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You'll want a good transmission jack to lower/raise the unit if you haven't a lift/garage. No videos but plenty of info on the steps required. The crossmember is what many have difficulty w/, both out and in.

And that length of rubber hose you can't figure out where it attaches to...it's open and doesn't connect to anything.

Do a thorough inspection of the undercarriage for rust. Treat this/these while it's out. Remove the sheet metal heat shields for proper inspection.
 

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Thanks all of you guys above^

And especially the tranny ladyboy video :D


A few questions>

But anyways I don't have a tranny jack but I was going to use a regular jack with a plank on it with a cargo tie down to support it.

1. I have a question that site said it needed 19 inchs of ground clearance to get it out. I guess they meant getting it out by rolling it out OFF the jack? Cause 19 inches is too low for that tranny to be on the jack all together. The height of the tranny is 19 or so I believe? SO im thinking it would be a total of 6 inches or more height.

2. I guess I can support the engine with a floor jack and a plank under the engine oil pan without doing damage

3. I believe the starter doesn't need to be removed?

4 . Should I use red or blue locktite on the drive plate bolts ?
or on any other parts on this project im doing?? such as TC, drive shaft etc???

5. I hear I can use Vaseline instead of transgel when rebuilding it.


Thanks again. For some reason im not getting email responces delivered to my email addy from this site so it may take a while before I reply thankscwm3
1. Use your system and then when it's free and down, wiggle it off the jack, onto the floor and slide it out. That's the "easy" part. Getting the new one in the same way requires muscle. Best is to lift the car enough so you can slide the jack and the trans out in one piece. Remove front wheels. A trans jack really does make it easier. Harbor freight...

2. Yep. You can even leave it unsupported in the rear and it'll just rest on the right and left mounts once the trans is unbolted. Best to support it under the pan though. Just don't support it beneath the flexplate (or by the front crank hub/H. balancer either for that matter). You never want to support the weight of the engine on the crankshaft.

3. No. Remove it. Need access for the bell housing cover bolts. Once cover is removed, you can access the flexplate to TC bolts.

4. You won't remove the flexplate unless you want to replace the rear main seal. Even then, methinks the RMS can be accessed w/ it on. You will be bolting the TC to the flexplate. Use loctite here. I used blue. Once differential side U-joint is unbolted, drive shaft slides straight back and out. keep a pan behind the tailshaft. Fluid will pour out if tilted to the rear. use loctite on the U-joint bolts on reinstall. Mark the driveshaft to make sure it goes back in correctly (1 of 2 possible positions).

5. Use what's recommended. Why cut corners?

Final fill w/ Dexron VI. I use wally world Supertech. Good stuff. Make sure forward lines to radiator are flushed of old fluid.You want 100% new fluid.

What are you doing about the TC? If reusing current, drain as completely as possible and pre-fill w/ around 3 qts new fluid prior to mating it to the trans. Mate it to the trans properly/fully. If a reman, consider upping to a 2000 stall S-10/corvette. If aftermarket 9 incher, additional cooling will be required.

Invest in a deeper pan. For city driving, this is particularly recommended. OEM truck pan is just fine.

A shift kit would be recommended as well, but installation skill set/difficulty increases w/ this vs. a standard trans swap. Don't want to scare you off from the idea, but...
 
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