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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just had installed clear image tri-y gen 2, and I keep having melting problems with the 2 plug/wires on driver side in the back (away from front bumper)!?!

Car runs great when I put a heat shield around , but it keep shorting out after short rides.

What is the correct way to run the wires???

Do I need high heat wires???

It's a 96 imp BTW....... thanks for any help guys!


Edit----- is there any pics of how to run the wires or protect t them??? Thanks! I really want to get this on the road!
 

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It would be better for you to post pics of what you have for suggestions on corrections and improvements. You may have had someone before you alter the original wire routing. IIRC there is a steel guide that holds those wires tight to the block.

Mine have been fine for a year with my tri-y setup, and training the wires was not noteworthy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll get a pic.... My buddy might have fixed it tonight ... But I'm over 0.08% watching the series ..so ill find out tomorrow , thanks for the reply
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes stock heads.... Getting a set of msd wires tomorrow, would there be any issue if I change just the driver side( where problem is)... Pass side is delco, just curious if it might cause a problem

I'm so mad At the guy who did my exhaust .... Now I got these huge headers in my my way!! :-|
 

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What i did with my gen II was get an extra long# 7 made and just ran it over the valve cover and straight down. Your thread actually made me realize why i had 2 wires that were so damn long!
 

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If it is the back wires on the drivers side, run the wires in the wire tray that is factory and teh last wire will go past the spark plug towards the firewall and loop back to plug itself. I have had my tri Y's for two years or so, and MSD wires and no problems. This is how I routed them. I wouldn't do one side in MSD and the other as factory, don't think it would cause a problem but you never know. The passenger side is a bitch to do yes, but just do it and forget about it :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies guys.... I have a feeling I should do both sides, my buddy who builds hot rods and has a 9sec chevelle says it doesn't matter... But those opti sparks, you never know!!

If I'm doing it again ; the air pump is out

My buddy lended me a spark plug wire crimpper if I have to cut
 

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As suggested above, use the factory routing and metal bracket. Do both sides the same. Use Magnacore as I was never able to get them to melt in 30,000 miles while resting directly on my headers. (Yes, i tried many years ago when someone asked if there were wire problems with our headers). I don't sell Magnacore but I wouldn't use anything else.

Airpump should already be out of there. :) You'll be amazed at how much more room there is getting to the opti-spark.

I hope this helps.
 

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Somebody in my area did a complete routing of all spark plug wires over the valve covers when he built an engine for a 90s LT1 powered Camaro that was going to get long tube headers, Basically routed the wires up the front of the block, and used the wire loom holders attached to each valve cover bolt to keep the wires in place. It will require making your own spark plug wire set but should eliminate most of the problem for getting around the driver side header. In my cars I have just ziptied the #7 wire to the brake lines to keep it out of the way. Just as long as you keep the wires away from direct contact with the headers they will be fine, as even with "high temp" wires they are only rated for ambient temperatures not direct contact with the headers or manifolds. - Peter
 

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Somebody in my area did a complete routing of all spark plug wires over the valve covers when he built an engine for a 90s LT1 powered Camaro that was going to get long tube headers, Basically routed the wires up the front of the block, and used the wire loom holders attached to each valve cover bolt to keep the wires in place. It will require making your own spark plug wire set but should eliminate most of the problem for getting around the driver side header. In my cars I have just ziptied the #7 wire to the brake lines to keep it out of the way. Just as long as you keep the wires away from direct contact with the headers they will be fine, as even with "high temp" wires they are only rated for ambient temperatures not direct contact with the headers or manifolds. - Peter
I do believe that they have OVTC kits now a days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok...... Update, got the two wires replaced and things running good!!!

But I have a question, the guy who put my headers on used some kind of red rtv instead of gaskets??? Bad choice or is that ok??? Got around 2 grand into the exhaust right now, just wondering?? I asked him and he swears by it... Did I get screwed??
 

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I wouldn't think so, although really I personally wouldn't use the RTV he used, Turbo guys and a couple friends of mine that are pretty damn good turbo engine builders swear by it as well. You will probably be alright, but Earl's pressure masters are the way to go, in my eyes.
 

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I just installed my gen 2 tri-y's on my 95 ss and the number 5 wire is sitting on the header, I think im just gonna throw some good thick heat protecting junk on their and call it a day.
 

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As suggested above, use the factory routing and metal bracket. Do both sides the same. Use Magnacore as I was never able to get them to melt in 30,000 miles while resting directly on my headers. (Yes, i tried many years ago when someone asked if there were wire problems with our headers). I don't sell Magnacore but I wouldn't use anything else.

Airpump should already be out of there. :) You'll be amazed at how much more room there is getting to the opti-spark.

I hope this helps.
Question about Magnecor wire, they have 3 numbers for us... #80205 (8mm), #87205 (7mm) and #85205 (KV 8.5mm). What do you use ?
 

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Glad to her this issues was resolved and sorry for not being on here for so long. I was locked out. Anyways, I am back on the forum. I used the 8.5 mm Magnecor.

As for the silicone sealant instead of gaskets, that should be fine. As you saw, we machine our header flanges nice and flat and you should have no issues with leaks. just make sure to check and tighten the header bolts periodically. The last bolt on each side is the one which wants to work itself loose for some reason.
 

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Amazing what a simple SEARCH go produce. I have an issue with a bad "misfire" since I installed my tri-y's. Figured it had to be the #5 plug wire touching the header. Never had a problem before the exhaust swap. Will look into Megnecor (8.5mm).
 

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I have that set up GEN II and Magnecor, no problems EXCEPT actually getting the wires to seat on the plugs can be a bitch, due to clearance with the header. On one side I think I actually loosened the header to get the boot on. But, as stated above, do it and then forget about it. :)
 

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I have that set up GEN II and Magnecor, no problems EXCEPT actually getting the wires to seat on the plugs can be a bitch, due to clearance with the header. On one side I think I actually loosened the header to get the boot on. But, as stated above, do it and then forget about it. :)
Be sure and use dielectric grease to make it easier to double click the wires to the plugs. By the way, I've got long tubes that make those triy's look like childsplay. :)
 

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Be sure and use dielectric grease to make it easier to double click the wires to the plugs. By the way, I've got long tubes that make those triy's look like childsplay. :)
x2 on the easier boot install. Dry plug wire boots suck! LOL


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
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