Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So today I was changing out my radiator when disconnecting the lines everything went smooth until I got to the transmission lines the fitting was so rusted that it would not spin when I was trying to unscreward the line when it turned it turned the line also so long story short the metal line twisted up it was the only way to get the damn line of the radiator so now I have to fix the line any ideas from you guys would be so helpful or should I purchase new lines I couldn't even find em on line I jus say repair kits
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
635 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ok thanks man I appreciate the help I'll have to look into trying to repair the hose not sure how to do that
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
635 Posts
Ok thanks man I appreciate the help I'll have to look into trying to repair the hose not sure how to do that
You would need to get a new section of metal line the correct size and then bend it to replace the damaged section and then flair the end of the new section and the original section in an area that is straight and connect them together and then reconnect to the radiator. Not hard if you have the right tools for flaring and bending.

Mike--Hamilton Chevy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,957 Posts
Woah! Over a C note on that tube! If you ain't fubered any portion of seal to the tank I'd say a perfect time to consider a cheap external cooler. Cheaper fix, and better for the fluid too? Justathought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,957 Posts
D'oh! Ok, a real SS thanks Mike. Hey, xander maybe search what the downsides are to bypassing the rad cooler altogether.

Then again, I should think there'd be available stub pieces of flared tubing and the right fitting at NAPA or somewhere to splice in instead of buying the whole line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,986 Posts
So today I was changing out my radiator when disconnecting the lines everything went smooth until I got to the transmission lines the fitting was so rusted that it would not spin when I was trying to unscreward the line when it turned it turned the line also so long story short the metal line twisted up it was the only way to get the damn line of the radiator so now I have to fix the line any ideas from you guys would be so helpful or should I purchase new lines I couldn't even find em on line I jus say repair kits
Most likely the Nut fused itself to the Metal tube and when wrenching it off, it twisted the Metal tube up. The nut needs to spin freely on the tube or it will twist. Wont help you much now, but in the future try to spray the fitting/metal tube with some PB Blaster or similiar and soak it for a day or 2. Then take some fine sand paper and sand the metal line clean getting as close to the back of the nut as possible. The key is to break the fusion of the nut to the metal tube. Most cases once the nut is free to spin the tube wont kink up on ya.

Bummer. You may want to try to replace just the end but here is the line if you want to buy the whole thing. That is the most expensive line of them all.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9C1-Caprice-Police-Trans-Cooler-Line-10269708-Genuine-GM-1994-1996-Impala-SS-OEM-/390385170204?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

Mike--Hamilton Chevy
Relacing the entire line like what Mike offers is your only option if you intend to keep the car stock. If you don't care about it looking stock and just want to repair it, you got a few options.

The fitting in the Rad is a 5/8" inverted Flare and believe its a 18 thread. As was mentioned, you could just get a 1 foot lenth of metal tube (AutoZone, Advance, etc) that already has the correct flare and nuts on both ends. Cut it in half leaving a 6"-9" piece, put a 45* bend in it and use the 1 side with the nut/flare to thread into the rad. Now you could just get some Brass Plumbing Compression fittings (3/8") to go onto the cut end of the tube and then get a barbed brass fitting to go onto that. Do the same on the other side of the line by cutting off the Rubber hose and Crimp and just hose clamp a section of hose in between the 2 brass hose barbs.

This would be very easy, cost maybe $20 or so and fix will last a long time. The key thing to note here is that not only are you fixing what got damaged but you are also removing the Leak Prone Hose crimps that will eventually leak anyway. While you are at it, just go aead and cut the other Tranny line, get another brass compression fitting and hose barb and do the other line to match them up. The other end of that hose just goes to a hose barb anyway and is clamped to the metal tube.

If you want to go all out and fix it for good and look good, consider going with AN fittings and Braided hose. The parts needed will cost more but the overall hoses will look much better and you do have some options with Hose type/color and fittings.

This thread will have info and pics of both the Brass fittings and AN Hose setup. I used to run the compression fittings frm home depot and it worked great and lasted for years. I just got tired of the look and upgraded them to AN fittings when doing my oil cooler lines as well. Its a little more involved and I never had worked with braded before doing these. I just learned from some video links that I found and if you mess up the hose, you can always start over. Hopefully this will give you some ideas/options and again nothing wrong with the cheapo brass fittings.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=1248554
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
@Moby I dnt think I wanna use the original lines if there leak prone I dnt wanna replace the lines again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
@4 doorss do I just go up to the autopart store an ask for tube that has the 5/8" inverted flare on it
And
Once I have cut it an bent the line I put the cut side (opposite of the flare) in to the rubber hose that I cut the crimp off of
I guess I'm kind of confused how do I connect the metal tube to the compression fitting
Im a better visual learner sorry to be makin this hard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,986 Posts
@4 doorss do I just go up to the autopart store an ask for tube that has the 5/8" inverted flare on it
And
Once I have cut it an bent the line I put the cut side (opposite of the flare) in to the rubber hose that I cut the crimp off of
I guess I'm kind of confused how do I connect the metal tube to the compression fitting
Im a better visual learner sorry to be makin this hard
yes, they should have Straight Sections of Steel Fuel Line in assorted lengths that is 45* flared on both ends and has a nut on both sides. Something like this that is 12" long....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AGS-BL-612-Fuel-Line-For-Domestic-Vehicles-12-L-3-8-Outer-Dia-Natural-Steel-/141885526513

May be a good idea to take the Twisted piece with you and match up the Pipe size (almost certain it's 3/8") and to make sure the nut is the same thread as what was there.

If you look at the pic in the Ebay Link, what you would need to do is use a tubing cutter to cut it to the length you will need keeping in mind the 45* bend you will put in it. The end that is already flared and has a nut on it will thread into the Rad fitting. The now Straight cut end you have will take a 3/8" Compression Fitting like this from Home Depot, Lowes, whoever.....

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/63031207?src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=63031207

...and install it on the Cut end. You will discard the Nut and Ferrel from the other side of the Compression fitting and replace it with a Hose Barb that threads onto the End of the compression fitting. the brass section where you find the Compression fitting will have the Hose barbs right there too, so just find one that threads on.

If you then go to the other side of the Rubber hose near the Belt Tensioner, you just use your tubing cutter to cut just behind the Hose Crimp section and do the same thing there with a compression fitting and hose barb. Now just connect the 2 hose barbs with some hose and a worm gear clamp or 2 on each end and GTG.

Just be sure to debur the hard lines where you cut them and also be sure to get Rubber Hose that is compatible with trans fluid.

Again look at the picture in the link I posted and you will see what the Brass fittings should look like on the metal lines. Here is another pic that may better show them near the tensioner pulley.....

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,957 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,986 Posts
Or, just this;

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/63032015?fromRR=Y

Saves a bend, and can't equate to that much reduced flow. Set up correctly no rubber needed either?????

There you go. That fitting would work if you did not want/could not put a 90* bend in the Metal line. It may not leave you much room between the rad fitting and this fitting though. You will still need a Hose Barb for the Hose on the other end.

Not sure what you mean about "no Rubber needed" though. Cause you do need the Flexible hose in between the engine and the Rad to allow for engine movement.
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top