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Think about the front bar attaching point for the bushings. There are four relatively small bolts holding the bushing plate to the frame. The muffler clamps appear to be far stronger than those bolts so I would judge that the attachment of the anti-sway bar to the axle is substantial. I've checked mine and it has not rotated or shifted whatsoever. I don't baby this car in the turns, and it gets a good workout as a wagon. The rear end links are also rock solid, and sit as close to perpendicular as my eyeballs can tell.
That's a very good point. There really isn't all that much "strength" holding on the front bar, and it sees higher side loads...

Worst case, I'm out what, 25 bucks for a boneyard bar? :) I think I'm going to try it when I do the SS rear in the wagon. It'll save me some "up front" money for beefier control arms.
 

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Any one have experience with this Addco bar?

Ebay Item number: 120351412998
 

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Today’s trivia question:

“Name a chassis that was offered the same model years with both the lower control arm -to- lower control arm setup (B-body) and the axle mounted bar with attaching links to the body (Panther)?”

“Hmm, the ’84-‘92 Fox chassis?”

”You are correct! Mustangs had the first setup and Mark VII’s used the second,”

“And the reason the Mustangs got the one that tends to overstress the arms and restricts suspension movement is?”

“That would be in the bu…uh, cost savings, Bob.”

“We have a winner!”

Note that Mark VII’s do not have any special body reinforcements to support the installation short of a set of tabs welded to the subframe to pick up the endlinks.

If anything the Ford setup should be safer, in that once an endlink breaks - the most likely failure mode - the bar ceases to function and goes along for the ride.

Conversely, if a B-car rear anti-swaybar system fails, then either the control arm has been compromised - which some may consider alarming - or one end of the bar is now hanging loose, just waiting to catch that raised manhole cover - which some may not.

It may just be me, but I like the idea of using the Panther bar. Thank you to those of you who spent the time to figure it out and share it with us.

And I already have a sedan rear bar on my wagon.

And no, it wasn’t forced to fit.

BTW - This Steeda kit includes the pieces that effectively add a Mark VII bar to supplement the Mustang bar.

http://www.steeda.com/products/adjustable_rear_swaybar.php

The photo should offer some insight into adding the Ford bar to a chassis that wasn’t so equipped.

- J
 

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"Striper" You are absoulty right! The law of 'threes!'

Modify ONE thing. THREE more related to that ONE will have to be modified in some way or another!

If I may, let me take your surmation to the next level.

There is a thick booklet put out by Addico, called; "Handling What It Is And How To Get It"

There is an article in there about coil sprung, link bar/controll arm suspension, sway bar mounted to the LCA's vs to the frame. THAT will settle ANY argument as to which design is better! But,,,,,, as "Striper'' said, how far are you going to be willing to go,,,,, before,,,,,?

OK, the easiest/cheapest up grade to ANY suspension is a anti-roll/sway bar, PERIOD!
Now take "Stiper's way of thinking.
A common vehicle,,,, lets take a stock suspensioned sedan from the '60's It can only go so fast into a certain radius turn, before,,,,,,,,?
Now, add a front anti sway bar. That same car can take that same turn now at a faster speed.
Now, add radial tires. That car can safely take that turn faster.
Now lt's add urathane bushings. Faster yet.
(OEM rubber busings have a 2" give built into them. meaning OEM rubber busings will let the car lean/roll/give 2" before they start to work.)

Polyurtane bushings, faster yet,,,,,, before?
Ok, here is where the "before,,,,,?" comes in.
That vehicle is now negoiting that turn as a speed greater than is was orginally designed to.
Notice what I said. The car is now able (succesfully) to go that fast(er) certain speed through that same turn, but at a speed faster than the car was orginally design for.
What is happening, ALL of the improvemnts (except for the tire change over) had been to the front of the vehicle.
The inside REAR is lifting high,,,, sometimes the inside REAR tire is off the ground, transfering ALL that extra weight on the outside front. Something now has to ,,,,,'before',,,,? Wheel breaks, tire roll off the rim, A-arms crack, spindle breaks,,,,????

So the NEXT step, to this '60's sedan that has had all these FRONT suspension up grades,,,, is, to the rear. Urathane, or polyurthane bushings in the rear, and above all, a REAR anit roll/sway bar to bring the inside rear back down, to transfer the weight off the outside front.
Now you can go FASTER yet through that same turn!

Now what's next? Indinpendent rear suspension,,,, That car can now take that same turn safely at twice the speed it could orginally. Whoo-Haw!

Now, the front suspension is over loaded,,,,,,,(again) lets' see, Tublar A'arms and needle bearing in place of the busings. MORE speed in that same turn.

OK now lits go with tublar REAR A-arms,,,,, faster yet th,,,,,,,,,,,,. Wait a minute!

You now have a sedan that can corner just as good as a Indy or open wheeled race car,,,,, and that is it. Other than you now have 10 trimes what the vehicle is worth! It can't be driven safely on the street, no supension give for the pot holes, RR track and a million other road hazards, or 'normal' hazards in the road, that a bone OEM vehicle doesn't even notice!

See what "Striper" is saying? How far are you willing to go? The rule of threes!

Those frame gussets, slot in the caprice, hole in the CV, hard street driven, some auto X'ing are NOT going to break/crack!
I have see a small piece of 3/16" angle iron welded to the side of the frame for the link bolts to fasten to,,,,,, never broke or cracked. Some dirt track roundy rounds have less of a mount that what is in these CV's and wagons!
The LCA's will/have broke before that gusset!

There is a guy down here that bought a Y2-K or '01 Extended cab Dodge Cummins dually.

He likes to tinker. He tinkered that truck to a ungodly 1,200 hp and 900+ ft # of tourque!
The ONLY thing that is orginal on that truck is the body! It 'looks' just like ti did brand new!
60 mph in OD , gently give it some fuel, the 4 rear tires will spin.
10 second 1/4 mile times. This is with a almost a 9,000 pound truck!
This truck is so useless, it can't be driven very far on the street. The exhaust gas temps get too high! But, it can 'smoke' any Corvette!
Smoke! I guarantee you there are NO bugs of ANY kind around his place!

Matt, the spring perch idea you mentioned, is almost how the CV has the bar mounted to it's rear end housing! I used the CV swaybar to axle housing mounts, and welded them to the wagon housing in the same angle location they were on the CV!

It is better to have a piece of bungy cord back there to help keep the rear end of these wagons from lifting up and putting too much ,,,,,, before,,,? on the outside front, than nothing at all!

Those that want to go the ho$ki$ (or however you spell it) EVERYTHING, or to those that use the CV bar and muffler clamps, it's what your 'heart' tells you, or what you 'beleive in'

I 'beleive' I found a better/cheaper 'mousetrap' when I did this swap several years ago. To me, I thought all of these LCA's cracking/breaking was dangerous, but, some took it as every day normal useage, wear and tear.
 

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If one is really concerned about the frame braces the endlinks mount to you could bolt through a length of u-channel. It should have sufficient section modulus to keep from bending and will spread the load on that brace. Judging from the Panther frame and Jay's fun bit of trivia I would be comfortable with it. And Jay is right; I'd rather kink that brace (no-one has yet) than wreck a lower control arm (not unheard of).
 

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Is it the angle the picture was taken at?or are the rod ends running up at an angle to meet the end links? it looks like the need to come down at least a couple of inches to be level.Seems to me at that angle once the bar starts to get loaded it would either bend the link or break it.
 

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I think you missed my point. That sway bar setup may be adequate for a Crown Vic sedan going to that frame brace, but we're talking about a lot of extra weight, a lot farther from the axle here.
I have a lot of experience with different sway bar setups on cars, as I was champion in my class, autocrossing in the 79 - 80 season with a 67 Malibu. There were no aftermarket parts for that car back then, so there was lots of experimentation and parts swapping to get me to that point. I broke more suspension parts trying different things than most of you here.
I worked on other peoples cars too. I put an Addco bar on my wifes car because she wanted to autocross too, and it was just like the Crown Vic setup. She actually tore it out of the frame during one event, and we had to weld up gussets to reinstall it. This was a car much lighter than our wagons by about 2,000lbs.
Our cars, with properly boxed lower control arms and a factory style bar will not break things.
When you put a side load force on a bracket that is designed to brace in only one direction, it will stress that bracket until there is some give.
Did I mention how much extra weight there is on our wagons?
I can believe in something till I'm blue in the face, but if it's unsound, my belief will not overcome it.
You are correct when you say that it's cheap to do, bolts in, and results in a performance improvement, however, I believe there will be a cost down the road.
 

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thanks for the re-post! i was just looking into a rear bar for my wagon and don't like the addco side-clamp install method, and the hotchkis bar is getting more $$$ by the day. golf caddy (bob) and i are thinking about getting the parts together for both wagons and tackling this in the near future. how's the shipping from the discount ford website at the attached link? this looks like a great project!
 

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I installed the Crown Vic rear sway bar today. I had previously installed 4 new KYB's [not happy] and cargo coils out back. The bar was from a '97 Grand Marquis and measures 11/16".

My recipe:

Links: Duralast 18229HD (2) for a 2000 Cr Vic. Includes urethane bushings.

Bushings: Energy Susp 9.5155R [greaseable] for 11/16" bar.

2- 3" muffler clamps.

I put the rear of the car up on jack stands, but before installing the links, I jacked the axle back up to ride height.

I was able to install it in about an hour. There was some trial and error to get the clamps and bushings clocked properly to avoid the pumpkin, even things side to side, and put the ends of the bar directly under the frame braces. The links then slid right in place.

The only things I dont like are that the ends of the sway bar are not flat, but twisted slightly down and out. The links also seemed too long, maybe shorter ones would put the arms of the bar more parallel to the ground. That would also help minimise any effect of that twist on the bar ends.

I also changed the oil & filter, and swapped the front bar bushings and links for urethane ones.

Front bushings: Energy Susp 9.5163G 28mm Greaseable.

Front Links: Energy Susp 9.8123R

So...

WOW!! The car drives like a completely different vehicle! A couple of rattles were eliminated, and it corners MUCH flatter than before. Corners I had to slow for can now be taken at speed. No, it's not a 'Vette or Camaro, but for a big boat, WOW!
 

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Installed the 21mm CV sway bar today.
The hardest part of this job is drilling the 2 -3/4" holes in the crossmember for the end links. The CV bar fits perfectly,with plenty of clearance to all other parts.
Bought the bar new from the local Ford dealer for$56.65 + tax .This is cheaper than On line where you have to pay shipping charges.
All included total cost was $107.21 for bar ,end links,bushings and clamps.
A bargain for the improvement in handling. Wagon takes corners like it was a 2009 model. Hard to believe GM did not do this as a factory standard.

Also replaced original halogen headlights with Sylvania Silverstar Ultra headlights bulbs 9004 SU .Purchased on Ebay, $19.49 for 2 bulbs,free shipping.
At least 50% brighter than stock bulbs.

So now I can take the curves faster and see where I am going.
 

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Also replaced original halogen headlights with Sylvania Silverstar Ultra headlights bulbs 9004 SU .Purchased on Ebay, $19.49 for 2 bulbs,free shipping.
At least 50% brighter than stock bulbs.
How did you winterize those stock bulbs to pull 15 years out of them? :eek:cwm1
Don't expect that out of the silverstars, The only pair I wasted my money on lasted less than a year.
 

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Bought the bar new from the local Ford dealer for$56.65 + tax .This is cheaper than On line where you have to pay shipping charges.
All included total cost was $107.21 for bar ,end links,bushings and clamps..
Could you post the part#'s for all this stuff?
i,d like to go shopping ,..
Nick
 

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Could you post the part#'s for all this stuff?
i,d like to go shopping ,..
Nick
Nick, maybe take the bar out of your Lincoln and try it out on the RMW! :D

But seriously, if this really makes a big difference in how the car handles, it seems like a pretty simple low $ task, with no major modifications required to accomplish.

What I find amusing is that there are folks who wouldn't dream of 'contaminating' their GM car with a Ford part, but the truth is many parts like that could be contracted to 'The XYZ Sway Bar Works' who supplies them for Ford, GM, Chrysler and even Toyota. I know this is the case for many parts like plastic fans, coolant reservoirs, interior trim and upholstery etc. - I know people who work in the plants making them! All they do is add a decal with the car company name or emboss the name in the plastic mold, and it's a 'Ford' or 'GM' part.

So I would have no problem with adding this sway bar to my RMW, and it was an amazing discovery (as stated earlier in this thread)

.
 

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Could you post the part#'s for all this stuff?
Exactly as stated in 1st post of this thread.
Sway Bar: Ford YW7Z-5A772-CA
End Links: Energy Suspension 9.8125 ENS-9-8125R
Bushings: Energy Suspension 9.5157 ENS-9-5157G
3” exhaust clamps: Summit SUM-G4730 SUM-G4730

Purcased the 3" clamps from autozone ,Bushings and end links on line from energy suspension, and bar from local ford dealer.
 

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Update: Yesterday, my brother and I took a 300 mile road trip through Ohio's "Appalachia" region. When negotiating freeway interchanges, the car handled amazingly neutral! I pushed it near the adhesion limits of the tires, and it would not over or under steer, but all the tires started howling.

I also looked under the car while it was on a level surface, and the arms of the sway bar are parallel with the ground, so I guess the links are the right length, not too long like I originally thought.

I am more than pleased with this easy and inexpensive mod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Get the word out. Pretty soon EVERY one of these wagons that comes up for sale will already have the rear bar mod on it.
 

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Maybe I'm missing something but I'm not using the channel on my 96 RMW. I see 2 holes on the frame piece on each side. I enlarged one for the endlinks. I haven't installed the Crown Vic bar yet(waiting on the bar bushings) but everything looks like it will line up. :confused:
 

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I just installed the Crown Vic bar using the forward holes that I enlarged slightly. Everything lined up nice and the handling is FLAT. Used the original rubber bushings from the Crown Vic and MOOG K6630 endlinks.
Need to tweak the gas tank heat shield. It's hitting on big bumps.
 

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Am I missing something?

I've been wanting to do this mod for a while but never been able to find a good used bar. I've re read all six pages of the thread but I think I'm missig something or looking too far into it.

When installing the muffler clamps over the rear axel, what is being done with the rear brake lines? Is there a specific way to place the clamps to keep them off the hard line? I haven't mocked anything into place yet. I was just concerned with the brake line issue. Can anyone who performed the mod post a picture of the clamps going over the brake lines. Thanks.
 
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