaster, and my tdm (theft detterent module) and relay was located under the dash on the driver side above the the brack pedal and to the left, in the corner. When you look up under there you will see a metal black plate, remove that plate. Attached to this plate is the tdm and the relay. Mine said Bosche on the relay and the tdm. Fancy company for such a piece of motherf*cking sh*t part!!! Anyway.. I digress..:D .. Now just remove the relay from the plate, pops right off, and reinstall it. The relay is the one that looks like a cube. The tdm is the bigger skinnier box. Now just take a wire and jump slot A4 to B5 on the green male plug that went to the tdm. And you're done. If you check page 21 of the weekly mods thread I have a pic you can use for reference if needed that shows me holding the plate after I took it out with the tdm and relay still on it.


Just to clarify, there are two ways of doing it. first though, get the PCM reprogrammed. The method of wiring in resistence is pretty clear. The method of "jumper the relay" is a little less specific. First, you aren't going to do anything to the relay. You are going to remove the VATS unit and throw it away. On the 16 pin plug that did plug into the VATS unit, you are going to connect, with a wire, position A4 and B5. Here is what the plug looks like and how the positions are arranged with the locking clip at the top:


ATS 16 pin PASSKEY II
|------------------------|
A8| [] [] [] [] [] [] [] []| A1
B8| [] [] [] [] [] [] [] []| B1
|------------------------|

So, A4 is four pins to the left beginning at A1. B5 is the fifth pin from the right on second row. You take a 4 inch piece of wire with 3/8" insulation removed at both ends and twist the wire ends tight and stick them in the appropriate holes. Make sure the wire size is small enough to fit in the hole. zip tie everything down tight and you are done. you just "jumpered the relay:)" Wait a few weeks until you simmered down from fooling with under dash and you may want to get a simple switch to put in the jumper wire so that you can turn it off if you are going to leave the car somewhere or for other security concern.
 

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TDR Relay Jumped, Now What???

OK, I have been chasing this issue for a month now.
Installed the resistor bypass a few weeks ago, thinking that solved my issue.
Now this week its back.
So I decided to do the relay jumper fix, thinking it was the relay going out.
So I did the A4-B5 jumper method.

Now what I get, is the car starts, but then dies within seconds later.
Which would suggest that the fuel injectors are getting turned off.
Maybe?

Is there something else I need to do?
Frustrated.
 

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Problem Figured Out

So, I just relialized the TDR relay jumper only works if the VATS is removed from the PCM program. Until I can get that done, I guess I am out looking for a new relay.

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I know I am bringing up an older thread but my question is the blue wiring coming out of the TDM (theft deterrent module) is it a momentary wire or a 12volt constant type of wire? What is the single coming out of the TCM to the PCM?
 
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