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Discussion Starter #1
I walked out to my garage and there was a significant coolant puddle. After looking around for the source, I pulled the vacuum hose off the distributor (the one with the spring clamp that goes to the manifold, not the one coming from the air inlet). And from out of that distributor vent hole came the steady dripping.

I could also see a drip hanging off the weep hole in the water pump, but I could not find where the more major leak was coming from that would cause the distributor to collect so much coolant that it continues to come out of the distributor vent hole. It seems like it will continue to drip until the coolant level reaches the level of the origin.

I am trying to imagine where the leak could be that all the coolant exits through the distributor. Any ideas?

As I say I am going to get a new water pump and complete timing chain gasket set. I am only asking in case there could be another possible source for such a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I just got back from a 3500 round trip. I parked it in the garage. This morning I backed it out and went to the grocery store. There was no anti-freeze on the floor at that time. Ireturned and put it in the garage again. Then I came back out to the garage a few hours later and I must have a half gallon of antifreeze on the floor now.
 

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Why replace the timing cover gaskets/seals? There's no coolant in there anywhere. Water pump seal,gasket failure,and/or improperly sealed water pump bolts are most likely...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I understand that. Well it is all original parts and just under 80K miles. Since I have it apart, I think it would make sense to replace those seals and the rotor and cap. I think after 22 years the seals may be a bit less than supple.

As for anything done improperly, nothing has been done on this car other than brakes and shocks, A/C clutch, belts and hoses and other wear items. I just do not see any leaking from the water pump or where the water pump meets the block. It is STILL dripping from the distributor vent hole after 6 or 7 hours. And it still starts and runs fine.
 

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The water pump is leaking from the weep hole and it is getting into the opti spark because of a bad seal on the distributor cap and then leaking out of the vent hose for the opti. That weep hole is directly above the distributor cap. I just finished replacing my water pump TWICE this weekend (the replacement I installed last night leaked worse than the one I removed after 4 years of service (from the weep hole) so I replaced the faulty pump today with another NEW one (AC Delco Professional). I drilled the weep hole to 7/32" then tapped it for 1/4"-28 thread and then installed a 90* grease zerk (make sure to remove the tension ball and spring) and I also drilled the opening of the grease zerk as large as I could. Once done I used a piece of clear tubing and attached it to the zerk with a constant pressure clamp and ran the hose downward out of the way of the opti.
 

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I went with the AC Delco Professional #252-700 and so far it's been working fine. But read this for more info on that Pump.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/53-heating-cooling-hvac/1248466-ac-delco-252-700-wp-any-good.html

When doing the Weep Hole Drain Mod, I found the 90* fitting would not work but the 45* fitting was juuuust right.....

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/53-heating-cooling-hvac/1250881-wp-weep-hole-drain-mod.html

BTW - Skatterbrake, be sure to do the seals while the WP is off. It's well worth doing while the Pump is off the front and maybe pull the opti to inspect it and see if you can't re-seal the Cap to the housing to prevent further water infiltration of the Opti. Also a real good idea to check the condition and Operation of the Vent Harness while there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh yeah! I replaced the cam seal and O-ring and the O-rings on the distributor shaft and the seal for the Opti drive. I already had a Fel-Pro gasket set on hand. I am awaiting the AC Pro water pump and the ACDELCO cap and rotor. The leak was not from the weep hole, but the rear seal on the pump was obliterated, exposing the ball bearings inside.

I would not overlook these seals nor the Opt-Spark while I have it apart. Sometimes you just replace certain things when it is convenient whether it truly needs it or not to avoid having to revisit certain disassembly procedures prematurely. It is so simple to replace these two seals while you are there anyway.

It seems that the Youtubes and threads here I have seen do not show that you have to pull the smog pump braket to get to the middle water pump bolt on the driver's side. On the Roadmasters and Fleetwoods you do.

Do you not have to do this on the Caprice/Impalas?
 

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It seems that the Youtubes and threads here I have seen do not show that you have to pull the smog pump braket to get to the middle water pump bolt on the driver's side. On the Roadmasters and Fleetwoods you do.

Do you not have to do this on the Caprice/Impalas?
Only the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ah yeah Well here in AZ even if you pass the smog test, you would fail if the pump is not present. In fact, just two days ago I took my FWB in and the newbie failed me because he could not see the CATs. (his supervisor fixed it for me because I HAVE CATs) but, my results were:

Hydrocarbons: Loaded reading 8 PPM. Allowed 220 PPM. Idle 7 PPM Allowed 220 PPM.

CO: Loaded reading 00.00% Allowed 1.20%. Idle 0.01%. Allowed 1.20%

So even with those excellent results I would have failed the inspection without a smog pump present.

But the joke is on them, my computer is programmed to never switch the pump on under any circumstances.
 
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