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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I figured that I would start a thread since I am starting another T56 install. I go contacted about 6 months ago from a gentleman that found the guide that I made online and wanted to do the conversion. He called me and we talked for a bit and he asked if I would be interested in doing the conversion for him. I was a bit hesitant to say yes, but after about 4 months of talking with him I figured what the hell, why not. He found a trans on craigslist and went and picked it up, guy he bought it from told him it was just rebuild 500 miles ago by D and D, so he grabbed it for what seemed to be a fair price. He was leary on the situations and dropped it off to D and D for inspection and of course it was never rebuilt by them, so another grand or so out the door at D and D he has a pretty much bullet proof trans and has a got a ongoing court case with the idiot he bought it from, he wanted to work it out with the guy but of course he wouldn't return a call after the purchase. What an a$$hole! So he filed in small claims court, and the guy showed up and said he wanted to counter-sue for slander or some other bullsh$%. Some people these days. Well on with the spec's of the car.

Well fast forward and he dropped the car off to me yesterday, we got it all jacked in my garage and we pulled the rearend, so that he could take it with him to get rebuilt and put 4.10's in it.
specs:

96 B4U with every option but leather, just turned 90K on the way up to my house. Other than that pretty much stock.

Parts going in:

D and D built T56
F2B kit
Tach
New Ram flywheel
Denny's driveshaft
4.10 gear/ limited slip
Mcleod clutch disc and pressure plate, maybe putting in a Clutch from the company BallSS got his from, the owner of this car is working with them on that.
PCM program from Alex @ PCMPerformance

Other stuff:

Replace rear main seal
Replace blow motor for the HVAC
Replace the springs on all for corners
Remove the airpump

I think that is it. All in all it should be a good install. I will keep this updated with pictures through out the process, not that there isn't enough on the subject, but I will be doing somethings a little different in the process. With my work schedule I would think that it would be finished by the end of the month.

Here are some pics thus far.




 

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This is what I came looking for....

Well I went to the forum today looking for this, but for different ideas.

I'm constantly debating 2 things. Driving a car I love or driving a car that's fuel efficient. There's threads on that debate all over. But when it comes down to it, every classic I'd buy I would just spend money trying to make it like my Impala. Therefore I've come to the conclusion to do the T56.

I'm going to follow this and also look into your how-to on the T56 conversion. I'll search for it now, but any links to it would be great. Many guys in NJ and NY have done it as well, so I've got a wealth of knowledge to go on. This should be fun!

Thanks Mike, I'll stay tuned.
 

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Sounds like a great idea Mike.

I have a request to make...
Can you take some detailed pictures of the clutch fork and T nut? I am curious what the side to side play should be and what a good set up looks like.

One other thing. Can you post what the clutch pedal stroke is for the F2B hit? I had a chance to drive a BBHP set up and the clutch pedal travel was very short and lighter compared to my set up which is custom made but modeled after the F2B kit.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yembo, here is the manual as it sits right now.
www.linux2go.org/postings/impcapt56.pdf funny just google Impala T56 and it comes up on one of the first things ;)

Estate- most certainly, I can shoot a vid if you like as well, maybe a little easier to view instead of pics. I will figure something out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Somethings that I will probably take on is figuring out a way to close out the firewall better, when using the F2B kit, great kit as we all know, but I just don't like how the bracket comes through the firewall. I am going to figure out a way to cut and patch the hole where as it will be completely enclosed. Same with the floor cut, I have some ideas for that as well. I will most likely be starting up a website that will be a single place to go for stuff like this and my other adventures as well. Stay tuned.
 

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Mike

this guy is in good hands with you at the helm...

tough deal on the used T56...unfortunately a pretty common deal with used t56.

The McLeod clutch is a good one. They do not modify their PP for more clamp force and if the Mcleod disc is the DF one it should be good to go. the owner could just buy a PP from Clutchnet if he wanted more pedel pressure and holding power. His motor is stock I assume??

A SS owner out here just bought the excact clutch set up I have from Clutchnet. his ride is stock (exhaust/intake) but he broke springs in a Autozone disc. Even got the 30 year old disc material I have...assume CN now only has enough to make 25 more of those discs. That clutch should last a very long time although it is a wear item like brakes....the more you beat on them the faster they wear :)....with high RPM clutch dumps at the track wearing it even faster ;-(
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Mike

this guy is in good hands with you at the helm...

tough deal on the used T56...unfortunately a pretty common deal with used t56.

The McLeod clutch is a good one. They do not modify their PP for more clamp force and if the Mcleod disc is the DF one it should be good to go. the owner could just buy a PP from Clutchnet if he wanted more pedel pressure and holding power. His motor is stock I assume??

A SS owner out here just bought the excact clutch set up I have from Clutchnet. his ride is stock (exhaust/intake) but he broke springs in a Autozone disc. Even got the 30 year old disc material I have...assume CN now only has enough to make 25 more of those discs. That clutch should last a very long time although it is a wear item like brakes....the more you beat on them the faster they wear :)....with high RPM clutch dumps at the track wearing it even faster ;-(
Yeah after talking with you about this I told him to tryout clutchnet and he ordered the disc and pressure plate from them, it arrived and the disc material was flaking off, so he sent it back, they were having issues with machine that makes the disc. He in fact got the DF disc from Mcleod and it will most likely be the unit that we use. His motor is completely stock, well except for the exhaust and intake and soon to have a tune from Alex.

Bill- I tried to get him to do the swap and he didn't want to change the rearend. So he is just having the one out of it completely rebuilt.

I worked on it tonight for about 2 or 3 hours, slush box is out, flexplate is off and pilot bearing is pounded in :) front fender well is out and all that. I am going to have to cut and rotate the drivers cat as I figured, lubed the hell out of the attachment bolts for the manifold output flange, hope it helps, it is just impossible to get gun from my welder in there. I will figure something out, I have to redrill and tap one of the bolts on the passenger side anyway as it was broken. and the other one won't come out. so I will probably just drill and tap both of them and use some grade 8 bolts to attach the collector.

Also I did the smart thing on this one, I measured the pinion angle, the output shaft angle, the height from the floor and all that. Didn't want to deal with the potential vibe issue. I would think by the end of the weekend I will have the tranny in and wired up, had to find a sitter for the munchkin, she isn't old enough to wrench yet. :) More to come.
 

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Also I did the smart thing on this one, I measured the pinion angle, the output shaft angle, the height from the floor and all that. Didn't want to deal with the potential vibe issue. .
^^^^

Mike I was going to PM you to do that :)

did the CN disc that was flakeing look like my pic?

my disc did "smell" first few drives due to material burnoff. the DF McLeod is good. may have some slight tendency for chatter given the puc FW side but driving style most likely solve that if it was a issue.

I am sure CN will replace disc material...

post a pic of it if you can
 

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Hey Roger,

Yeah I never saw the disc, he sent it back to them before he brought me the car. I will take a pick of it when it comes back. They seem like a good company, they just had a faulty run for some reason.
...weird, they make clutches per order so no "faulty run" thing. their shop is very small compared to large clutch companies.

CN also, at least on mine, don't include a new pilot bearing or alignment tool in their clutch kits....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah I had all that stuff. As far as the run I meant that when he ordered his and they ran it through or made it, for some reason the material was faulty or the machine making them, I am not sure of the process though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Alright I am in a toss up here, I put in the pilot bearing and I just don't like how it looks, I don't know if it just looks funny to me or what, I run a bushing in mine. I would like to know some of your thoughts on the differences, I have heard horror stories about the bearings going out, hence why I have a bushing in mine. I will pull it out anyway, just cause I want to be sure it is right, but the seal on the front end of it looks damaged for some reason. I don't know. I know it is a heated debate on which one is better, but I have also seen/heard of the replacement bearings failing after about 40k. Let me know your thoughts, thanks.
 

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pilot bearing

well Mike I am one who is in favor of the 'bearing" over the bushing. Not saying there is anything wrong with the bushing.

if the bearing you put in does not look right PULL IT...it is a PIA to have to go back in to R&R it. maybe it got dinged putting it in...assume it is in the right way.

I have 'heard" storys of pilot bearings going bad and taking out input shaft...but don't know if the tranny had issues (bad shaft bearing, etc) that took out pilot bearing or if it was never replaced and puked because the owner did not replace it with last clutch. point is the bearing is in 100'sk+ cars. maybe the bearing move was when SBC started seeing 6500-7000 k rpm out of the box or the BW trannys being better than older Muncie...I don't know.

if it is a bushing or bearing and you don't think it looks right after install...pull it. bearing/bushing will be fine IMHO and should last = time.



what my bearing looks like
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Roger, I am just going to order a new bearing from Summit, I know it is in right and what is funny I was reading some stuff online and some of the morons over at some fbody boards were telling guys to put them in backwards, where as the silver ring on the inside that holds the needle bearings in place, said that it had to be put in facing the flywheel. I went through all of this before with mine, thanks for your help on that one. Yeah it just is one of those things, and yeah I am going to yank it out for sure.
 

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This thread brings back memories. I just got done installing a T56 myself, just not in an Imp this time.

Put me in the pilot bearing camp too.

Sharkx
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok progress, pedals are in, of course the firewall is cut and I ran into a snafu that I haven't ever heard of or seen before. I put in the master cylinder for the clutch and tightened it all down and attached it, and I can't press it in for the life of me, I bench bleed the assembly out of the car before I installed it, but of course this was only pumping the slave cylinder, I thought maybe it had something to do with the slave being full extended, so I pushed that all the way in and still the same thing, it is hard as a rock. I think that he got a bad set of hydraulics for the a$$hole he got the trans from, your thoughts?

Here are some pics.



 
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