If what you were saying is "No "Slack" must be allowed" then this is not true. I only say this due to what I saw on my factory chain, there was a good amount of Slack in it.I am not a mechanic but I am sure no lack must be allowed in this parts due it will affect the sincronization between vlaves and piston positions. It must be as firm as possible
If what you were saying is "No "Slack" must be allowed" then this is not true. I only say this due to what I saw on my factory chain, there was a good amount of Slack in it.
Back when I had the Front Cover off the engine I decided to replace the Stock chain with one from Cloyes. The car ran fine before the swap, I just decided to replace the Chain and Sprockets anyway. As Nab had mentioned, its highly unlikely that these go bad unless the chain Breaks (unlikely) or the teeth on sprockets wear. So your mechanic may not have been truthful or just didn't know any better....either one of those is not good in a mechanic.
There was definitely more slack in the Stock Chain as the Cloyes setup had less slack in it when new. Keep in mind that if I was to pull the cover today and recheck it, it's highly possible that the Cloyes chain could have opened up a bit after running and have a little more Slack then when new.
EDIT - There is Slack. Here are some pics to prove it at the bottom of this thread.
I understand there may be some language barriers going on here and didn't intend to make it sound like you were doing anything wrong with your posts. It was just from what I was reading it sounded like your mechanic was giving you some bad info and maybe I misread that. Just sharing what I know and what I've read and sorry if you interpreted this any other way.Dear friends... as I said, I am not a mechanic but work with precise machines (CT's) and perhaps the problem is my bad manegement of the english languajes. of course CAN be some slack and it doesn't mean you need to change chain. There is a tolerance range, but when I replace it. The total assesembly must look like the bycicle chain... not tigh but not holding just with the movement inherent to the chain parts itself.
I don´t say that a car doesn´t work with a slack chain, I say it can fail and jump a tooth in one of the pulleys with a elonged one. To adjust and keep the 0° calibrations before reconnect the calibration plug is easy but after connect it the ECM will over work to maintain it without detonate.
From another stand point, I want to be clear with something. I want to learn, and, if I make a mistake or say a wrong thing . I will no problem to apologize about.
I have never professed to be one either. The best of us are merely tenacious wrenchers.Dear friends... as I said, I am not a mechanic...
Your English is one helluvalot better than my Spanish. You're doing fine. You already put a capital for each new sentence. Hell, you actually use sentences! Just be mindful of your/you're, there/their/they're, its/it's and a little respect for the past perfect tense and you'll be better than most guys posting......perhaps the problem is my bad management of the english languajes.
No need. We're American. We don't apologize much either. cwm2... I want to learn, and, if I make a mistake or say a wrong thing . I will no problem to apologize about.
My 73 Polara 318 ci jumped the teeth between shut down and the next start when I stopped for groceries. If I remember correctly it too had nylon sprockets that were very worn at 120 K miles.A timing CHAIN cannot jump a tooth. That is a myth.
I confess when I read 400K I suposed a mistake and a "0" added for error.A timing CHAIN cannot jump a tooth. That is a myth.
As I mentioned earlier timing chains last up to 400k miles.
There's no need to replace it unless you want to waste money.
First off these motors were not 40+ years old when they had problems. Some of us are older and our daily drivers are now collector cars.What do two 40+ year old motors that are totally different have to do with these motors anyway?