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Thanks for reposting this!

I recently got an 11/16" rear bar from a junk '97 Grand Marquis. Ordered Energy Suspension greasable bushings, new links with urethane bushings for a 2000 Crown Vic, and a pair of 3" muffler clamps. All from AutoZone.

All I need to do is wire-wheel and paint the bar to install.

I also got greasable bushings and new links [all urethane] for the stock front bar.
 

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Ditto on the tailpipes. When my last Grand Marquis bit the dust, I removed the only-6-month-old dual exhaust system for the next Panther I would buy.

But then I found a '77 Coupe DeVille for $100. The Panther tailpipes fit as though they were made for the car. Can't say the same for the H-pipe, with that trans crossmember made for the HUGE pellet catalyst.

But with some tweaking, I had a 2-1/4" dual system to let that 425 breathe!

I dont recall the Cadillac complaining about what vehicle the system was from...

When the Caddy gave up the ghost, I took the system off again. I think now I will adapt the tailpipes and Dynomaxes to my Caprice, as I was quoted $500 for a 2-1/4" cat-back with tailpipes from the same shop that built the used system.
 

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I installed the Crown Vic rear sway bar today. I had previously installed 4 new KYB's [not happy] and cargo coils out back. The bar was from a '97 Grand Marquis and measures 11/16".

My recipe:

Links: Duralast 18229HD (2) for a 2000 Cr Vic. Includes urethane bushings.

Bushings: Energy Susp 9.5155R [greaseable] for 11/16" bar.

2- 3" muffler clamps.

I put the rear of the car up on jack stands, but before installing the links, I jacked the axle back up to ride height.

I was able to install it in about an hour. There was some trial and error to get the clamps and bushings clocked properly to avoid the pumpkin, even things side to side, and put the ends of the bar directly under the frame braces. The links then slid right in place.

The only things I dont like are that the ends of the sway bar are not flat, but twisted slightly down and out. The links also seemed too long, maybe shorter ones would put the arms of the bar more parallel to the ground. That would also help minimise any effect of that twist on the bar ends.

I also changed the oil & filter, and swapped the front bar bushings and links for urethane ones.

Front bushings: Energy Susp 9.5163G 28mm Greaseable.

Front Links: Energy Susp 9.8123R

So...

WOW!! The car drives like a completely different vehicle! A couple of rattles were eliminated, and it corners MUCH flatter than before. Corners I had to slow for can now be taken at speed. No, it's not a 'Vette or Camaro, but for a big boat, WOW!
 

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Update: Yesterday, my brother and I took a 300 mile road trip through Ohio's "Appalachia" region. When negotiating freeway interchanges, the car handled amazingly neutral! I pushed it near the adhesion limits of the tires, and it would not over or under steer, but all the tires started howling.

I also looked under the car while it was on a level surface, and the arms of the sway bar are parallel with the ground, so I guess the links are the right length, not too long like I originally thought.

I am more than pleased with this easy and inexpensive mod.
 

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I agree. When I installed my sway bar, I just had new rear brake lines installed. I told the shop not to tie them down to the axle. I simply put the muffler clamps under the brake lines, then pushed the hold down tabs around the lines. I then used nylon wire ties to further secure the lines to the axle, so they wont rub on anything.
 

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I just installed the Crown Vic bar using the forward holes that I enlarged slightly. Everything lined up nice and the handling is FLAT. Used the original rubber bushings from the Crown Vic and MOOD K6630 endlinks.
Need to tweak the gas tank heat shield. It's hitting on big bumps.
Are you saying the 'heat shield hitting' is related to the sway bar?

How is it even near the sway bar? The tailpipes are between the bar and the tank heat shields.

Or did you install the sway bar with the arms facing backwards?
 

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I'm sorry. I'm not trying to be a smart a**, I just cant picture how this could be happening.

Your tailpipes are between the axle and the tank shield.

Maybe you could 'clock' the sway bar down and forward a little more so it wont hit anything? It took me a few minutes of moving my bar around before I got the side-to-side position and clocking on the axle right and then I tightened it down.
 

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Maybe I'm reading your post wrong, but why not just reuse the factory hardware? Mine, on an Ohio car, came off without a problem. When I reinstalled with the new bushings, I put some anti-seize on the threads, and no problem going back in. If you want to upgrade the front bar mounting, there are extensive threads on that option.
 

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So this mod will or won't make a side to side movement improvement? I'm looking for a mod to help with towing heavier loads. I was told that mod would be a sway bar but now I'm reading a slightly different story.

It IS a mod for a sway bar, to improve handling and cornering. How would that not help with towing? It wont improve towing capacity, but certainly improve handling and cornering while towing OR empty.
 
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