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Boy, those Torx bolts for the seatbelts will not give up! Liquid Wrench didn't work, banging with a hammer didn't work, I actually twisted the end of the bit I put so much force on it. Any tips? Do I have to blast?
 

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ive had to heat them using a heat gun. worth a try if you have one. good luck
 

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The above comments plus throw the Liquid Wrench away. Try something like PB Blaster instead. It does make that much difference.
 

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The above comments plus throw the Liquid Wrench away. Try something like PB Blaster instead. It does make that much difference.
It has been proven that Liquid Wrench actually works better that PB Blaster. I was suprised, too.

there was an article comparing various penetrates in the April 2007 issue of Machinist Morkshop Magazine. They arranged a subjective test of all of the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a scientifically rusted environment.
Penetrant: Average Load:
none 516 ft lbs
WD40 238
PB Blaster 214
Liquid Wrench 127
Kano Kroil 106
ATF-Acetone mix 53
 

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Be sure that you have the proper size torx bit. I can't remember the size but it is common to use one that it too small and strip it.
 

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Hose down the bolt with WD40 and let it sit for half an hour. Repeat if necessary. They can be a b*tch, but they will come out. I've sometimes had to use a breaker bar to break them loose, then remove them with an impact. I'll echo what was said about a quality torx bit. You'll find out what being up sh*t creek means if you strip out that torx head.
 

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It is a torx 50. I have always been able to take out the bolt with a cheapy 3/8 inch ratchet, and I have removed at least 30 of them. I believe they put thread locker on them.
 

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along with the thread lock on them, there is usally like nasty adhesive from the carpet backing in the threads not helping any...
 

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When i took mine out I remember using a set of vise grips to break it free at first, then used the torx bit.
 

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The trick to the penetrants is vibration. Pneumatic impact wrench is handy here, but tapping them with a hammer will work but time consuming. Small ball peen hammer and light tapping works better vice beating the snot out of the bolt.

As mentioned heat works too but not talking anything flaming here.

A trick that more often than not works for me is attempting to remove stuck fasteners using the 'bouncing torque' method.

Using a 1/2" breaker bar and a quality torx bit, lay onto the breaker bar with considerable torque, and while holding this torque start bouncing on the breaker bar. What you are doing is applying initial torque and then increasing and decreasing that torque in a bouncing/repetative fashion - all the while constantly applying signficant torque to the bolt without backing off.

Bounce the torque 10-20 times. If it still does not break loose, start to slightly increase the torque as you bounce. Start ratcheting the torque up - until something gives.

Half the battle is keeping the bit fully seated in the bolthead while bouncing the torque load. Torque ain't worth a damn if the tool doesn't stay seated [squarely]. And take your time; patience pays. Concentrate on staying straight on the bolt while keeping the bit buried in the bolthead and let your body weight bounce the breaker bar. Soon you should hear a very satisfying 'crack' as it breaks loose. Or worse.

I've demonstrated the above on stubborn fasteners to guys and have turned them into believers. Works REAL WELL on lug nuts - where a 1/2" pneu impact @ 125 psi for minutes wouldn't.

Btw: another penetrating oil you might try is Marvel Mystery Oil. Good stuff. Soak, vibration, soak, vibration, yada heat yada, then attack.

And don't hesitate to take the seats out - give yourself plenty of room to work. Why fight a confined work space? Just causes more forehead sweat and uttering of common vulgar phrases about the family tree!
 

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The trick to the penetrants is vibration. Pneumatic impact wrench is handy here, but tapping them with a hammer will work but time consuming. Small ball peen hammer and light tapping works better vice beating the snot out of the bolt.

As mentioned heat works too but not talking anything flaming here.

A trick that more often than not works for me is attempting to remove stuck fasteners using the 'bouncing torque' method.

Using a 1/2" breaker bar and a quality torx bit, lay onto the breaker bar with considerable torque, and while holding this torque start bouncing on the breaker bar. What you are doing is applying initial torque and then increasing and decreasing that torque in a bouncing/repetative fashion - all the while constantly applying signficant torque to the bolt without backing off.

Bounce the torque 10-20 times. If it still does not break loose, start to slightly increase the torque as you bounce. Start ratcheting the torque up - until something gives.

Half the battle is keeping the bit fully seated in the bolthead while bouncing the torque load. Torque ain't worth a damn if the tool doesn't stay seated [squarely]. And take your time; patience pays. Concentrate on staying straight on the bolt while keeping the bit buried in the bolthead and let your body weight bounce the breaker bar. Soon you should hear a very satisfying 'crack' as it breaks loose. Or worse.

I've demonstrated the above on stubborn fasteners to guys and have turned them into believers. Works REAL WELL on lug nuts - where a 1/2" pneu impact @ 125 psi for minutes wouldn't.

Btw: another penetrating oil you might try is Marvel Mystery Oil. Good stuff. Soak, vibration, soak, vibration, yada heat yada, then attack.

And don't hesitate to take the seats out - give yourself plenty of room to work. Why fight a confined work space? Just causes more forehead sweat and uttering of common vulgar phrases about the family tree!

hmmm, Im gonna have to remember that technique the next time i try to take the front seatbelts off a junkyard caprice, thanks!
 

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The trick to the penetrants is vibration. Pneumatic impact wrench is handy here, but tapping them with a hammer will work but time consuming. Small ball peen hammer and light tapping works better vice beating the snot out of the bolt.

As mentioned heat works too but not talking anything flaming here.

A trick that more often than not works for me is attempting to remove stuck fasteners using the 'bouncing torque' method.

Using a 1/2" breaker bar and a quality torx bit, lay onto the breaker bar with considerable torque, and while holding this torque start bouncing on the breaker bar. What you are doing is applying initial torque and then increasing and decreasing that torque in a bouncing/repetative fashion - all the while constantly applying signficant torque to the bolt without backing off.

Bounce the torque 10-20 times. If it still does not break loose, start to slightly increase the torque as you bounce. Start ratcheting the torque up - until something gives.

Half the battle is keeping the bit fully seated in the bolthead while bouncing the torque load. Torque ain't worth a damn if the tool doesn't stay seated [squarely]. And take your time; patience pays. Concentrate on staying straight on the bolt while keeping the bit buried in the bolthead and let your body weight bounce the breaker bar. Soon you should hear a very satisfying 'crack' as it breaks loose. Or worse.

I've demonstrated the above on stubborn fasteners to guys and have turned them into believers. Works REAL WELL on lug nuts - where a 1/2" pneu impact @ 125 psi for minutes wouldn't.

Btw: another penetrating oil you might try is Marvel Mystery Oil. Good stuff. Soak, vibration, soak, vibration, yada heat yada, then attack.

And don't hesitate to take the seats out - give yourself plenty of room to work. Why fight a confined work space? Just causes more forehead sweat and uttering of common vulgar phrases about the family tree!
This is one of the best posts I've ever seen on this forum. Should be a stickey. Kudos to the poster for taking the time to write it. The longer the breaker bar the better. A 12" ratchet is one thing - an 18" one is nice. But a 24" or 30" breaker bar will do wonders. What did Atlas say? "Give me a long enough lever and I can move the earth" (or something like that).
 

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I just remembered that on one car in a similar situation, I used a small pipe wrench to grab the outside of the bolt head and small piece of pipe over the handle for some leverage. This finally got it moving and soon I was able to take it the rest of the way out with just the Torx bit. Good luck.
 

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Are you guys sure it is a T-50 Torx? I tried to take the rear bolts out on the weekend to remove the back seat and it didn't fit well, this was with a Snap On socket. I thought it might be a GM T-47 special size.
 

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Are you guys sure it is a T-50 Torx? I tried to take the rear bolts out on the weekend to remove the back seat and it didn't fit well, this was with a Snap On socket. I thought it might be a GM T-47 special size.
I've always used T-50 and it works fine. Torx is supposed to tighten itself as you apply torque so it's supposed to be quite snug. That said, sometimes you do get some dirt in the bolt head, get that out so you are sure the driver gets all the way into the bolt.
 
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