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Since the old thread is probably gone, and I came across a file of mine showing the part numbers, I figured I'd repost the setup.

Sway Bar: Ford YW7Z-5A772-CA
End Links: Energy Suspension 9.8125 ENS-9-8125R
Bushings: Energy Suspension 9.5157 ENS-9-5157G
3” exhaust clamps: Summit SUM-G4730 SUM-G4730

I think the above parts came to maybe $100. I ordered the sway bar new from gentryfordparts.com but any online Ford will do.

This shows the muffler clamps as the pivot/bushing mount on the axle, and the relationship of the end link to the frame. I changed mine to go into the crossbracing U-channel next to it for an even more solid mount.



Completed, you can hardly even see it's there. No loss of ground clearance.



I think this took me all of 30 minutes to install, when I originally bolted the end links into that slotted frame brace. Drilling holes into the U-channel was a bit of a chore, but was a simple task. I put the WS6 bar up front, and this 4,200 lb wagon feels more like a sport sedan.

If anybody has any questions for clarification, just post and I'll answer them.
 

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what year rear bar did you use? will a rear 9c1 bar work on a caprice wagon?
 

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"MoPar or, NoCar" guy

You had posted this 'how-to' (BC) Before Crash, and I tried to respond, but something had me blocked, then 'poof' everything was gone.

Glad you re-poseted.

Since I was the one who thought this rear bar swap on the wagons and posted a pictorial 'how-to' a couple of years or so ago. I wanted to ask; How in the hell did you get a NEW bar from the F0rd dealer for a "Ben Franklin"?!!

When I 'discoverd' the identicial rear frame/suspension/exhaust set up between the Corwn Vic and the Caprice Sedan/Wagon, I made a trip to the F0rd 'stealer' to price out a CV rear bar 'kit'
They gave me a rough figure of $350 (?) something, jsut for the BAR ALONE! Four letter word, them!

In the U-pullit yard, where there were 'boo-coo' CV's. several were on their sides. I discovered the (mid to early '90's) 'civilian' CV/Merc did NOT have rear sway bars. ONLY the COP (whatever F0rd's code is for the police pkg) CV's had the rear bar.

You used clamps and bolted your housing mounts on. I cut the CV rearend housing mounts off, and re-welded them to the Wagon rear end housing. Same differnce, same IMPROVED handling, (Your design is 100% bolt in! I wanted to match the OEM CV mounting 100%.) without the cost of special LCA's. and a well known aftermarket brand name front/rear bar kit.

Still like to know, how you got a new bar from the F0rd 'stealer' for a $100?

BTW, since your 'signature' is MoPar, what 'mopes' do you have? Guy on here has the unofficial LOWEST street driven '55 Savoy 2-door in the US! Several winters ago up there, someone threw a snowball at him, and when he drove over it, he got hung up,,,,,,,,

You can use the CV exhaust (tail pipes) to eliminate the Caprice resonators. To those that do NOT want to put a F0rd exhaust on a Caprice, the brick shaped Caddys, have the same tail pipes W/O reasonators as the 'jelly bean' Caprices. Also, the COP CV (?) has a power steering cooler. You can look in the; '95 No Wood Wagon in the for sale section to see how I mounted the cooler.

How was your handling differnce, after you did the CV rear bar swap?
 

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I put the WS6 bar up front
Please explain what this is and a part #
 

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Thanks for the repost Moparman!
 

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swaybar

great write write up. i checked the gentry site for prices the description says bar is 22mm.but the bushing part number 95157g is for a 20.5mm bar from energy. the correct size is part #95158g for a 22mm bar. did the 95157g work.i want to do this mod to both of my wagons just want to make sure i get the right parts. again thanks for the info
 

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GOOGLE IS YOUR FRIEND<
type in just about any part # ..........even FerD stuff

Below is a list of rear stabilizer bars for 1992 and later crown victorias.


Part Number
Diameter (mm)
Year Range
Comments
Suggested Retail

3W1Z-5A772-AA
15.0
03-
Base Suspension
$59.98


F0VY-5A772-A
17.0
92-97
Used on 1990 towncars & 92-97 crownvics. Type-S. Obsolete
F8AZ-5A772-AA
17.0
98-00
Police & CNG. (Superceded by YW7Z-5A772-AA) (Used on base 98-00 towncars too)
Superceded by
YW7Z-5A772-AA
YW7Z-5A772-AA
17.0
01-
Includes 2 insulators
$72.15


F1VY-5A772-A
17.8
92-
Type-S (Used on all 91-97 towncars and also 98+ limos)
$48.32





F3AZ-5A772-A
21.0
93-00
Handling Package. Type S/H
Obsolete
YW7Z-5A772-CA
21.0
01-
Handling Package (Used on 2003 & 2004 mercury marauders too)
$56.65


Below is a list of rubber insulators that connect the rear axle to the stabilizer bar


Part Number
Diameter
Years
Comments
Suggested Retail





F0VY-5493-B
17.0
92-00

??Obsolete??
6W1Z-5493-C
17.0
01-
Supercedes YW7Z-5493-AB $13.32
F1VY-5493-C
17.8
92-

$26.65
YW7Z-5493-CA
21.0
93-
Supercedes F2AZ-5493-B
$11.65


Below are the rear stabilizer link and bracket part numbers


Part Number
Years
Comments
Suggested Retail




F0VY-5486-A
92-02
Rear Stabilizer Bar Bracket (Fits all 17, 18, and 21mm bar insulators)
Superceded by
3W1Z-5486-AA
N605907-S440
92-
Bolt M8 x 1.25 x 33 Hex Flng Pil
(Supercedes:
N605907-S2
N605907-S309)
$6.48
N808043-S56
92-
Nut M8 x 1.25 U P/T (Supercedes N800911-S55)
$11.00
3W1Z-5486-AA
03-04
Rear Stabilizer Bar Bracket
$6.65




6W1Z-5664-AA
92-
Rear Stabilizer Bar Link (Does not include nuts)
(Supercedes: F1VY-5664-A) $15.00
N621941-S441
92-
Nut & Washer M8 x 1.25 Hex
(Supercedes:
N621941-S36
N621941-S427)
$8.00



Notes:
  • Many 2000 and later civilian crown vics and grand marquises do not have a rear stabilizer bar. All crown vics with the police and civilian handling package do have rear bars though. If in doubt whether your car has a rear bar or not, take a look under the car.
  • Police rear swaybars are 17mm. Police coil springs are very stiff.
  • Civilian Handling Package rear swaybars are 21mm but they are coupled with the relatively low rate civilian rear air springs
  • All lincoln 1992+ towncars have rear air springs.
  • Bigger is not always better. Have an understanding of the concepts of oversteer & understeer before "upgrading" sway bars.
  • 1991 & prior "box bodies" used a different rear swaybar setup than later models and these bars are NOT interchangeable. Additionally, to add a rear sway bar onto a 1991 or prior "box body", one would need a 1991 or prior swaybar and also would have to replace the lower control arms with ones that had holes drilled in them for the swaybar mounts (i.e. police control arms). On 1992 and later models, the rear endlinks connect directly to the vehicle's frame rather than the lower control arms
  • Nick
 

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WOW! Look at ALL this information!

I wish 'this' information was available when I did my swap! It would have made the 'guessing, KY windage, two people on a tape measure, trail and error,' SO much easier!

"dandman", what 'drilling' are you refering to? I did NO drilling. Once I welded the CV center bar mounts to the Wagon rear end housing, exactly the way they were welded on the CV. EVERYTHING was bolt in!
 

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How different is the effect of the rear bar when hooking it to the axle, and then the frame, vs hooking it to both control arms. Is the control arm to control arm bar less effective? and why it's a 26mm unit, where as the fords used a much smaller unit? If this setup is more effective, I'm tempted to use this on my Sedan as an upgraded rear bar, while using a set of stock lower control arms that are boxed by myself.

Aka, a cheap effective junkyard/ home setup.
 

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The thickest Ford swaybars came on Marauders and Crown Victoria Sports. Quite a bit thicker than the P71 Police parts I think. Also a quick ebay search shows plenty of aftermarket bars in various sizes larger than stock and in the $100-130 range.

As far as the effectiveness it all depends on the length of the lever arm, the material of the bar, and the geometry of the bar (length, diameter, tube vs solid etc). From a design standpoint the Ford bar has the advantages of not stressing the lower control arms and their bushings and mounting points. It only exerts vertical force on the axle tubes (which can take it) and vertical force through the end links into (a pretty beefy part of) the frame. The fact that those cheap hardware store 3/8ths inch probably grade 3 u-bolts have held up and not slipped at all is a pretty good testament to the fact that nothing is binding and its working as it should.

The best design is the bar that mounts in bearings mounted to the frame and has adjustable length lever arms going to endlinks that drop to the axle. Serious drag racers use those a lot. They have the additional advantages of adjustability, the ability to preload, and less unsprung weight. But for the B-body crowd in my opinion the Vic bar is as slick as it gets, especially for us wagon guys.
 

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I realize there are alot of aftermarket bars out there. But they still require a set of $200+ rear arms, on top of the $120 bar cost. Last time I was at the junkyard, there were quite few Town Cars, and Crown Vics. Plus, my dad has a few Town Cars around, that I could take a bar off to fit, and not be out any money if I don't like it, and put it back.

I forgot about the Anti-roll bar drag racers use. Can see how this bar can be adjusted to give a similar effects. I'll be adding this to the suspension sticky.
 

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This is pretty cool! I'm wondering where the drilling is? In the frame, where the links attach?

Here's an Upgaded ADDCO bar from Summit, that comes with everything but the exhaust clamps for 150 bucks.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACO-650/?image=large

I may just have to try this. How's the car, nuetral?
 

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Cory, The Ford bar eliminates the need for aftermarket control arms. You spend 120 on the bar and $5 at tractor supply for u-bolts.

Bill, Yes, the only drilling is the 2 holes you put in the frame for the end links.
 

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OK, I'll give you all what I 'discovered,' on the frame between the Wagon and CV.

This is mid to early '90's CV. Later years CV may be differnt. (?) I do NOT know about what Lincolns had. Simply because, at this U-pullit yard, there was very few '90's Lincolns and none were on their sides. There had seemed to be a large fleet accuastion of ex Cop cars. Caprices AND CV's, and several of each were on their sides.

Compairing the CV Cop car rear frame design to the Caprice wagon rear frame, they are practiaclly identical, in measurments and design.
The ONLY differnc eI spotted, was the little frame gusset plate on a CV had a HOLE where the wagon had a SLOT. The wagon's SLOT was the same width as the CV's HOLE.
That HOLE on the CV is where the sway bar link bolt bushing bolted to.
I simply took a piece of metal and welded into the wagon's slot, to have a hole.

I did the CV rear bar swap, because several years ago, on this site there were posts of how someone had 'forced' a SS/9C-1 sedan rear bar 'over' to fit the wagon LCA's, and 'discovered' damage was beeing done to the wagon LCA's.
Almost every other post (BC) before crash, was about Wagon LCA's not being able to take the stress of adding a OM SS/9C-1, or aftermarket, rear bar.
Other than GM, every other vehicle make's, rear sway bar design, has the center of the bar mounted to the rear end housing, then the link bolts are mounted to the frame.
Then the 'cure' was 'biefer' LCA's with pre drilled holes for aftermarket rear bar mounting. Some requiring a front bar along with the rear bar.
The result was SUPERIOR, IMPROVED handling over OM! But,,,,,, at a co$t!

After reading these posts and seeing the pictures,,,,,,, there HAD to be a 'poor man's' cure, there just HAD to be another alternitive.

Actually I sumbled onto the CV rear bar quite by accident. (Isn't that how things get 'discovered' "by accident"?)
It started. Trying to get dual exhaust on a '90 VINed and titled Caprice, but a '91 up body style. (?)
NO muffler shop could make that sharp bend over the rear axle. The ONLY soloution was pay dearly for SS Impala dual tailpipes, throw a way the resonators. It would fit, and work, but NOT cost productive.
I 'discovered' that the 'brick' shaped Caddys, '77 up, had that same tight bend over the rear axle as the SS and caprice sedans. So a left and right, late '80's Caddy tailpipes had the same bends as the SS/Caprice, only W/O the reasonator!
After (on a whim) crossing the Caddy tailpipe #'s to see what else popped up. Here the same tailpipe on the Caddys, was used on the '80s and well as the '90s (new body style) CV's! I think, the CV tailpipes were a little cheaper than the Caddy pipes, even though they were IDENTICAL!

While in this U-pullit yard with soime buddys, I discovered a CV cop car has a PS cooler. The larger. Caprice wagons didn't have coolers. It was easier to take that cooler off a CV that was on it's side, than one laying on the ground. THAT was when I noticed the similaritys of the rear frames. The some measuring,,,,,,. At this yard, over in the Chevy section there was a wagon in it's side, to compaire.
Unbolting the CV bar and holding it up to that turned over wagon, it fit perfectly!
I was quite proud of my self. Here I discoverd an alternative to the costiler aftermarket wagon rear bar problem!

I posted my discovery, pictorial 'how-to' on this site, and was met with very mixed, (cold) reviews. (Prarphrased) Ford parts on a Chevy, etc. Ford's design won't work on the heavier wagons, etc, and several more, mostly negative comments.
I KNEW it worked, and was sastified, with finding an alternitive to the wagon rear bar problem.

I guess, NOW several years later, someone remembered the CV rear bar swap, several have preformed the swap, and are giving testomonials to the low cost, installition ease, and improved handling!
 

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Thanks for reposting this!

I recently got an 11/16" rear bar from a junk '97 Grand Marquis. Ordered Energy Suspension greasable bushings, new links with urethane bushings for a 2000 Crown Vic, and a pair of 3" muffler clamps. All from AutoZone.

All I need to do is wire-wheel and paint the bar to install.

I also got greasable bushings and new links [all urethane] for the stock front bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes, all credit to NGrownToNale as I'm certain it was his post which started it all.

Front WS6 bar was from a 2nd Gen. T/A. The width is perfect, but the angle where it bolts to the end link is off somewhat but still works.

When you get it all bolted to the axle and lined up, the links will want to go - nowhere. If you move then forward IIRC then you can bolt them into the slotted frame braces. If you direct them slightly rearward, they will point to this substantial U-shaped cross brace and can attach them there after drilling holes.

Yep, like $50 was all I paid for a brand new Ford C.V. rear sway bar.

As stated, the best setup is to have the sway bar suspended and pivoting on the frame, and then the end links attach to the axle housing. This is how it is on my '80 Chrysler Cordoba LS (300) rear bar. Think of how it is with the front bar.

Flat, stable handling. You'll be amazed at how easy it is.
 

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Does anyone have a picture of the slotted hole you're talking about? And did you take pics of where you drilled?
 
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