[4DoorSS]

I found some old pics that may be helpful if others were curious or wanting to replace the hoses on the Charcoal/Vapor Canister. While there are numerous threads on this topic, thought it may be good to post some pics of the canister on the car before removal and how the hoses are connected along with a pic off the car.

It can be easy to overlook this item due to its hidden location. Maybe not so much hidden but definitely not a part you see or look for since it is tucked away up inside the RF Fender extension/filler panel and mounted to the Frame Horn. This panel is the Black Plastic part the lower Right Air Dam attaches to and is mounted between the Bumper Cover and the Fender Wheel Well/Trim area and needs to be removed to gain access.

If you replace these hoses, the type of hose used is important since this is Fuel Vapor being filtered. Factory hoses are most likely non-existent so your best bet may be to match up the hoses and buy length of hose from the Parts Store .At least this is what I did and there was approx. 3 different Hose sizes used.It will be obvious once you remove the canister assembly and Hoses from the Frame Rail.One word of advice, wear gloves when removing the old Hoses to match up as they will most likely be a sooty mess on the outside of the hose.Also use hose that is rated for Emissions or Fuel Vapor and make sure the inside diameter will fit snuggly on the Hose Fittings.

This is a pic of the canister mounted on the car with the front clip removed for visability and to give you an idea of its location. The Canister has a Red Shop towel sitting on it.

This is looking up at the Canister after the panel was removed. The 2 metal lines that the Rubber Canister Hoses mount to go to 1) The Evap Solenoid Mounted on the Intake Manifold and 2) goes back to the Gas Tank Vent. Also notice the little hose (smaller Diameter) going to the check Valve.

This other angle pic shows the 3/8" hose on the right going up into the fender well. This hose does not connect to anything and vents to the Atmosphere. All the cars I have seen have this hose just laying up in the fender well and resting on top of the Wheel House, while others have seen this hose laying in the Battery tray area. Which is correct? I would say run it the exact way you found it although IMHO it seems to be better located in the fender well.

Lastly, here is a Pic of the entire assembly as I removed it from the car and was able to match up Hoses from the parts store. Most Parts places will have this hose on the Spool and sold by foot. Just tell them how much you need and match up the diameters.

 

[babywag]

x2

Smog tech said mine were in bad shape, and he wasn't kidding.
I replaced all of them, sticky/flaking/falling apart mess.
Not hard, just messy...wear gloves or you'll have black fingers.

 

[atlantadan]

I just replaced all of mine two weeks ago. They disintegrated once I touched them. There are two different size hoses. Take a segment of both to the parts shop and ask specifically for "emissions line". Usually, they'll let you in the back to go through the stuff yourself.

 

[j cat]

x2

Smog tech said mine were in bad shape, and he wasn't kidding.
I replaced all of them, sticky/flaking/falling apart mess.
Not hard, just messy...wear gloves or you'll have black fingers.

when I did my hoses that black slime is tough to get off your hands.

 

[j cat]

the 3/8 vent hose for the canister is OEM factory forward of the battery under the metal cross member the 2 hoses off the T which are open point straight down . that is how it was in nov 1995 and how it is today after I replaced them all ..

problem I had too much tank pressure .

 

[babywag]

when I did my hoses that black slime is tough to get off your hands.

Yep, nasty stuff. Mine were definitely OE and way overdue!

There are two different size hoses.

Mine ('94) had 3 diff sizes;
3/8", 5/16" and short ~3" 3/16" hose.

 

[4DoorSS]

Yep, nasty stuff. Mine were definitely OE and way overdue!



Mine ('94) had 3 diff sizes;
3/8", 5/16" and short ~3" 3/16" hose.

That sounds about right on the 3 different hose sizes. But as someone else mentioned, you could measure your old hose(s) or take a little piece of each with you to match up just to be sure. The 2nd is what I did.

Wasn't sure how to test that little valve or if I should have just replaced it anyway. They are available but believe they were kinda expensive so just didn't bother when doing the hoses. Does anyone know how to test this valve or how it's designed to work??

Here is the factory diagram for the canister circuit.....

1995 Chevrolet Impala VAPOR CANISTER & RELATED PARTS-V8

 

[schlicky13]

Dude, thank you, seriously. I was hoping for a detailed thread like this and hadn't really found one yet. I've been chasing this issue for a bit on mine, and still haven't gotten around to replacing the hoses that I can't easily get at. This will save me a ton of time and energy, since I can now buy the hoses I need ahead of time and won't have to take it apart, figure out what I need, put it back together well enough that it's driveable, go to the parts store and buy what I need, then take it back apart to actually replace the old hoses. Again, this is majorly appreciated, and now I really have no excuse whatsoever for not replacing these hoses on mine. One more time, thank you!!!

 

[babywag]

Now that I think about it there is a 4th hose that goes from hard line to Purge valve up on engine. This one may have been 1/4"? I'd have to check. It's kind of hidden in all the junk they cram into that space on passenger side of engine.
It wasn't in as bad of shape, but it was pretty dryrotted.

 

[schlicky13]

Now that I think about it there is a 4th hose that goes from hard line to Purge valve up on engine. This one may have been 1/4"? I'd have to check. It's kind of hidden in all the junk they cram into that space on passenger side of engine.
It wasn't in as bad of shape, but it was pretty dryrotted.

Yes, there is. I've done that on mine since it's relatively easy to access. There's also another hard line coming off the purge valve and going over to the front of the intake manifold. The rubber connectors at either end of those are also usually pretty much junk by now too. The 90° connector going to the front of the intake can't be found new, but someone else figured out a spark plug boot works great there. For the other connectors I just used pieces of hose, I think 1/4" is correct for that, but I don't recall off the top of my head.

 

[4DoorSS]

NO problem guys. Sometimes it just helps to see things on the car. While we are at it, may as well take this thread full circle. There are some other items in the circuit that have been along for the 20 year plus ride too that should get some attention.

As I mentioned, there is the little purge valve, GM #17089068 or #214-552. This part costs around $30-$40 but it can be tested first. Found this thread which may be helpful while the system is down and you have a vacuum pump.

Rochester Valve testing and replacement | Jaguar Clubs of North America

In case the link dies later, here is the text......

Started By: Sean Sexton on 2013-07-17 18:03:10

Started new thread with Rochester in it to aid future searches. Original thread was Fuel Tank Venting.

Thanks to Steven Petry for the following testing procedure.

You can test the Rochester Valve if you have a hand vacuum pump that has a vacuum gauge.

Take the valve off and connect the vacuum pump to the small vacuum nipple. Apply 15" vacuum and see how long it takes to trail off to zero.

If the vacuum takes five seconds or more to trail off to zero, the valve is considered good.
Less than two seconds is a failed Rochester Valve.
If between two and five seconds, cover the two large nipples with your fingers and retest to 15" vacuum. If the time for the vacuum to trail off increases, it's a failed Rochester Valve.

ACDelco 214-552 Vapor Canister Purge Valve appears to be a good replacement. Valve was in just about every GM product from 1990-2001. One listing even had a picture of a Rochester valve. I couldn't find specifications on line but at least one Jag owner tried it and it worked. Autozone has them listed as PV132. I would expect any auto parts store to have one or able to get it in a day. If anyone purchases the Delco unit please post back with results.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Next on the list of items to check would be the charcoal canister itself. While these can be purchased new for around $70, there are some who have rebuilt these. If you google it, you should find a lot of hits and techniques used but this thread gives you some ideas and think I may do this when the front end is off the car shortly for some repairs....

Rebuild vapor canister? - Corvette Forum

Last thing to touch on is the end of the circuit or the hose that goes from the purge solenoid to the intake manifold. The rubber pieces also need replaced but are a hard find. These hoses can also be hard to find in general since they have 2 different inner diameters. Some have used a spark plug boot to repair the manifold end (done this myself), but the small section of rubber hose at the solenoid should also be replaced and believe that is also different diameters on both ends.

In this thread at post 13 is picture and parts listed to make a replacement hose for the entire assembly and not just replace the manifold end.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...enance/345905-throttle-body-hose-routing.html

Also in that thread are some pics at Post 10 I took while upgrading by battery harness and ground connection along with adding a Headlight Harness upgrade from Gary. You may notice the beefier cables along with the headlight relays from Gary at inovativewiring....shameless plug but his stuff is top notch. BTW - first pic shows the original GM hoses while the 2nd pic is after I replaced the hoses with new hose from AZ.

Anyway, in those pics you will also notice the old GM hoses coming off the vent canister and laying in the fender. The one pic shows how the end with the tee fitting lays in there. I mentioned earlier that some have seen this hose in the battery area. All the cars I've seen have it in the fender area but have seen some show this in the tray area. If yours is currently in the tray area, you may want to move the hose to the fender instead.

There are a couple of reasons why "I feel" this is better. The first and for you Cali or emmisions guys, some of you have run into problems with this hose just laying in the battery area and its noticed by the inspection folks and they fail you because they don't know any better. Even after sharing with them the circuit and how it's designed, this still caused them some problems. At least with it in the fender, it is more hidden away and I believe a little more "out of the elements". This would be my second reason, with it "out of the elements" it is also away from things in the engine compartment. I have read where some have found the battery sitting on top of the hose. Maybe someone not paying attention during a battery replace but this would never happen in the fender. In the end, either location should be fine, just seems like more "potential" problems in the battery area...IMHO.

 

[SoCalChlln]

Can anyone tell me how the nylon rubber sheathed vapor line attaches to the evap system in the front of the car ?
I’ve replaced the rubber jumper at the rear of the nylon line going into the metal fuel pump lines, I’m guessing there must be a similar rubber jumper piece at the front end where it connects to metal lines.
Any idea where that happens ?
Thank you.
I know this thread is very old.

 

[Jimpala95]

Can anyone tell me how the nylon rubber sheathed vapor line attaches to the evap system in the front of the car ?
I’ve replaced the rubber jumper at the rear of the nylon line going into the metal fuel pump lines, I’m guessing there must be a similar rubber jumper piece at the front end where it connects to metal lines.
Any idea where that happens ?
Thank you.
I know this thread is very old.

I just went through the EVAP system on my 94 Caprice.Replaced hoses,new canister and tested vaccum valve at canister. I too was curious about the connection point btw hard line to plastic line inside pass side frame at kick up/firewall. To reach it,I had to unclip the 9 spots on frame to free up this combo line.Doing this let me pull the line up and out of frame 6 inches or so.Peeled back the protective plastic loom and found the connection to be in excellent condition.It's like a heat shrink,imo. Obviously manufactured as one unit,so after a careful looking over I left mine alone.Can't see this ever being a leak point,imo.Hope this helps,Jim

 

[cadejohnson58]

The line that vents my gas tank has gone and not coming back. These are easy to replace right? Just a clip holding these hoses on so shouldnt be hard? What stores sell these rubber lines in California. Thank you

 

[1slow96]

I recommend using "fuel" hose, "fuel injection" hose is even better,but it is pricey. Still,I'd rather spend a little more time/money to do it right. Rather than needing to spend additional time/money to do the job over.

 

[cadejohnson58]

I recommend using "fuel" hose, "fuel injection" hose is even better,but it is pricey. Still,I'd rather spend a little more time/money to do it right. Rather than needing to spend additional time/money to do the job over.

I will definitely look into that thank you, my other question is in that picture you can see the vent line that has the break and is for my fuel tank, i dont see a clip it looks like a 1 piece like its not connected by a clip its part of the fuel line.

 

[1slow96]

Small spring,or worm clamp will suffice. Neither much pressure/vacuum present most of the time.

 

[4DoorSS]

I have a 96 9C1 that I'm parting and just removed the Front clip and Suspension. While doing so I found it interesting that this car appears like the Charcoal Canister was "clocked" a little different in the Bracket and the Vent hose was routed behind the Rad Support and routed to the battery area. The way the hose was routed sure looks pretty clean as it was tight up against the backside of the support. I can see how someone may not even see it if the battery was there. It seemed so factory that I had to get some pics and post them up here. Thought it may help to see this routing as well as what I've previously seen on other cars with it up in the fender.

Edit - Damn...stupid pics are clocked 90* to the left....Sorry

Edit #2 - If you look at the very end of the hose, there is a plastic coupler. Not sure why it's there as it serves no purpose maybe other than keeping the end of the hose from collapsing.

 

[SoCalChlln]

I’ve since located and figured out how that vapor line turned into a hard line going to the EVAP canister...
It is a permanent connection that seldom fails. The hoses coming off the hard lines are usually rotted and I’ve replaced all of them including the vapor check valve in the canister space. I’ve replaced both the switch and vacuum control, the “S” hose between the switch and control.
I’ve also replaced the hose line coming from my tank to the vapor line, and the one going up into the switch. I’m putting in a new canister.
I’ve replaced every hose line and piece of hardware except the canister, I’ll be doing that in the next day or two.
I’m still throwing a p1441 code CEL every morning after the car has sat overnight.
If I clear the code, it will drive all day with several hours between driving and be fine.
No CEL, no codes until it sits for at least 8 hours.
What I need to know is how exactly does the pcm control the EVAP system.
How often does it cycle and check the pressure and vapor flow, how can I check to make sure the new control and switch are good. Even though it doesn’t seem to be an operational problem but a slow leak somewhere in the system. I’d like to know how often it cycles and the exact function of each component, it helps me when troubleshooting if I understand the system completely.
I’m getting ready to do a smoke check, any advice out there on how to best go about it?
I’ve got my old gas cap fabricated with a 3/8” ID clear hose hot glued through the cap, a paint can with in and outlet lines along with a compressor, but even then, without the system cycling, the smoke is only going to present at the locations feeding from the fuel tank, not the lines going into the intake manifold or after the vacuum control valve and switch.
So if anyone out there has ever had to do a smoke check, please let me know step by step the best way to go about it...
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated...
Thank you for your time...

 

[95wagon]

not sure if this helps,