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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
... $hit$how. Another "better idea from the General"...

One thing I never wanted to do again in my life, is to strip the interior out of a wagon and have to put it back in again, hopefully without it looking too mangled when I git 'er done. Well, that's where I'm at - the '96 RM wagon needs reconstructive surgery, rust holes in the floor won't pass safety, so that's what I was out doing today.

I obviously have to take out the back seat, both because of holes under the carpet and because it's rotted out around the bottoms of the wheelwells and I have to get the whole back out so the carpet is away from the holes - pop-rivets no longer acceptable here, it's gotta' be welded and I don't want the carpet set-fire-to. Got the back seat bottom out no sweat, been doing that job for over 40 years. But you think I could figure-out how to get the seatback out? I spent at least an hour perusing the shop manual; got it PDF, I think it cost me $40, just finding what you're looking for in there is a quasi-miracle, although once I found the part on taking out the rear speakers they were a piece o' cake. Got a whole lot done through the manual - but the manual just says "remove the seatback", it doesn't say HOW. For your info, the back seat is called the "back seat", the 9-passenger seat is called the "2nd seat".

Trying to get at the bolts that the seatpan pivots on - the picture suggests there are two brackets that go downward and bolt to the floor, well, there aren't. The brackets bolt to the side of the door frame and you CAN NOT get at them - you have to take-out the inside mouldings that run around the wheelwell and the doorframe down to the back floor, and you can't get them out with the seatback in the way. So the picture in the shop manual shows that the moulding is mostly held-in with clips, and I unclipped it to the point that I could twist it quite a ways and see behind it all the way to the bracket - and I could see the pin - and it didn't have a screwdriver slot so I figgered that even if I could get a screwdriver in there, I couldn't unscrew the pin from the bracket. Just as well, it's welded to the bracket - try something else.

So on the driver side, there's a collar around the pin where it goes into the seatback, ~1-1/4" in diameter. I wondered, does that collar screw-into the seatpan? And can I unscrew it by turning it with something, say, vise-grips? I pushed the seatback over far enough that I could grab that collar, and I clicked the visegrips on it, and IT TURNED! And it turned REAL EASY! I could turn it with my fingers - piece o' cake! { - the cake is a lie, BTW... :mad: } So I spun it and spun it and spun it, and all the while I'm watching it against a mark on the pin, and it is not screwing out. So this is clearly not how the seatback comes out. BTW, I had already unzipped the seat cover far enough that I could see that there was no possible way I could get-at the other end of the pin inside the seatpan, so it didn't unscrew inward.

But meanwhile, I'd shoved the seatback quite a ways over toward the passenger-side, and there was a good 1/2" of the pin showing - and I started wondering, could I shove the seatback over so far that it would come right off the pin? Well not by hand, no... but I've got a mothering-big prybar, and I was quite sick enough of the game to not really care if I did incidental damage along the way. So I went and got it. I attacked from the passenger-side, 'cause I'm left-handed, and I PRIED... and I PRIED... and the passenger-side pin popped-out, and the seatback came out of the car. Further on the passenger-side pin; it's in the seatback not the bracket, and it's spring-loaded - which does you no good at all because you can't get-at the bracket on the passenger-side either, so you can't shove the pin in far enough to get the seatback to release.

Whoever designed that seatback mechanism needs taken-out-back and taught a few unpleasant facts of life with a clue-by-four. Or as the t-shirt says, "Some people just need a high-five. In the face. With a chair."
 

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Its like 10 seconds.
Push the spring loaded pivot pin in , lift that side , fish the seat out the door.

The rear rear seat assembly, not fun .
That whole suround comes out.
It was about 15 years ago I did mine and specifics are fuzzy.
If you havent found them yet , the carpeted section above the axle , there are two holes hidding in the carpet itself.
You have to poke and fish around on the carpet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
- And that's why I wrote the post; the shop manual doesn't explain that, it just says "remove it", and it took me hours to figure out how. Hopefully anybody else who does the job will read this thread first. And yeah, the rear seat assembly is the first part of the "fun" today; then unbolt the front seats so I can get the carpet out. I'm getting too old for this...
 

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Front seats should be a walk in the park after your back seat ordeal.
 

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Front seats are 4 screws, 6 bolts and 1 connector each for removal. Also have to remove b pillar trim, sill plates and seat belt anchors to remove the carpet.

Third row seat and cargo floor isn’t that bad. Did one during my lunch break. I do stuff like this for a living though so results may be different for others. Pull all the rubber strips out and the screws will become obvious. As 95 said there are two that are hidden on the very front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Those two hidden screws are gone already - this beast has been apart before. The back is stripped-out; tailgate closed, window closed. A milestone passed; but of course... the cable for the seat latch somehow got a sharp 90-degree bend in it. HOW do cables get sharp bends in them??? And when I straightened the bend, the cable snapped off. HOW do cables snap off??? There's no way I can ever get another of those cables - so a piece of very small copper pipe, some solder and a propane torch will be called-upon to buckshee a splice; wish me luck.

Currently in the middle of the WORST fight so far - and from a totally unexpected direction. I find when I do jobs like these, something always sits there going "Haha - you can't do this without taking ME apart, and I am NOT coming apart and you can't make me - so THERE - and if you get mad and just chop me off, you'll never get the car back together - nyah nyah!" - ever have days like that? Well, to my delight, all the nuts for the front passenger seat came off no fight, two are badly rusted ( - LOVE road salt! - ) but they came right off. Now, think I can get the wiring plug undone? The little green locking tang came right out - the plug's spread maybe 1/8" - and that's after an hour of no-holds-barred, knock-down-drag-out, all while kneeling in the back door on knees that stopped liking me kneeling on them a couple decades ago. I've taken to clamping vise grips on the top-half as tight as I dare - do NOT want to crush the plug, uh-uh, nope - so the vise grips give me something to pry against. I had the driver's seat out earlier this year, so I'm hoping its plugs all work apart with a whole lot less drama.

So I recommend for anybody driving one of these in the rust belt, to open wiring plugs every now-and-then; and get the shop manual, so you can find the chassis grounds. My '95 sedan was killed by a taxi, but I didn't mind seeing it go down the road; it had a whole bunch of weird electrical gremlins in the dashboard; for instance, you had to drive at night with the dashboard lights turned all the way down to off, or the "Headlights Are On" alert dinged at you continuously - the headlights are on, yeah I know the headlights are on, I'm driving on the road at night, they're supposed to be on! Thinking about it afterwards, I suspect the chassis & dashboard grounds were tarnished from years of neglect, so the dashboard lights were drawing their ground through the headlight alarm chime - and a bit of work on the ground points with a Dremel wire brush and some dielectric grease could've solved that and many other little MBM's.

- So having the shop manual, does that mean I'm gonna' be keen and clean-up the ground points on the '96? - likely not... ;)
 

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Ah , the dreaded East ,,,,,
My car spoke French when I got it .
Spent its first few years there before being
" liberated "
No holes, but scars. ( hence the full frame off in 2007)
Can only imagine yours after 25 years.
I used to do Provincial MVIs here.
RARELY would an eastern Canada car pass or get licenced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No holes, but scars. ( hence the full frame off in 2007)
I SO want to get mine rotisseried - no idea if anybody down here can even do it, but that'll be my quest for the winter (while the '96 is in storage). If for no other reason than to get the fuel and brake lines off the top of the frame so I can get at 'em when they (inevitably) start leaking. Had that illustrated when the gears went in; I asked him to look at the lines on top of the axle while he was in there, he said one had been recently replaced and the other one was "crumbly", it started leaking while he was in there so he replaced it too.

So anyways... the job is done as far as I can take it. Of course it HAD to give me another Titanic-sized fight; the front outer seatbelts bolt through the carpet, so they have to be unbolted to get the carpet out. And I. COULD. NOT!!! move the driver-side bolt. Tried everything (except heat) - I was using a #45 Torx because the #50 wouldn't quite fit and all the others came out with the #45, but after hammering on the bolt a couple'a times I hammered the $50 into it. Unable to move it in either direction, so I sprayed it with 3-in-1 silicone and went to work on the passenger-side; it gave me a good ol' fight but it came out. Came back to the driver-side; still COULD NOT turn it loose, so I tried tightening it - sure, why not? And it tightened. Just a bit. So I reversed the ratchet and it loosened. Just a bit. Sprayed silicone under it, repeated as necessary - many more times - and got it out. And got the carpet out; it was sopping wet underneath, and the floor is in "repairable, but needs a lot of work" shape.

Does anybody sell full (or partial) B floorpans?
 

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Does anybody sell full (or partial) B floorpans?
Nope. Not for these B Body cars anyways. Have to find someone with donor parts. preferably from the southwestern USA.

Glad my car is a life long Florida car. Even those rust though, they just do it backwards here, from the roof down. Mine has a hole in the pass floor thanks to a leaking A/C evap box.
 

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Kinda crazy I got a spotless rust free ontario car in 2019. The next day the original owner bought it he had it oil sprayed. I continue the tradition with it. 3 years later and still no rust, yucky to work with but I've never fought with a rusted bolt on this car.

Some of the original stuff I pulled out of the car
Wood Font Motor vehicle Metal Handle
Bicycle tire Automotive tire Bicycle frame Tool Bicycle part
Bicycle part Composite material Gas Auto part Metal
Snake Reptile Automotive tire Scaled reptile Serpent



Sorry for the thread derail 😳
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah, I'll have to get in touch with him; thanks for the info! And Toonwarrior, I'm deeply envious; your ride is in "factory" condition and you have both sway bars!

I'm currently driving mine around with no interior, just the driver's seat - and seatbelt, in case I get pulled over. It was supposed to go under the torch on Monday, but their welder is out with the 'Rona so I booked two days with him - starting next Wednesday. Went to the local "big city", 1-1/2 hrs away; we took her Subaru <#sadface> but her Soob' has the H6 and it WAILS! Still rather drive the RM, but only one seat. Noisy as all get-out, but with the interior out of it, it weighs a lot less and it really leaps off the line :LOL:
 
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