[MULEDAWG]

So I added some newer coolant fans a while back (some blue, light weight fans) & that’s when I messed up… both fans died from what I can only imagine the amount of heat my 5.7 created was too much for the soul of those fans could bear…
My question to the masses is this what fans are compatible with the 96 caprice/impala’s? Electric fans of course, but I want to go with the OEM size fans… thanks in advance for ya’ll help…

 

[Marky Dissod]

So I added some newer coolant fans a while back (some blue, light weight fans) & that’s when I messed up … both fans died from what I can only imagine the amount of heat my 5.7 created was too much for the soul of those fans could bear …

If you are still using OE fan-on thresholds, lowering them will probably help them (and everything else underhood) last longer.

Actually, did you upgrade the wiring?
A TSB for the fan wiring was only applied to 9C1s.
Correct me if needed, but I think it only applied to the electrical 240W secondary fan's wiring?
However, Fleetwoods moved BOTH relays outside the relay box by design.
Z09B4U corrected my error: it was the PRIMARY fan wiring.

Check for 'meltiness' inside the relay box underhood, under the fan relays.
Even without any 'meltiness', relocating the fan relays outside the box is a precaution.
If you see anything 'melty' when you unplug the fan relays, relocate the fan relays outside the box.

My question to the masses is this what fans are compatible with the 96 caprice / impala’s? Electric fans of course, but I want to go with the OEM size fans …

Every Caprice RoadMaster and Fleetwood that came with an electrical primary fan came with the same 150W electrical primary fan.

Every Caprice RoadMaster and Fleetwood that came with a MECH primary fan, got a 240W secondary fan.
A 240W secondary electrical fan also came on '94 and '95 9C1s, but '96 9C1s got a mere 100W secondary fan.

 

[stonebreaker]

One thing you can do to improve cooling and look cool besides is to install hood louvres.

https://hoodlouvers.com/

 

[Z09B4U]

A TSB for the fan wiring was only applied to 9C1s.
Correct me if needed, but I think it only applied to the electrical 240W secondary fan's wiring?

http://www.skymagik.net/storm/cars/tsb/b-body_536204.pdf

The PRIMARY relay would melt down the relay socket due to extended idling and GM setting the primary fan's on/off temperatures too close together which would cause the rapid on/off cycle of the primary fan. There is a high current every time the fan motor starts and if this happens in short on/off cycles the wiring will over heat.

If you do not want to change the wiring just lowering the primary and secondary on point and programming them to stay running longer will greatly reduce the strain on the wiring.

 

[MULEDAWG]

http://www.skymagik.net/storm/cars/tsb/b-body_536204.pdf

The PRIMARY relay would melt down the relay socket due to extended idling and GM setting the primary fan's on/off temperatures too close together which would cause the rapid on/off cycle of the primary fan. There is a high current every time the fan motor starts and if this happens in short on/off cycles the wiring will over heat.

If you do not want to change the wiring just lowering the primary and secondary on point and programming them to stay running longer will greatly reduce the strain on the wiring.

Can someone just let me know the following:
What vehicle if any can I go to the junkyard and pull two large fans, plug & play ?
Can I use the dual fan setup from a newer model impala? Final question I would like to install fans plug & play but would like the option to have a switch to manually turn my fans from my dash…
Thanks again

 

[Caddylack]

Can someone just let me know the following:
What vehicle if any can I go to the junkyard and pull two large fans, plug & play ?
Can I use the dual fan setup from a newer model impala? Final question I would like to install fans plug & play but would like the option to have a switch to manually turn my fans from my dash…
Thanks again

I have fans to sell.

 

[stonebreaker]

Buying used in this case is a waste of time. The thing is, the motors fail over time. They gradually start drawing more and more current until they burn the relays out. Then you replace the relays, and then you're cussing because your $70 relay you just bought burned out in 3 weeks.

If your relays are getting crispy, then you need to replace the fan motors along with the relays. New fan motors actually aren't that expensive. I did a quick google and came up with this.

 

[MULEDAWG]

I have fans to sell.

I need two so how many of my kids & quarts of blood 🩸 do you want for them ? 😂 that’s a joke…

 

[Caddylack]

I need two so how many of my kids & quarts of blood 🩸 do you want for them ? 😂 that’s a joke…

Sending PM

 

[Fix Until Broke]

I've had/seen more issues with new (Aftermarket) fans and prefer to get a used OEM fan as they tend to be higher quality and last longer if you can find ones from a lower mile vehicle. If this is a weekend cruiser then maybe not so big of a deal and it'll last for another decade, but if it's a daily driver it might be something to consider.

Another option for the relay issue (and the temperature setpoint issue, and the manual override issue) would be a separate fan controller - WWW.AUTOCOOLGUY.COM
Leave the factory wiring/relays in place as a backup/failsafe since they're set really hot anyway.

Just another set of options to consider - nothing wrong with reprogramming the OEM temp setpoints and upgrading the wiring/relays either.

Buying used in this case is a waste of time. The thing is, the motors fail over time. They gradually start drawing more and more current until they burn the relays out. Then you replace the relays, and then you're cussing because your $70 relay you just bought burned out in 3 weeks.

If your relays are getting crispy, then you need to replace the fan motors along with the relays. New fan motors actually aren't that expensive. I did a quick google and came up with this.

 

[stonebreaker]

Installing a manual controller is easy. All you do is splice in a second power circuit to the stock wiring harness. I put the switch in that little hollow on the left side of the steering wheel - you couldn't even see it. Then just turn it on whenever I wanted.

It occurs to me that you could also do that but use the stock relay as a switch. Use it only to activate a generic 40 amp relay, and the relay supplies most of the power. That way, whenever the relay burns out, you're a) only replacing a $15 relay instead of the REALLY expensive OEM relay, and b) you're not heating the underhood fuse box to unsafe levels. Of course, be sure to wire in fuses and any other safety things you may want.

 

[MULEDAWG]

Thank you very much, once I have my new fans in, I’m differently wiring in the manual switch.

 

[1slow96]

If you don't have fan at all? Salvage yards are very resonable.
Bracket ,and/or blades can easily be upwards of $100 each.
Motors are still easily replaced regardless..