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Well, you didn't use different wire (I assume), you used different insulator material.
Well, it is all 1/0, but my power wire is Stinger Pro and my ground is JL wire. I used what I had. So I guess it's different wire to that respect. It is all copper 1/0 though, like I said.
 

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Discussion Starter #23

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I used the Kicker CBP/CBN terminals on the Caprice and the Kicker BTPN on my Jeep. I've tried a handful of other brands and Kicker's hardware is definitely top notch.
 

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Look at his Upgraded Battery Cables for High Output Alternators
Just the fuse box and frame ground are 2 gauge others are the 1/0
They all come made for our cars with all the fixings at one price from one place. Then just bolt them up. I plane to get a set soon.
If ur unsatisfied with the 2 gauge grounds be easy to upgrade. Maybe even just ask him and he will do it. But does the fuse box and frame ground need to be 1/0 gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Look at his Upgraded Battery Cables for High Output Alternators
Just the fuse box and frame ground are 2 gauge others are the 1/0
They all come made for our cars with all the fixings at one price from one place. Then just bolt them up. I plane to get a set soon.
If ur unsatisfied with the 2 gauge grounds be easy to upgrade. Maybe even just ask him and he will do it. But does the fuse box and frame ground need to be 1/0 gauge?

Upgraded Battery Cables for High Output Alternators
I am now making the following upgraded cables for use with high output alternators: Power cables are 1/0 gauge alternator cable, 1/0 gauge starter cable, and 2 gauge fuse box cable. Ground cables are 1/0 gauge engine ground, 1/0 gauge body ground, and 2 gauge frame ground. Cable sets are complete with loom and hardware. This is a must if you are using a 200Amp or higher alternator.
That needs to be changed, too. If he would make it all 1/0 for a reasonable price thats not a bad deal.
 

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For all practical purposes, most people anywhere would be fine with a 2 AWG big 3. However, a 200+ amp alt is not practical. 1/0 would be advised for such an install. The mindset that most of us have is to go all out the first time around. That way it's done for any future upgrades. There's no sense in doing it twice. With that being said, either 2 or 4 AWG would be a definite upgrade for the fuse box wire. The factory wire is 8 AWG and even that's almost good enough. Because you are more than likely not adding any components to the fuse box, there shouldn't be any reason whatsoever to upgrade that wiring.
 

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went to do the upgrade and failed lol ended up melting the post of my battery because i did a half a$$ job and quit so ill have to get a better battery with dual post. side posts suckkkkkk
 

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went to do the upgrade and failed lol ended up melting the post of my battery because i did a half a$$ job and quit so ill have to get a better battery with dual post. side posts suckkkkkk
Lol, read this thread and was thinking why wouldn't you ditch the side terminals completely. They have given me problems on all my chevy's. Or is it chevrolet... So I always switch to top terminal.
 

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Dual post FTW. I'm running my big 3 and amps on the top posts of my battery and the stock electrical running on the side posts. Out cars are supposed to have a 75 series battery, or 75/25 if you want dual post, but you can easily fit a 34/78 in there.
 

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Lol, read this thread and was thinking why wouldn't you ditch the side terminals completely. They have given me problems on all my chevy's. Or is it chevrolet... So I always switch to top terminal.
lmao i just recently started doing electrical work to the car like this year so now i know i really hate side post. they are so inconvenient but instead of just doing the big 3 upgrade im going to upgrade the oem wiring all to 0 gauge. i already had to cut off the oem ground ring terminal off and that oem wiring is too bulky for my liking. is the welding cable thinner than battery cable in 0 gauge? i know its more flexible but is it thinner?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
lmao i just recently started doing electrical work to the car like this year so now i know i really hate side post. they are so inconvenient but instead of just doing the big 3 upgrade im going to upgrade the oem wiring all to 0 gauge. i already had to cut off the oem ground ring terminal off and that oem wiring is too bulky for my liking. is the welding cable thinner than battery cable in 0 gauge? i know its more flexible but is it thinner?

Thinner?

Just look for some welding cable, or any cable with a high strand count. 0 guage "should" technicaly be the same, but I know its not.

Ur saying the factory wire is too bulky? No 0 gauge is not thinner then factory wire.

Realy im lost in the whole question.
 

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Thinner?

Just look for some welding cable, or any cable with a high strand count. 0 guage "should" technicaly be the same, but I know its not.

Ur saying the factory wire is too bulky? No 0 gauge is not thinner then factory wire.

Realy im lost in the whole question.
ive never seen welding cable so i was asking if the whole cable is thinner in thickness compared to battery cable.

as for stock cables im not talking about the cable itself im talking about the terminals that actually go to the battery
 

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Discussion Starter #37
ive never seen welding cable so i was asking if the whole cable is thinner in thickness compared to battery cable.

as for stock cables im not talking about the cable itself im talking about the terminals that actually go to the battery
Its not thinner, its the same size as 0gauge wire that you can get anywhere else, differnece is its cheaper. Also most have a high strand count, comparable to most expensive audio power cables.

You need to get ring terminals that can accept 0 gauge wire, they sell them all over the place. People that sell tractor trailler stuff, carry them.
 

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i have terminals that can accept them its just the stock ones take up space so im going to redo the whole thing
 

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Now will this improve sound and power output or just help the electrical system run more efficiently?

Just curious about what this does as Im about to tear into my audio stuff...
 

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on my LT1 imp. I dont know if im blind or just not seeing straight but i looked at my alt and there is no positive wire going to the batt other then the connector end and a ground cable? where do i have to hook up the positive to on the alternator that goes to the battery? thx
 
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