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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got the draw-tite trailer hitch for my LT1 Caprice sedan. Two questions: First, I will be trailering a small boat (about 1700 lbs) for very short distances (less than 10 miles each way) a few times a year - my question is whether I truly need to install the arms that require drilling into the frame? The hitch bar itself installs with 4 bolts that go through the rear bumper/frame holes (where the Buick brace would go). Are those 4 bolts enough? Second, if I have to drill into the frame, the drilling area per the hole pattern on the hitch arms lines up with the weld seam on one side of the frame - that doesnt make me feel too good, is there an issue drilling through the weld seam? Thank you.
 

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I just put a class 3 on my 95 ss (drawtite) to attach a bike rack.

  1. I am convinced you should use the braces going to frame.
  2. The instructions tell you NOT to drill through the weld, force the arms over with a mallet if needed to clear the weld. Mine came with cut shims to make the mounting surface flat at the point of contact making up for the shoulder at the weld.
  3. I wish I would have bought the class 2 as it appears far less obtrusive than the class 3 and I don't really need the extra capacity.
  4. If anyone needs a class 3 hitch at a reduced price lets talk as I only need a class 2 and would prefer one. Shipping would suck though. I think I could let it go for $200 shipped in the US.??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the replies; I just ordered the class II; I had a real hard time getting comfortable where the holes would have lined up and I too dont need the class III heft; from looking at the class II install instrcutions, while I will still need to drill into the frame, it looks like it is much further toward the back where the weld seam is minimal so I think I will have much less of an issue; I too would sell the brand new class III cheap...thanks again
 

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Spec capacity difference between II and III was so slight I just did a Class II. I could swear I caught existing frameholes for full install, but drilling the frame would not be a big enough deal that I would have remembered it anyway. I haul 1 1/2 tons of dirt and gravel anytime I like with mine.
 

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Draw-tite hitch install

I just got the draw-tite trailer hitch for my LT1 Caprice sedan. Two questions: First, I will be trailering a small boat (about 1700 lbs) for very short distances (less than 10 miles each way) a few times a year - my question is whether I truly need to install the arms that require drilling into the frame? The hitch bar itself installs with 4 bolts that go through the rear bumper/frame holes (where the Buick brace would go). Are those 4 bolts enough? Second, if I have to drill into the frame, the drilling area per the hole pattern on the hitch arms lines up with the weld seam on one side of the frame - that doesnt make me feel too good, is there an issue drilling through the weld seam? Thank you.

bhk,

Was the Class III hitch Draw-tite Max-Frame Receiver Hitch 75146? Did you have any issues with the exhaust?
 
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