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I think you mis-understood what SCOT was trying to say about the length of the bar (OR maybe I did).
I don't think he was referring to the mounting locations or end link locations. I think he was talking about the length of the material itself. From your photos above, the factory bar is nearly straight between the bushings. The aftermarket bar has some bends in it. This means that the aftermarket bar is longer (or has more material) due to the bends. This extra length will make the bar less stiff. A larger, longer bar may have the same rolling resistance as a smaller, shorter one.
 

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Jim Paley...The spring rate of the sway bar is always a fourth power equation based on diameter. Same for a torsion bar. If the bar is solid that's different than if the bar is hollow. So the overall length of the bar (hence my previous suggestion to use a cloth tape measure) will change the roll resistance of that bar. Even if the diameter is the same for two solid bars the longer bar is always going to have less roll resistance than a shorter bar, because due to it's length the longer bar has a lower spring rate. Hollow to hollow too. This was why I said the 1 7/16 Hotchkis hollow front bar has a lower spring rate than a 1 3/8 hollow Hellwig front bar even though the Hotchkis is thicker, it's longer.
 

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Yep. Understood. I just got the idea that not everyone understood what you meant by length. So I was trying to explain it a different way.
 

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Clarity can elude the conversation sometimes, for proof, just read my old posts trying explain bounce frequency to the unbelievers.
 

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Clarity can elude the conversation sometimes, for proof, just read my old posts trying explain bounce frequency to the unbelievers.
I've read a pile of your old suspension posts. Unfortunately not before I bought the heavy global west springs. However, you did influence my shock selection! Though it is WAY better than stock, I realize it will never be ideal with those springs. I have a lot of other things to worry about before I replace them with something lighter.
 

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At least you know there is a very inexpensive fix for springs. Eibach once made a Pro-Kit part # 3832.140 for the Caprice that was the optimal for all B-bodies. Long discontinued. The Pro-Kit for the Impala part # 3837.140 is almost perfect except it sets the ride height a little low. Which many prefer. The spring rate of the GW: it's not too heavy, too high a spring rate, needing one lighter, it's that you can't find any rear spring with a matching bounce frequency. The Eibach Impala set of 4 or any set of 4 matched springs will have the car feeling more coordinated, less clumsy. While the GW springs in front are unfortunate, they pale in comparison to cut springs. Cut GW springs? The F+R of the car might as well be on different planets.
 
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