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How is it going ImpFam? I'm currently putting back together a 95' Chevy Caprice9(9C1 RP0) with 4.3L....93,xxx miles.. Pull the motor out to clean it up(needed various gaskets, opti seals, etc). After re-installing the motor notice that the alternator wires were clipped!:confused: Tried looking at diagrams and even looked at my 95' RMW to see if I could figure how it was to be rewired....but to no avail and only to burn up 2 known good but used alternators! But enough with the sob stories.. Question is, How do I figure out which wire goes into which connector slot...both wires are brown yet both the same size....PLFS is what the connector reads on the bottom where the two center wires come out. Four terminal/slot connector in which the outside two are obviously not used. Forgive me for the "Essay" but really need the help to get this wired correctly! Thanks for your time and any info given is much appreciated!
 

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I assume you soldered the wires back together. If that is the case, try swapping the wires. You only have 2 possible combinations. If the one you have now is not working, then the other combination must be the correct one.

One wire goes to the ammeter, and the other goes to the fuse box.
 

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Swap wires.

Ugh, duh! Lol....why didn't I think of that. And no it wasn't soldered yet. Fried the second alternator within a couple seconds! But on a more technical level, Is there away to test each wire to know exactly what amount of volts are supposed to be reading from each wire? Like switch off volts vs switch in on voltage?
 

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Pull the #8 fuse in the underhood fuse box


Turn the ign on



Put a voltmeter on the two wires to find the one with no power

Put the fuse back and see if you now have power on that wire .

The wire that is powered through fuse #8 is the "I" or "F"

The other wire is from the dash and goes to the "L"
 

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Thank You 95Wagon! Followed your steps and got some progress!:) Remove #8 UHF and 1 wire held the same voltage as the battery(12.5 at the time), and the other didnt exactly read 0 Volts but instead scrambled upward...?, Is it supposed to read Zero? or flucuate?
 

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Should have said "zeroish" :)

I believe what you are seeing is the unloaded line floating because there are other things on it after fuse #8
The PCM grounds the secondary relay to run the fan
There is voltage coming back down the line , through the relay to your voltmeter .

If your voltmeter drew more or you put an incandescent bulb on the line, it would pull it down to zero.

I have a different ECU because of my swap (and I likely have a different voltmeter)
My voltage on that line wanders around .47
If I pull the secondary relay, the voltage drops to zero
Also if I put an incandescent test lamp on the line , the voltage drops to zero.

Hope this helps you
 

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Hahaha, I finally realized who you where! Not that I know personally, but your wagon is "Legendary!" Completely professional, flawless, and amazing build I must say! But thanks a lot for the info on the alternator wiring! Finally had to time to play with it and a few other toys, and I did the in-line light test to bring it down to zero-ish with #8 fuse pulled... "It's Alive"....thanks for everyone's input!
 
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