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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after the long drive to Vegas......after driving a tightly held SRT8, and driving in a members ride, I've decided I want to address the suspension a bit more and attempt to tighten things up a bit.


So far I am looking at steering linkage like idler and pitman, but can't find a pitman PN on rockauto.com.

These cars do have the pitman arm correct? I've found the idler for $31 (Moog), but want the pitman too. I have play in the steering wheel and can feel the wobble through my "go" pedal. Nothing too bad yet, but between the SRT and the Tahoe I've driven (real bad) I can tell I need to address it over the fall/winter.

Probably be doing sway bars eventually too.
 

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The Pitman arm is not a wear item. Unless it's bent or ****ed for some reason, replacing it will not be beneficial.

Replace Idler Arm, CenterLink, all 4 tie-rods, adjuster clamps and balljoints. Also adjust the play from your steering box - or replace the box. This combintion will make the car steer like new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ah you're right I think....now that I've read that I kinda remember hearing that.

Upper BJs are good, so I will start with the Idler Arm and tie-rods etc. Any info on adjusting the steering box?
 

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BJ's

tie rods inner outer
idler arm pitman arm
steering box
aftermarket sways

and when you are done it will still handle like a pig
 

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BJ's

tie rods inner outer
idler arm pitman arm
steering box
aftermarket sways

and when you are done it will still handle like a pig
The truth...........

I've replaced all of these things (9c1 sways and steering box), going to do all the bushings next. I always regret driving newer big cars when I get back into mine, I realize thee technology is simply not there to make our cars ride like newer cars
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wrong wrong wrong.

I drove in a members Impala and it was tighter than I had expected.


I drive a car with very nice suspension daily...and the SS seemed to be right up there.

I think I'm going to try the $30 idler arm which will be free for me...and then do upgraded sways as my friends car has.
 

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Wrong wrong wrong.

I drove in a members Impala and it was tighter than I had expected.


I drive a car with very nice suspension daily...and the SS seemed to be right up there.

I think I'm going to try the $30 idler arm which will be free for me...and then do upgraded sways as my friends car has.
This makes me look forward to new bushings and new control and out back. Maybe some thicker bars too!
 

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Wrong wrong wrong.

I drove in a members Impala and it was tighter than I had expected.


I drive a car with very nice suspension daily...and the SS seemed to be right up there.

I think I'm going to try the $30 idler arm which will be free for me...and then do upgraded sways as my friends car has.
Really? If the SRT8 handles like an Impala then i am staying away from them when i get a new car...

I have hotchkis springs, sways, Bilstein stiffs, UMI LCA's, did the entire front end (everything mentioned in the thread), riding on stock rims, and while it is a VAST improvement over stock, the ride is jouncy, unsettled on broken pavement, and you can really feel the weight of the car as it goes through corners. While it doesn't wallow/float nearly as much, I still know I'm driving a very large, heavy vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Really? If the SRT8 handles like an Impala then i am staying away from them when i get a new car...

I have hotchkis springs, sways, Bilstein stiffs, UMI LCA's, did the entire front end (everything mentioned in the thread), riding on stock rims, and while it is a VAST improvement over stock, the ride is jouncy, unsettled on broken pavement, and you can really feel the weight of the car as it goes through corners. While it doesn't wallow/float nearly as much, I still know I'm driving a very large, heavy vehicle.
That's really a shame. :( But I still say it can be done....maybe it's because the SS in question is a low mile car.

However, I have not been behind the wheel yet. But even riding shotgun you can tell if the car has a tight suspension.

Weird.
 

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once the front and rear suspensions on our cars are rebuilt theres two things I think would improve the handling.
IMO heh
a panhard rod for the rear axle.
you can feel the rear shift on hard turns, the 4 bar setup is not the best.
and something akin to subframe connectors to stiffen the frame between front and rear.
boxing the frame would do the same but thats alot of work.
 

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BJ's

tie rods inner outer
idler arm pitman arm
steering box
aftermarket sways

and when you are done it will still handle like a pig
The truth...........

I've replaced all of these things (9c1 sways and steering box), going to do all the bushings next. I always regret driving newer big cars when I get back into mine, I realize thee technology is simply not there to make our cars ride like newer cars
So are you saying that there is no reason for me to waste money replacing my upper and lower control arm bushings, and ball joints in an effort to get that like new ride? I've replaced my inner and outer tie rods and idler arm, and my car is still feels loose as a goose on the road.
 

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Why do you put huge wheels and rubberband tires on the car and then complain that it doesn't ride like new? Tires under 40 profile do not perform well and the huge wheels are heavy and reduce performance. The cars were not designed for that. You have chosen having the appearance you like over function, live with it.
 

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So are you saying that there is no reason for me to waste money replacing my upper and lower control arm bushings, and ball joints in an effort to get that like new ride? I've replaced my inner and outer tie rods and idler arm, and my car is still feels loose as a goose on the road.
I think the all of the steering linkage in addition to the bushings will get you the closest to a "like new" ride, but that's a given I think

Why do you put huge wheels and rubberband tires on the car and then complain that it doesn't ride like new? Tires under 40 profile do not perform well and the huge wheels are heavy and reduce performance. The cars were not designed for that. You have chosen having the appearance you like over function, live with it.
Hostile much? My wheels aren't that big, in fact I have 18s with 40 series tires on then up front because I dislike the "rubber band" look for the most part. Also, it drove very similar when I had 17s on. That's why I've started looking more extensively into other suspension parts.
 

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"Hostile much? My wheels aren't that big, in fact I have 18s with 40 series tires on then up front because I dislike the "rubber band" look for the most part."

I wasn't responding to you. 18's and 40 series should work fine as far as tires/wheels go. The OP has 22's and I stand by what I said about that.
 

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Really? If the SRT8 handles like an Impala then i am staying away from them when i get a new car...

I have hotchkis springs, sways, Bilstein stiffs, UMI LCA's, did the entire front end (everything mentioned in the thread), riding on stock rims, and while it is a VAST improvement over stock, the ride is jouncy, unsettled on broken pavement, and you can really feel the weight of the car as it goes through corners. While it doesn't wallow/float nearly as much, I still know I'm driving a very large, heavy vehicle.
I would like to meet up with you to see what the suspension parts do over the stock suspension. My 95 Caprice (Impala SS Clone) is a $500 in the works car. Maybe I can learn a thing or two from your setup.
 

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I would like to meet up with you to see what the suspension parts do over the stock suspension. My 95 Caprice (Impala SS Clone) is a $500 in the works car. Maybe I can learn a thing or two from your setup.
Hey, I just copied all the other guys on the forum.

If you are ever in LA area we can definitely meet up some time.

I found that replacing the front suspension wear components tightened the car up and got rid of most of the slop/wander.

Spring/shocks eliminated most of the floating/seasickness over bumps

LCA's helped with wheel hop and the sensation of the rear axle moving around

sways did the most to tighten up the turning and limit the pitching/rolling
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Why do you put huge wheels and rubberband tires on the car and then complain that it doesn't ride like new? Tires under 40 profile do not perform well and the huge wheels are heavy and reduce performance. The cars were not designed for that. You have chosen having the appearance you like over function, live with it.
LMAO! Listen up...the car I am talking about, well do you know what size wheels it has?

Well, they would be 22" with 265 30 or 35 tires.

There goes your logic out the door buddy.
 

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LMAO! Listen up...the car I am talking about, well do you know what size wheels it has?

Well, they would be 22" with 265 30 or 35 tires.

There goes your logic out the door buddy.
What does that mean? I said 22" is too big and less than 40 profile(30 or 35) is too low for your B4U. The suspension wasn't designed for that. Ride will deteriorate and there will be a steering tendency to wander. The fact that you are complaining about the ride with that combo just proves my point. If you lowered it, it will also ride worse. I just said that it is not going to "ride like new" with that setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What does that mean? I said 22" is too big and less than 40 profile(30 or 35) is too low for your B4U. The suspension wasn't designed for that. Ride will deteriorate and there will be a steering tendency to wander. The fact that you are complaining about the ride with that combo just proves my point. If you lowered it, it will also ride worse. I just said that it is not going to "ride like new" with that setup.
lmao ok ok, ok? :confused:

I never said my car wanders, in fact it doesn't.

I dunno who shoved the giant stick up your ass, but you haven't helped one bit in my thread.


I didn't know 22"s were okay on the Impala SS, but when put on my B4U it will sudden'y ride worse than an old 9C1? :D
 
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