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Trying to understand what happened:


Right end Front tire worn out quite significantly on the outside and from the middle of the tire.


Car pulling to the right a bit since long time.


Camber is assymetrical with more negative camber on the worn RHside.


I read here an there that negative camber will wear the inner side of the tire not outside like me.
But I take for granted that in these cases both wheels have same negative camber.


If RH side has more negative what is the effect ? pulling on one side ? which one ? which requires driver to trim constantly and thus creating a constant wear on one tire only ?


I could not find any thread or article dealing with assymetrical setting and the consequences on the long run ...
 

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the right front tire is worn from the middle to the outer edge .. also pulls right .

my guess is the shims fell out ... camber is off / tire not sitting flat on the pavement outer edge is making all the road contact. tire should sit evenly on the pavement.
when this is adjusted correctly you will have no pull on a flat road steering wheel will stay straight with no hands on it.

also when aligned the steering wheel must be exactly straight on a flat straight road. this will make steering react properly esp at hywy speeds.

if in the EU good luck finding a alignment shop .
 

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I'd take a look @ LF lower ball joint AND camber.
If you have a problem wearing a tire and specs. on that side are ok.
The problem can be the opposite side.
If you have negative camber on LF and okay on RF it will wear a tire like you stated even when RF camber is ok.
A bad ball joint can easily produce neg. camber.
 

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I'd take a look @ LF lower ball joint AND camber.
If you have a problem wearing a tire and specs. on that side are ok.
The problem can be the opposite side.
If you have negative camber on LF and okay on RF it will wear a tire like you stated even when RF camber is ok.
A bad ball joint can easily produce neg. camber.
I disagree that the driver side would cause the passenger side tire to wear as he stated. also the vehicle pulls right.

driver side tread good / pass side bad ... so I do not see how you can get to your conclusion that is is the driver side being with worn/adjustments damaging the pass side.
I do my own alignments.
 

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You can disagree, but I have seen it.
I used to work on cars for a living, done lots of alignments.
Just because a vehicle pulls doesn't mean the problem is on that side.

Vehicle will pull to the more POSITIVE side with camber.

Very common to see a bad ball joint on big heavy cars like these, and when they go, that side the camber moves negative.
 

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You can disagree, but I have seen it.
I used to work on cars for a living, done lots of alignments.
Just because a vehicle pulls doesn't mean the problem is on that side.

Vehicle will pull to the more POSITIVE side with camber.

Very common to see a bad ball joint on big heavy cars like these, and when they go, that side the camber moves negative.
the damaged tire is on the pass side that is why I do not agree with your idea it is a driver side component or alignment issue on the side with no tire wear failures

the camber and toe spec is 0 deg , caster is 3.50 deg..
before I did alignments when I was a kid 50% of the time they F'd up the alignment made U turn back into the shop.. same type vehicles going back to 1967... GM rear wheel drive.

when I replace my tires they are all worn exactly the same , all across the full tread ... I just do not trust the shops. this guy in the EU is gonna have problems ... even in the states he may have a hard time finding a tech that knows even the spec's for this vehicle..

along with shims I would also say control arm bushings at this age.
 

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Well again just giving info. It is a possibility whether you agree or not.
Just went through this with my truck.
Look @ pic, my RF tire was worn BADLY LF was fine, normal wear.
Problem was a bad LF lower ball joint.
 

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Well again just giving info. It is a possibility whether you agree or not.
Just went through this with my truck.
Look @ pic, my RF tire was worn BADLY LF was fine, normal wear.
Problem was a bad LF lower ball joint.
not that I am a jeep guy the caster is way off on both sides ... that's your problem with the wear issues.

both sides caster off that much , I would agree that you sure do have tire wear problems and MPG etc from the tires out of alignment that much.

just so you know the right pass side tires wear out faster than the driver side ... road grit on the shoulders !!! if if out of alignment from whatever reason the right tires gets worn at a faster rate than the driver side.

ball joints will talk to you before the tires get damaged ... a slight amount of ball joint wear will not damage the tire. even a small amount of ball joint wear you should have felt it . check your sway bars and the shocks ... that does effect the life of ball joints .. if grease fittings are there lube every 3-6 mo with a lithium EP2 grease.
 

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not that I am a jeep guy the caster is way off on both sides ... that's your problem with the wear issues.

both sides caster off that much , I would agree that you sure do have tire wear problems and MPG etc from the tires out of alignment that much.
LMAO Caster has nothing to do with tire wear, or MPG.
Lift springs reduced the caster. Specs in pic are wrong for vehicle. While it was low only .3 difference per side.

Trucks are a little different than cars, and a bad ball joint isn't as noticeable. Especially if lifted with larger tires.

Again my point is RF tire worn badly, LF bad lower balljoint due to negative camber on LF caused by bad balljoint.

I'm done here, obviously falling on deaf ears.
 

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the camber is not off that much very close to spec. toe is good. caster way off. that is the tire wear. also you did a lift and did not get an alignment ? that says a lot .

I agree that you are done .
 

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Caster has NO affect on tire wear.
Camber was the problem.

And assuming what I did or didn't due is irrelevant.
I'd suggest doing a little more reading on alignments. Since you don't seem to fully understand camber/caster.
 

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I think if the gentleman from France does reply to his thread...he would be prudent to inspect his entire front suspension as to the "why" his tire did wear as it did.

He may be missing shims, bad ball joints, alignment off, worn tie rods, control arm bushings, etc preventing any alignment to hold true...etc etc

so despite the "discussion" on this thread...I would take all as suggestions and inspect under the car. Worn suspension and missing shims are pretty easy to discover and once inspected should be clear wtf the issue is.

Of course getting parts and having a shop do alignment on the B-body may be the bigger challenge in France
 

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You can get a magnetic camber/caster gauge on ebay for under $100, and a toe gauge for about the same. It is not difficult to set the camber and caster with a copy of the FSM. I am doing an alignment on my wagon next week. All you have to do is find a nice flat parking lot to work on. The calculations for camber and caster should take about 20 minutes. The toe in should take a little longer, because you have to fiddle with the tierod ends to get the steering wheel centered.


Check your bushings and balljoints before attempting an alignment, because if they are bad, no amount of adjustment will help.


You must have the FSM to do the alignment correctly. Any year FSM will give you the information you need.


Any guesses in this thread are just that...guesses. Check everything, do any repairs, then do the alignment.


If you can not do it yourself, take it to a shop that specializes in frames, and supply an FSM for them to use.
 
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