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Discussion Starter #1
Calling all wagon gurus! I need your help!

Now that two of our own have moderator abilities, let's build the biggest, bestest tech thread on wagon options!

Post up what you know! Suspension options, frame differences, interior options, axle options, tow package options, colors, seats, 1A2 options, '96 production rarities, differences from sedans, everything! The more the better!


Once we get to critical mass, Firewood or I will boil it down into one big nice post.

Post away fellas!
 

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I have a 93 RMW (now has impala ss grille and no woodgrain)
350 TBI has tow package with 3.23 posi
was white with tan interior
has the vista glass rollout shade
power heated mirrors
solar heated windshield.(this looks like mirror tint if you see it from the front)
power everything. I have the window sticker still It was almost $30,000 on it. A very loaded car for 93

I paid $400 for it with a bad motor at 159,000 miles 4 years ago
just turned 183,000 last week
 

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OCCs have red/orange needles on the gauges vs. 91-93 RMS has white. The OCCs also have a map pocket on the passenger's side of the woodgrained dash.
The 91 OCC does not have a center clip for the sun visors. The headliner is held up by velcro strips at the locations for the clips on others. 92s do have the center clip, and do not have the velcro strips.
Some of the 91 OCCs have manual window regulators with different front door panels.

To remove the rear wing windows, you first have to remove the roll pin at the latch mechanism, open the window to the maximum, then remove the hinge pins with a long screwdriver.

The front window track/seals are not interchangable between 91-94 and 95-96 model years, because of the different mirror treatments.

Earlier models have a two connector auto dim (also includes compass) rear view mirror and later ones have a single flat connector that plugs directly into the mirror. The later models have a different trim piece over the wires.

RMS rear door panels can be used on a wagon if you replace the top wiper strip with one from a Caprice sedan or another wagon.
 

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To remove the rear wing windows, you first have to remove the roll pin at the latch mechanism, open the window to the maximum, then remove the hinge pins with a long screwdriver.
An alternative, when the roll pin is rusty, is to unscrew the latch from the car and swing the window out.

Remove the hinge pins. I may have used a piece of coat hanger to tap them out but not sure.

If you need to remove the plastic square, snip it on the thin side and slide it off. When re-installed it's hardly noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tow package '94-96 Caprice and Roadmaster wagons got mechanical fans, and external transmission cooler. Not sure if they got anything else. Posi was an option on all gear ratios. '94-96 Gear ratio options were 2.56 or 2.93. '91-93 gear ratio options were 2.73 and 3.23. A common mod is to install a 3.23 posi from a '91-93 car into a '94-96 car and then get the PCM reprogrammed for the new gear.

Radio changed for '95-96 on all wagons.
 

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Early RMWs (91-93 I think) did not have the passenger assist handles over the doors (the Oh S..t handles), and the headliners can be interchanged with the OCCs.

Some Caprice and OCCs did not have rear window defrost (delete?) The OCCs also have the rear defrost button missing from the electronic HVAC panel.
 

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how to open rear glass when the buttons don't work

If the solenoid and key in the tailgate fail to open the rear glass you can get it open using the following method

1. Get a buddy to help as someone has to catch the glass when you release it.

2. remove the plastic cover that covers the wiper motor above the tailgate.

3. Use a 10mm wrench and remove the four nuts holding the hinges to the body.

4. use the interior handle to release the tailgate into the down position (doubt it would swing out)

5. remove fasteners along bottom of tailgate cover

6. Position buddy to hold glass and make sure they know it's heavy (my buddy dropped it on the ground - good thing tempered glass is tough!)

7. reach your hand up in there and feel for the release mechanism it's in the middle about halfway up ( if somebody has a pic, of the workings with the cover removed that'd help alot (I pulled the cover off of another wagon to check) and release the glass.

8. Remove screws along top of cover and remove

9. Fix issue and install.

I've removed about 4 or 5 rear glass this way. If you need to swap out the window and have the gate open it's a one man operation.
 

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If the solenoid and key in the tailgate fail to open the rear glass you can get it open using the following method

1. Get a buddy to help as someone has to catch the glass when you release it.

2. remove the plastic cover that covers the wiper motor above the tailgate.

3. Use a 10mm wrench and remove the four nuts holding the hinges to the body.

4. use the interior handle to release the tailgate into the down position (doubt it would swing out)

5. remove fasteners along bottom of tailgate cover

6. Position buddy to hold glass and make sure they know it's heavy (my buddy dropped it on the ground - good thing tempered glass is tough!)

7. reach your hand up in there and feel for the release mechanism it's in the middle about halfway up ( if somebody has a pic, of the workings with the cover removed that'd help alot (I pulled the cover off of another wagon to check) and release the glass.

8. Remove screws along top of cover and remove

9. Fix issue and install.

I've removed about 4 or 5 rear glass this way. If you need to swap out the window and have the gate open it's a one man operation.
The gate will open either way once you remove the hinge nuts, but the glass will flop around. Opening as a door is a lot more hazardous. I pulled one by myself, but it was a pain. The key will open the glass unless the latch is jammed. If the mechanism does not open the gate, there are two wire retainers that break readily (they are no longer available). They are in the slots to the right of the latch and on the right side near the top of the gate. You have to work the mechanism on the right to open as a gate.

If you have a bent gate, and you are not trying to save it, you can pry the lock bezel away from the gate, and pry the poprivets away from the lock which will come out (it is actually pretty easy)...a thin screwdriver will allow you to rotate the latch mechanism, and open the glass.
 

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For those who have lowered cars, and get a flat, I purchased a small scizzors jack that is about 2" tall when fully retracted. I use it to raise the car just high enough to get my OEM jack under the frame. When I put it back down, I lower the OEM jack all the way, then jack it enough with the smaller jack to get my OEM jack out. The smaller jack only takes a few hundred pounds of weight, so it is safe. The wagon will lift both wheels on one side when you jack it in front of the rear wheel. Make sure you apply the parking brake when jacking.
 

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Roofrack rivnuts from GM are expensive. If they spin when removing, I think there is often rust around the nut - this makes it difficult to replace with the same sized rivnut. I bought 1/2" aluminum (easier to crush) rivnuts from a bolt store, so the crusty hole had to be enlarged slightly.

I have had problems with replacement rear window struts causing the rear defrost not to work. On Armstrong struts you can un-thread the ball from the strut end and sand the paint off the bottom of the strut, this allows the electricity to flow through the strut assembly.

The stock wagon blower fans have a taller squirrel cage with more vanes than the replacements you can buy from GM. I was not happy with the airflow from the replacement, so I returned it and replaced it with a functioning used wagon unit.

Rear sway bars can be found on some 71-76 B-bodies which are the correct width for the wagon rear, but the bar will sit too high and would hit the pumpkin. Spacers or custom taller LCA inserts would be required.
 

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Roofrack rivnuts from GM are expensive. If they spin when removing, I think there is often rust around the nut - this makes it difficult to replace with the same sized rivnut. I bought 1/2" aluminum (easier to crush) rivnuts from a bolt store, so the crusty hole had to be enlarged slightly.
The original rivnuts are metric, and I found them in the local ACE hardware. You can weld the holes and redrill to use the OEM screws.

Nut inserts avaliable at http://www.fastenermart.com/ $24.91 shipped for 50. Also avaliable in aluminium, and zink plated.
Min166-9442 M5-0.8 insert A-T Series, Steel, Cadmium Plated, AVK.
 

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If the solenoid and key in the tailgate fail to open the rear glass you can get it open using the following method
1. Get a buddy to help as someone has to catch the glass when you release it.
2. remove the plastic cover that covers the wiper motor above the tailgate.
3. Use a 10mm wrench and remove the four nuts holding the hinges to the body.
4. use the interior handle to release the tailgate into the down position (doubt it would swing out)
5. remove fasteners along bottom of tailgate cover
6. Position buddy to hold glass and make sure they know it's heavy (my buddy dropped it on the ground - good thing tempered glass is tough!)
7. reach your hand up in there and feel for the release mechanism it's in the middle about halfway up ( if somebody has a pic, of the workings with the cover removed that'd help alot (I pulled the cover off of another wagon to check) and release the glass.
8. Remove screws along top of cover and remove
9. Fix issue and install.
I've removed about 4 or 5 rear glass this way. If you need to swap out the window and have the gate open it's a one man operation.

You can also get in the rear area, pull the gate plastic panel out just enough to reach your arm in and pop the window latch. Very quick and easy one man operation. Just don't pull it too far as the top is still screwed to the door but the rest are plastic door-panel type clips.
 

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You can also get in the rear area, pull the gate plastic panel out just enough to reach your arm in and pop the window latch. Very quick and easy one man operation. Just don't pull it too far as the top is still screwed to the door but the rest are plastic door-panel type clips.
I have found panel screws under the corners of the carpet on the tailgate interior, and some of the newer cars have screws holding the interior on the side flanges which are hidden by the gate jams when the gate is closed.
 

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The original rivnuts are metric, and I found them in the local ACE hardware. You can weld the holes and redrill to use the OEM screws.
Thule (the rack company) used to put "Nutserts" in their truck cap mouting systems. They were expansion nuts that you could drill a hole from the top and then insert and expand them into a hole. Then back out the "tool" and use that hole for a roof rack. My be just the ticket for roof rack issues..........
 

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Thule (the rack company) used to put "Nutserts" in their truck cap mouting systems. They were expansion nuts that you could drill a hole from the top and then insert and expand them into a hole. Then back out the "tool" and use that hole for a roof rack. My be just the ticket for roof rack issues..........
They sound like the same thing by a different name, because the installation is identical. The size is the issue...they are small and when they rust (which they always do) the inserts rotate with the screw instead of the screw turning in the inserts.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If your rear windshield washer sprayer isn't working, trace the line from the pump. There is some sort of checkvalve or fitting just off the pump that fractured on mine.

If you live in snow country, remove your hood ornament before winter and reinstall it in the spring. It'll make cleaning your hood off a lot easier.

If it gets cold in the winter where you live and you still have the mechanical fan, remove the belt for the winter. You won't miss it.
 
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