[Jeff Green]

My point in respond to your thread was not to crush your dream of doing this. You could shift the twin Screw forward when you build the intake to clear the cowl. My point to the comment about Hogan or anyone else was they not going to have knowledge of what the issues are so unless you have it figured out and tell them exactly what you need or you will get a design that doesn't work for you. They have no idea what its going in and even if they knew it wouldn't really mean anything to them. They do race cars and in racing if it doesn't fit then cut a bigger hole Now the problem with shifting the twin screw forward is that also moves the drive shaft futher out and the pulleys/belt may not line up anymore. Thats what I mean by you have to figure out all the details before you ever start.

The comment about just using a LS engine could be the best way to go. It's a package that already has been in production so nothing for you to figure out. You said you were going to use an LS computer so that could be flashed with the stock LS program for the blower model of engine they have. So you could do that if you know how to wrench. Small issues like exhaust and and a few other things but that would be a much easier project than a one off LT. But you need to check the height of that LS engine with the supercharger on it and make sure it will clear your hood. I don't know the answer to that off the top of my head.

It does take everything else I said but could be done on the LT. One off's are cool but it does take a lot.

Not trying to talk you out of what you want but also hard to say nothing and let you spend a bunch of money before you understand what your in for this project. Maybe go the LS blower version is the best answer.

Hope thats a helpful answwer.

 

[Ratmaster]

I would never swap the motor. LS defeats the purpose. The whole point for this was for it to be a cool build using what the factory gave us. The next best thing is a 6-71 472.... It's been done plenty of times and I think 500cad even makes a full kit for a 6-71. The 472 and 500 cads are far stronger than a Chevrolet big block, weigh less, and they are safer to make more cubes with.

I know you are not trying to crush my dreams Jeff. As I said I appreciate you leveling with me and I appreciate the honest, and experienced, advice you have given. Unfortunatley, I just do not have the ability to accomplish this or the time to try to learn on my own. I am the only person I know who is this interested in cars so I really have no where to turn for help but here (and it looks like no one on here knows who to turn to). It's a shame because I really would have loved to make this happen.

Remember I thought the Buick was hideous until I geared it and continued to fall in love with them (I think it's beyond love at this point actually haha. I spent about 6 months driving my lt1 bird before I absolutely hated the car and bought another bbody). I think 71 coupe devilles are one of the best looking cars of all time so I am sure once I own one I'll fall even harder for it. Talk about wide room inside hahah.

http://www.cad500parts.com/gallery.htm

Picture that without that awful hood scoop and just a hole cut in the stock hood.



I'd like to leave this thread open and maybe in the future someone with the skills may want to work with me to accomplish this. As I said I am going to talk to Kenne Bell even though I am sure they will laugh at me. If I do not find any reasonable leads by the endish of summer big bad cad it is haha.

 

[Ratmaster]

I re-read your post again Jeff and I want to be sure that you know that I have truly appreciated your words of advice. You have explained to me that while it can be done, it certainly could not be done by me. Unfortunate but that is the case. I am very happy that you have answered my questions, and while you have burst my buble lol... It was a bubble in need of bursting, clearly. Your answers have been extremely helpful! I now fully understand why no one bothers to try!

But again as mentioned before if anyone knows of any fabricators or shops that may be able (or care) to take the proper measurements and then produce an efficient manifold I would love to hear from you. The dream is not fully killed as I have until the end of the summer to find a capable and reputable company to help me with this. I live in Massachusetts and have a roadmaster as a winter beater that could be used to obtain all of the required measurements. So if anyone knows of a shop speak up! I also have a spare intake manifold in the closet that I would be willing to donate to science. And of course I am willing to travel within reason.

 

[JetJoe]

I am having a hard time following you. You say that you would never swap the motor, but then go on about a Caddy swap?? I don't think I have ever seen a b-body with a Caddy. Lots of ls and BBC swaps though. If you are intent on a twin screw LT1, your best bet is to get in touch with the Cornel guy. You obviously must have a large budget for you project and you know what they say ...Money Talks!

 

[Ratmaster]

The caddy wouldn't be a swap. Sorry for the confusion. What I want is to build a very fast, very streetable, large roomy car using what it came with from the factory. That means if the reared, tranny, or block can only handle X amount of horsepower (while using the strongest internals I can find) then X horsepower is my goal.

The lt1 b body's seem to have great starting points as far as the block, transmission case, and rear end housing are concerned for building upon.

If no one can point me in the right direction to get me where I'd want to be in this project (finding someone capable of building me a manifold and pulley setup that would fit under the stock hood with with liquid cooled kenne bell sitting on top while cutting no corners). As I have mentioned I would not be able to do this and as such my main question is as follows. Who is capable of doing this? And then, equally as important, if the person/shop is capable and reputable would they have any interest in working on this with me? If a shop were and wanted to produce more to start selling to other lt1 guys that's great.

I'd need someone who cared to take the proper measurements and someone who can understand and, more importantly, appreciate why I want to build it in such a picky manner. Someone who can appreciate the idea of a Stock looking roadmaster sitting on white walls at a car show with a massive liquid cooled kenne bell under the hood.

These lt1s remind me of the 427 galaxies and 409 Chevys of the early 60s. My parents have a 64 Biscayne 409 but what really inspired this project was a black 427 galaxy I used to see every year as a kid at car shows. It looked like granny's car. Had white walls, a leather bench seat, BUT it had a 4 speed on the floor and a 427 under the hood. The car was all original but I always loved the thoughts of getting a blower to somehow also sit under the hood.

When I was mentioning a Cadillac I was referring to building a 71-76 coupe deville instead of a bbody if I can't find the proper help. Same idea here the only difference is that it has been done and there are kits available. When I say it's the same idea I am referring to the 472 or 500, th400 and the rear axel being great items that came with the car from the factory to build upon. Obviously the cad big block and th400 are far better units to build than an lt1 and 4l60e. So my comment was not to swap a 472 into a bbody (although a 472 in a 96 fleetwood sounds pretty damn cool haha). It was merely meant to reflect on the fact that if I cannot find someone to help me make my dream car happen (lt1 bbody) then building a 71-76 coupe deville on the same principles may be the right way for me to go. Because it has been done and cost of entry for a mint 71-76 is also very low. I hope that clears up any confusion I have caused.

As I mentioned I have not yet given up on the dream yet. I will not even start looking for the car I'm going to build until the end of august/September. So I have that long to get someone crafty interested or big cad it will be. I have emailed cornel and not heard back but I am sure he is extremely busy.

Again, I understand the expense involved but the costs will be spread out over time and that I am ok with. Would it be safe to say 30k would be a realistic budget to get the bbody where I want it to be (including EVERY little thing, tranny, rear, suspension, ect.)? If it is then this is a no brainer for me. I could finance a perfect used iron blocked Shelby (a car I do like) for around 30k and do a pulley and tune OR build the car of my dreams, spreading the costs out over time (essentially mimicking financing with the added bonus that I am never required to make payments at a set time). For me the dream car wins no contest whether it ends up being an lt1 or a 472. I'm sure a lot of you are convinced I'm off my rocker by now but I do have a very different taste in cars.

I am in no rush as I want whatever I end up building to be done right the first time. I will except headaches before and during the build but I hope to avoid any headaches once the car is finished. That will cost time and money and so be it. When the car is done and done right it will be well worth it to see the look on people's faces at the local car shows when they realize grannies old boat is out their embarrassing the new performance cars. Not to mention the looks on the faces of the porsche drivers when a 4-5k pound granny mobile pulls like a train on them. (; Hopefully, some little kid will be admiring it at a car show 20 years from now and be inspired. Just like that galaxy inspired me years ago. I'm emotionally invested what can I say.

 

[Jeff Green]

The caddy wouldn't be a swap. Sorry for the confusion. What I want is to build a very fast, very streetable, large roomy car using what it came with from the factory. That means if the reared, tranny, or block can only handle X amount of horsepower (while using the strongest internals I can find) then X horsepower is my goal.

The lt1 b body's seem to have great starting points as far as the block, transmission case, and rear end housing are concerned for building upon.

.

I can give you the answer to the above and what you think about the Impala is correct. Done the right way you can leave everything in it and run 8's in a streetable car with the factory basic stuff all still in it. So leave the AC, the power everything, the factory carpet, seats and so on and still beat 90 percent of the door race cars at any track on a given Saturday night. We can even leave the exhaust on it to the rear bumper even at the track. All my times are with the full exhaust, no open headers. No changes from the street to the track other than slicks on the rear so it would be something you can have and not have to know a lot to play with.

If your serious and have the money to do so I would consider building this for you but it wouldn't happen until fall. I'm the only one with a car like this and know what it takes to make it work. I said 8's because thats what my car will run this year over the prior years running 9's. Based on the math I have it figured out finally. I think you should stay in the 9's or maybe even 10's as thats fast enough, too much power to even use on the street and you will never find another Impala with everything in it thats as fast. I'ts also a detune of what I have been doing so I know it will work without issues. You would not be pushing the stuff like I am so the problems go away. With the right setup, or my setup, you will never break the tranny or rearend. Thats the 4L60E and factory 10 bolt just like you want. The scew is the only thing I would have to figure out. If it will not flow the CFM I can then it's not going to make as much power. so thats something we would have to know before you set your expections.

Again if you're serious then it's a ton of details. This would not be a hard project for me because I can copy what I already know. Ever figuring it out in te first place was the hard part.

Like I said, I'm not a shop and just do my own stuff or some on the side.

 

[Ratmaster]

I am very interested in speaking with you further Jeff. It seems as though it may be difficult to come together on this as you live in Indiana and I am in MA. I've been pondering the idea for an hour or so now and I'm just not sure how we could make it work. Do you have an idea in mind?

I just read you're thread about testing the waters for a kit based on your setup and was impressed that you seemed to have quite a bit more knowledge than the company that jumped in and in my own opinion somewhat hijacked your thread.

I was thinking maybe if I got the car where I wanted it to be sans the twin screw (rear, tranny, fuel system, and suspension done) maybe I could get the car out you're way to do all the engine bay work. But again this may be difficult since we are at such a distance. Another potential problem is if I get the car where I want it to be and then we find that we cannot make the kb fit where am I at. This leads me to believe that I need to be absolutely positive that we can find a way to make it fit and that we can come up with a intake that flows enough.

I don't think I need 1400hp as this will be mainly a street warrior/show car but I wouldn't be happy if I couldn't consistently run in the 10's. What is a reasonable HP goal to have a full weight bbody run mid-high tens consistently?
I don't want the car to have so much power that it's completely useless on the street either. Am I asking for to much?

Peak HP numbers are not what I'm after.... I want that fat torque curve.

I'd be very interested to hear how you would like to go about this Jeff.

One other question. In that old thread of yours you mentioned how you melted a 14lb bag of ice on every run. Is there anyway to get away from these heat issues or is this build going to require I carry a cooler full of ice around with me? Excuse my lack of knowledge here but am I correct in my thinking that by using a massive blower and then by not making it work very hard I could avoid the whole ice trick? Or am I destined to carry ice if I want this car to be consistent?

 

[matthimself456]

At the level of build you want the cost to ship a car from Mass. to Indiana and back will barely show up as a small percentage of the cost.

A stock appearing Roadmaster that runs 10's on a Kenne Bell LT1 would be impressive, however a stock appearing Roadmaster that runs 10's on a turbo LSX for 20% of the cost seems more inspiring to me...



Honestly I don't see this ending well. You seem bitter that no-one offers an off-the-shelf kit for what you want and you seem to think there are no shops or trustworthy mechanics to be found. In reality your goals and your self-imposed, pre-decided path to get there don't really jive all that well. Not saying its impossible just that its going to be a very complicated way to get results that could be easily attained by other means.

There are dozens of shops across the country who could do what you want but they will need the whole car and a ton of cash to do a good job. To develop the blower system from scratch and professionally build a whole car you could probably buy a Cobra to go fast in and have enough cash left over to buy your Coup deVille for a cruiser.

I'm not trying to talk you out of anything you want to do, just warning you that to avoid disappointment and frustration you need to make sure your goals, project plan, and budget are well defined and line up with each other.

If you do go through with it and Jeff is willing to do it you couldn't pick anyone better, but if he values his time at a similar rate a shop would you're going to have more into this than the $30k or so you are currently guessing.

 

[Ratmaster]

Matt while I understand where you are coming from I will state again what I have said numerous times. Either I will build what I want in a Bbody or I will choose a different platform. I think I've gone over this but I will state it again. I fully understand that an ls swap would be far easier. To me putting an ls in a lt1 car is akin to putting a 396 in a 409 car..... Sacrilege lol. The point is if I am going to build a car that I intend on keeping as far into the forseeable future as possible then I intend on it being everything I want it to be. I do not want to have the money in the car and then say to myself why didn't I just pony up the extra cash to have what I want. I want this to be done right the first time. Like Jeff said measure twice cut once. The same principle applies here. There is no point in building an ls swap if I will regret the decision latter. I know this may not make sense to you Matt but I think Jeff fully appreciates where I am coming from on this build.

My concerns have nothing to do with shipping. I bought my lt1 formula in Wisconsin and my first lt1 roadmaster in Georgia so I am not afraid to drive the car out to Indiana and fly home. Shipping costs are not the issue at all but I can see how you have perceived it that way. I was more concerned that I would be so far away while the build was in process. I am not afraid to wrench although I have very limited experience and skills but would have liked to have been part of the process. You know help out along the way. I've done most of the work to my FBody besides the converter and the 373s.

Matt as I have also mentioned I have 3 years with my FBody and I hardly ever want to drive it. So the cobra is not something I would buy.

I am not bitter that there are no off the shelf kits for our cars and I understand that the Gen2 small block had a short life and since the superior ls motors have shown up not much R&D can be justified for an outdated platform. My outrage was in response to Jeff saying that a speed shop wouldn't care to take the measurements to make the application fit and the comment about mease being a crook. I know there are good shops and mechanics out there. Slowhawk right here in MA is a fantastic example of that and he has even been nice enough to begrudgingly work on my LT1 (he hates lt1s haha). I was a bit upset and I have re-read what I wrote and sometimes things just don't read exactly how you intended them to. I apologize for that.

Anyways I am serious about this. I am sorry I have caused skepticism for you Matt but I suppose I could have worded something's a little better in my previous posts. I will try to get a better feel for how my posts "read" from here on out.

I guess the most logical avenue from here would be for me to talk to Jeff further. If we can work out what my true goals should be together and how we would build the motor (what cubes, what cam, and EVERYTHING else) then we could decide the best parts for the drivetrain and suspension which I could accomplish here in MA. Once everything was finished aside from the motor I could drive or ship the car to Indiana for Jeff to do the motor and all the fab work to fit the blower.

This is of course if you really want to do this Jeff. If you would seriously build the motor and do the fab work needed I would like your advice on how the trans, rear and suspension should be set up to handle the motor to all work nicely together as a package. Of course we would also have to try to come up with a ball park on the cost (for parts and your paid services of course) I know there will be plenty of surprise costs with this build but with what you have already encountered with your build I am sure if anyone could give me an idea it would be you Jeff. Does my above plan sound feasible? Or how would you suggest going about this if you are truly interested in doing it?

Jeff I have started to read all I can in the threads you have started over the years. Let me know if you would like to ponder this further with me.

 

[Ratmaster]

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?p=2274369



Anyone know who owns the car in post #910?

 

[tenor39]

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?p=2274369



Anyone know who owns the car in post #910?

That would be Keith Mease. That car no longer exists. If I ever get a house again, my car will be the one with the Kenne Bell on it. I almost have all of the parts that I need. I had one of the original Eaton blower kits on my '95.

 

[Ratmaster]

What did that kit cost originally? Would it be feasable to obtain an old mease setup and buy a liquid cooled kenne bell for a lightning? I believe that's what the mease setup used right?

 

[tenor39]

What did that kit cost originally? Would it be feasable to obtain an old mease setup and buy a liquid cooled kenne bell for a lightning? I believe that's what the mease setup used right?

If you mean the newer Kenne Bell blowers with "liquid cooling", that's purely for the drive mechanism of the blower. You'd need either an aftercooler or water/methanol injection - or both. I will have both if I ever get the car back up. The original Mease manifold was for the Eaton M112 from a 1st gen Ford Lightning. The cost back in '05 was about $5K.

 

[Ratmaster]

I'm trying to picture how the setup would work best. Should it be attempted like it is done in fords? I believe they have an intercooler between the blower and intake manifold with a front mounted heat exchanger?? Excuse me as I am really a novice to anything forced induction.

I know I like it though I have a friend with a cobra and boy is it a hoot. My parents V is also fun but not as raw or exciting as the cobra IMO. They also have an 05 turbo s 911 but the turbo lag is very disappointing after spending time in the cobra and the V.

I'll have to post pics of the cars. Maybe my GF can help me do that. I have pics of the calypso green fleetwood that had 31k miles and the Georgia roadmaster I mentioned earlier. I could also post pics of the firebird, 409, 911, and the old ls6 V/ the current V which I was just informed is a 2010 and not an 09 as I said earlier........ Kind of highjacking my own thread lol so ignore this and I will start a new thread with the pics of the lt1s this weekend hopefully.

Do you mind sharing how your intercooler/aftercooler setup works Jeff?

Also the pictures of mease's kenne bell set up looks to devastate the plans of it ever fitting under the stock hood.... I wonder if there is anyway to shave the height to make it, or another kenne bell, fit?

 

[Jeff Green]

I am very interested in speaking with you further Jeff. It seems as though it may be difficult to come together on this as you live in Indiana and I am in MA. I've been pondering the idea for an hour or so now and I'm just not sure how we could make it work. Do you have an idea in mind?

I just read you're thread about testing the waters for a kit based on your setup and was impressed that you seemed to have quite a bit more knowledge than the company that jumped in and in my own opinion somewhat hijacked your thread.

I was thinking maybe if I got the car where I wanted it to be sans the twin screw (rear, tranny, fuel system, and suspension done) maybe I could get the car out you're way to do all the engine bay work. But again this may be difficult since we are at such a distance. Another potential problem is if I get the car where I want it to be and then we find that we cannot make the kb fit where am I at. This leads me to believe that I need to be absolutely positive that we can find a way to make it fit and that we can come up with a intake that flows enough.

I don't think I need 1400hp as this will be mainly a street warrior/show car but I wouldn't be happy if I couldn't consistently run in the 10's. What is a reasonable HP goal to have a full weight bbody run mid-high tens consistently?
I don't want the car to have so much power that it's completely useless on the street either. Am I asking for to much?

Peak HP numbers are not what I'm after.... I want that fat torque curve.

I'd be very interested to hear how you would like to go about this Jeff.

One other question. In that old thread of yours you mentioned how you melted a 14lb bag of ice on every run. Is there anyway to get away from these heat issues or is this build going to require I carry a cooler full of ice around with me? Excuse my lack of knowledge here but am I correct in my thinking that by using a massive blower and then by not making it work very hard I could avoid the whole ice trick? Or am I destined to carry ice if I want this car to be consistent?

All good questions and thanks for reading not just what I had said in the past but other people on here. It shows your effort to understand this project. I would normally say you need to PM me so we don't clutter up this thread but I reminded myself, it's your thread

Some type of cooler is needed if you're going to make any real boost pressure. It can be done without one but you're on thin ice running the engine hard if its above 70 degrees. I did a setup like that with no cooler and even went a 9.61 at 147 in my Impala. But that was in 45 degree air at Atlanta and you could never get that again in even 70 degree air. I don't know about the KB but most screws don't make the heat a centrifical does. There should be a spec on at X CFM or X pressure what the heat value was. We can take that number to an engineer I know at Bell and findout what size core you need, and that should answer the hood clearence question as to how high the screw would sit on the intake.

It takes a lot of power to move 4500 pounds 10 anything. Pretty simple if this was just a race car but I know what you want. You want it to drive nice, idle nice and act good on the street. You don't want it to be buzzing on the highway because you have 4.11 or 4.88 gears in it. So you will want something in the 3's and thats not what you do for good ET at the track. So it becomes much harder to make a REAL street car fast.

I think that could be the next most important question you need to decide. Do you want a street car thats fast for what it is or are you willing to not have the best street car to go as fast at the track as it could? It sounds really like you want the best street car that maybe would go to the track a few times a year. Thats a compeletly different setup than a car built to go as fast as it can at the track. You want torque, just like you said and a power band in the 1500 to 5500 range. Not 3000 to 7000 plus like a race car. The best street car to drive and pushs you in the seat with just a little throttle will not put up the best numbers at the track.

I also think 30K may not do this as your looking at having to do everything. You have time to think about it, get more detail and that will help nail down the cost. If you get to the point that this is what you're going to do then I would do it as I like different and one offs. I can make the intake or anything else needed so worry about all the other stuff. You need a clear picture of what the final result is. I can help you with the trade offs for this or that so you can decide what you think is best for you. You're the one that has to be happy with the final product so make it what you want it to be.

One off's are cool but they also are the most expensive way you could do something. Then again a Fleetwood that drives nice, everything works in it that the factory put in it and it can run 10's is kind of like having the Batmobile sitting in your garage It would be a very cool car!!

 

[Ratmaster]

Jeff,

If you would like me to PM you from here on out I would be glad to do so. However, I think it might be nice for others to be able to read through all of this info in the future but let me know what you would prefer.

I fully intend on using a water to air intercooler.... I will not do it without it. My question was will I need to carry ice to be consistent? Or is that a requirement for you because you're centrifugal supercharger creates more heat (than a twin screw) and you are pushing so much boost?

I'm fine with big boost without it creating race car like issues such as heat soak.

Do you have an idea (estimate) of what X would be to consistently run high 10's even on an 80 degree day without any real weight savings? I know ALOT more goes in to a time slip, such as gearing, but let's assume about a 373 and I'm getting good 60' times.

What have you found to be the limits of the MAF or the best MAF I could buy? Assuming of course you had tried any aftermarket MAF.

I read the article on your car in gmhightech and was taken back by the fact that you have had to use different size injectors because there was no way to program the PCM to send different amounts of fuel to different cylinders. I wonder if an ls1 PCM would solve this issue. Not that you have to answer that I am sure Google will have the answer.

I know you have a lot of cubes along with a lot of boost to hit the 9's. Do you think it would be wise to go to a 383 in search of my goals for a high 10s car? As you understand I want to use the stock iron block so I would be weary of trying to go bigger than a 383. What are your thoughts here?

As far as parts go could you possibly start helping me cobble together a list? Is the ET page details updated to say what your running for parts? I found the thread about you finding the rear ends limits being in the ring set. Since this is going to be a long drawn out process in order to obtain the maximum results I'd like to go overkill in the parts department even though it may not be the most cost effective route.

Would you use the same transmission builder if you were to do it over? Would you let the same company do the head work if you were to do it over?

What do you think my best course of action, as far as planning goes, should be? I think my next step from here should be to contact Kenne Bell and get all of the specs on their 3.6LC. I should ask height, width, depth of the housing. The length of the blowers snout. Find out what CFM it flows. Find out the heat value at X CFM as you stated in your last post Jeff. Anything else I should ask while I have them on the phone?

As you stated I need a clear picture of my goals. As you know the goal is a very reliable and streetable Sleeper, that retains all of the factory comforts, while still utilizing the original block, 4l60, and 10 bolt with the strongest internals available. The car has to also retain a stock appearance. I want to run a ls1 PCM for the sake of tuning and I already know what that swap entails. I also want the car to be able to consistently run in the 10's ( high or low i dont care as long as its 10's) at the track assuming the correct traction is available. I think I need a realistic goal in terms of power and then we could try to decide if a 355 or 383 with the 3.6L could realistically get me there while still retaining all of my other criteria for this build. I don't mind going with a cam that moves my power band upward but, as I can tell you understand Jeff, I do not want it to be too choppy. I also want it to still float down the highway to some degree so I think 373s would be as high as I'd like the rear gear to be and I know it's going to be tough to decide on the suspension. Is this the right way to start this build? What is the first thing you would do knowing what I have in mind?

Again, I would like to thank everyone for their help with this. Jeff I would especially like to thank you for all of your help thus far. When you first started responding I had no idea how similar your plans for your impala had been. I also did not know that you were such an important person to this community. By reading through some of your old threads and your gmhightech article I have come to appreciate how lucky I am to have someone like you willing to help me with this let alone take part in building it. Honestly, I am flattered that someone with your knowledge and reputation has so much interest in this idea of mine and would be very proud to say down the road that this never would have happened if it wasn't for Jeff Green! That is of course IF we get to the point where we can nail down a plan and realistic goal and then we decide to pull the trigger on this build (meaning that you would still like to do it when the time comes haha). Thank you so much for taking the time to read my long posts, doing your best to answer all of my questions, making such important suggestions and, perhaps most importantly, having the patience to deal with my novice. I want to learn! More than anything I love these cars and this hobby. I am willing to listen and absorb all I can from those who are willing to share their knowledge. I have a lot to learn, granted, but I what I do have is the patience and determination to do so.

Thanks again!

 

[tenor39]

Kenne Bell will tell you that the 3.6LC blower is total overkill for a 355 or a 383. The big blowers are made for the flea sized Ford V8's that need a butt load of boost to make any real power. I made almost 800FHP with a 2.2L and 12lbs. of boost. As Jeff has mentioned, it's CFM that matters and not psi.

 

[Jeff Green]

Thanks for the compliments but it’s not needed for me to help you. You don’t need to do that so let’s focus on the build.

I’m fine on doing a lot of this on this thread if you want. It gives away no secrets as those are in the details like clearances and tune up. Think of it this way, a motor from a builder that makes 900HP or more will cost you 20K to 50K depending on the HP you want. You can buy the parts for that engine for far less than that but bolting those parts together will not make the amount of power the builder’s engine will. That extra power is all the details or tune up as we call it. It’s also why one motor never blows up but others do with the same motor. I would give you a headache going into all that stuff. You don’t really care just as long as it works and does what I said it would do. So I’m good doing this and maybe it will inspire a few more out here to build a FI car. I enjoy looking at what others have done as much as my own stuff.

I’ll try to answer your questions in order:

You only need ice for the cooler at the track. On the street you will blow the tires off in first gear and maybe part of second. NEVER try to launch this car from a dead stop on the street as you will just put the motor on the rev limiter and go from 800 RPM’s to 7000 in a blink of an eye. That is hell on an engine and everything else. Free rev is what kills parts more so than keeping everything loaded. At high gear you can’t stay in it very long because of the speed you will reach quickly so you can never build much boost heat because of the small amount of time you can be at WOT on the street. At the track the car will hook and stay loaded for enough time to hurt it if you don’t have the right cooling. Just water should work on the street as we will not have much boost 99% of the time you are driving it. BUT the info on whatever screw you want to use gives us the real answers to this and stops the guessing!!

I’m guessing 800HP or no more than 900HP to hit 10’s no matter how much that Fleetwood weighs.

Not sure if the LS1 computer can control individual cylinders at WOT or not?

CID means almost nothing to a forced Induction engine. A 383 should be fine. I would like to go 409 for the added torque but the piston side loads worry me over a long period of miles. I run a large CID for other reasons.

You don’t need the level of parts I run in my motor. I make around 1500HP and we are only trying to make 800HP in yours so almost half the power. No reason to spend money that is not needed.

Rossler Transmissions is the only one to use. Go to the section in the forum for tranny’s and read all the bad stuff there. Here’s the part you need to hear, I have NEVER broke my transmission on its own failure. Rosslers are made with parts that no one else has and that’s why I can do what I do with my car. My car’s heavier than anything else with a 4L60E in it, runs more MPH and has the fastest ET of anyone with a 4L60E. If you use anything else it’s going to break. Every motor I have built for someone else has left my garage with a Rossler behind it. None have ever come back or had a problem. So your question is not even a question to me. And if you do use something else it would not be the first motor I built for someone that blew up all the crap behind it. And that will not be my problem or my fault. You didn’t listen to me.

The iron LT block will work fine for you. They are good for 1000 HP, it’s over 1000 HP I don’t trust them. You get into cylinder wall twist or deflection that you don’t know is going on but things will happen that you can’t explain. Parts will fail that are not the block but they will be caused by it. So you’re good for what you want.

Yes, the screw is the focus before you can have a go or no go on this project. It’s the only part I don’t know the answers to. So yes, get the spec for anything you can get and a dimensions sheet or blueprint. Explain what you want to do if they tell you that can’t send that to you. I have things on the Paxton Novi’s you would not believe but its how I have it doing things no one thinks it can. Don’t take no for an answer.

Let me know when you have the spec’s.

 

[Jeff Green]

Kenne Bell will tell you that the 3.6LC blower is total overkill for a 355 or a 383. The big blowers are made for the flea sized Ford V8's that need a butt load of boost to make any real power. I made almost 800FHP with a 2.2L and 12lbs. of boost. As Jeff has mentioned, it's CFM that matters and not psi.

I have not looked at the KB stuff at all yet so this is good information, thanks!!

 

[Rocko350]

http://www.corneltechweb.com/superchargerphaseii.htm

Here are some pics of a roots type from a guy on ls1tech. IIRC he was going to reproduce these components.

http://www.streetfire.net/video/weiand-142-roots-blower-on-a-96-ta-lt1-fits-under_59340.htm
This was a video that i wasn't sure was still around, A weiand 142 blower on an LT1
Chris