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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As long as they come in the mail tomorrow the new LCas are going on. I had a quick question. I know I must put load on the suspension when tightening the bolts so I don't cause binding, but how much load is necessary? I can torque down bolts then the car is sitting on the ground. Can I just jack up the axle (car supported w/ stands on each side) and torque everything down, or do I need to find something to set each wheel down on so I have clearance to get under the car and torque the bolts.

Any other tips are appreciated. Thanks
Matt
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Originally posted by AutocroSSer:
Basic tips are :</font>
  • Put the car on jackstands on the frame in back, remove rear tires</font>
  • Unbolt/Remove swaybar</font>
  • Unbolt ONE arm at a time from the car only!</font>
  • Remove one arm, and put in new arm. Torque down the bolts to about 30-40 ft-lbs for now (i.e. "tight" with a 1/2" drive ratchet, but don't really lean into it yet)</font>
  • Repeat on other arm, but do NOT reinstall the swaybar yet</font>
  • Put the weight back on the rear suspension (either put the jackstands under the axle, or reinstall tires and put on the ground) then torque up the control arm bolts to spec (refer to the FSM and/or Hotchkis, but should be around 120-130 ft-lbs)</font>
  • Install swaybar, torque to spec with the weight on the suspension</font>
  • Enjoy your new parts
    </font>
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by Thump:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by AutocroSSer:
Basic tips are :</font>
  • Put the car on jackstands on the frame in back, remove rear tires</font>
  • Unbolt/Remove swaybar</font>
  • Unbolt ONE arm at a time from the car only!</font>
  • Remove one arm, and put in new arm. Torque down the bolts to about 30-40 ft-lbs for now (i.e. "tight" with a 1/2" drive ratchet, but don't really lean into it yet)</font>
  • Repeat on other arm, but do NOT reinstall the swaybar yet</font>
  • Put the weight back on the rear suspension (either put the jackstands under the axle, or reinstall tires and put on the ground) then torque up the control arm bolts to spec (refer to the FSM and/or Hotchkis, but should be around 120-130 ft-lbs)</font>
  • Install swaybar, torque to spec with the weight on the suspension</font>
  • Enjoy your new parts
    </font>
</font>[/QUOTE]hey where did you find those?? There's a torque spec for the sway bar bolts? That I did not know.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There is literally a torque spec for EVERY bolt in the car.

As for the swaybar bolts, consult your arm manufacturer. That said, I wouldn't crank down as hard on the BMR arms as I would on the GW arms for the swaybar bolts ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For final torque I would put the rear of the car on jack stands under the axle or set it down on ramps. That way you have some good room to get a torque wrench in there. BTW, definately just do one side at a time, Then torque both sides. Then mount the sway.

This is where you usually find out that from jacking and lifts the frame under where the front bolt is for the LCA's has been bent up over time, and sometimes access is a little bit of an issue. Best of luck though! You'll love the results.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just jacked the car up a little, the tires were still on the ground. Did one side at a time. Then let the car down and torque to 107 ft/lbs if I remember correctly.
 
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