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I just spread the brake line axle tube retainer and pried the brake line away from the axle tube just enough to install the 3in clamp.
How much clearance do you have between the brake line and clamp? Did you put anything over the brake line to prevent chafing or rubbing of the brake line and clamp?
 

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I agree. When I installed my sway bar, I just had new rear brake lines installed. I told the shop not to tie them down to the axle. I simply put the muffler clamps under the brake lines, then pushed the hold down tabs around the lines. I then used nylon wire ties to further secure the lines to the axle, so they wont rub on anything.
 

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I just installed the Crown Vic bar using the forward holes that I enlarged slightly. Everything lined up nice and the handling is FLAT. Used the original rubber bushings from the Crown Vic and MOOD K6630 endlinks.
Need to tweak the gas tank heat shield. It's hitting on big bumps.
Are you saying the 'heat shield hitting' is related to the sway bar?

How is it even near the sway bar? The tailpipes are between the bar and the tank heat shields.

Or did you install the sway bar with the arms facing backwards?
 

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I'm sorry. I'm not trying to be a smart a**, I just cant picture how this could be happening.

Your tailpipes are between the axle and the tank shield.

Maybe you could 'clock' the sway bar down and forward a little more so it wont hit anything? It took me a few minutes of moving my bar around before I got the side-to-side position and clocking on the axle right and then I tightened it down.
 

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Found that Addco makes a 1" bar for the FS Fords, too. Their PN is 650.



Summit link:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACO-650/

So if the 50 dollar bar isn't enough, maybe this slightly thicker one will be better? Oh, not sure if it was mentioned before, but it does appear that the one recommended in here IS actually the PN for the stock Marauder bar. So it's the beefiest of the Panther bars offered by Ford. I can't wait to try this swap! Gotta start prepping my disc brake rear! :D
 

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My wagon has a shield at the front of the tank right behind the axle pumpkin. Maybe because of tow package? Maybe for axle heat? Or in case the rear blows it protects the tank?
I might just remove it or at least trim it......

I'm sorry. I'm not trying to be a smart a**, I just cant picture how this could be happening.

Your tailpipes are between the axle and the tank shield.

Maybe you could 'clock' the sway bar down and forward a little more so it wont hit anything? It took me a few minutes of moving my bar around before I got the side-to-side position and clocking on the axle right and then I tightened it down.
 

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ok time to bump this thread, i've decided to take this project on. today i got the necessary Energy Suspension endlinks and center mounts in the mail for the fUrd 20.5mm rear bar, as well as the ES endlinks and center mounts to put my take-off SS 30mm front bar on the wagon. the 3" clamps are on back order from summit, supposed to ship on 12-18, and the rear bar should be in on monday (ordered through a contact at shop pricing). i don't expect this thing to handle like it's on rails, especially with the 15" winter tires on, or the 15" summer bfg's i run in the warmer months, but i think it should be a nice upgrade and should also provide more stability in everyday driving situations. even more so since the stock front bar endlinks are a mess and have been since i've owned the car! i also got a 20' roll of -6 AN push lock hose to replace my current transmission cooler lines of the same material. i had mounted these in a hurry the first time around and now one has started to wear throught the outer layer. i'm gonna run it through the passenger frame rail this time and make sure it's done right. i also have an external perma-cool trans filter kit to plumb-in and mount as well as a secondary b&m stacked plate i'm thinkin about adding since i've plugged the radiator trans cooler and i want the vehicle to be able to tow some heavy loads after the gear install.

does anyone know the front sway bar mounting bolt size for the center mounts to the frame? when i swapped bars on the SS a hundred years ago, i ordered a Totally Stainless kit. i don't want to spend the $$$ on that kit for the wagon (like i even remember what it was), is there a hardware store alternative i can pick up locally?

i'll keep y'all up-to-date as it happens.
 

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Maybe I'm reading your post wrong, but why not just reuse the factory hardware? Mine, on an Ohio car, came off without a problem. When I reinstalled with the new bushings, I put some anti-seize on the threads, and no problem going back in. If you want to upgrade the front bar mounting, there are extensive threads on that option.
 

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bump...

got all the parts necessay except for the 3" clamps. they won't ship till 12-18....what to do?!

still excited for the upgrade, just wanted to keep this alive....
 

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I am going to try this upgrade out too. I even wrote all the part #'s down just in case of another cra-- God forbid, I wont even say the word, (knock on wood), but Kudos for one great thread :D
 

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update: spent sunday at my buddy's shop that has a lift. tore off the crusty stock front sway bar, complete with rusted, snap-away endlinks and crumbling bushings and put on my stock SS 30mm bar with ES poly bushings and endlinks. i was surprised how easy the mount bolts came out of the frame with a little PB blaster. also added the fUrd 20.5mm rear bar with ES polys. a big thanks to bob aka golf caddy for his help throughout the day, and hopefully he'll retrieve all of the metal shavings out of his ear in the near future.

first driving impressions: WOW! even with my 235-70r15 winterforce winter tires on, and the fact that my front bar's bushings were wasted, the improvement was dramatic. one of my favorite mods ever. i would recommend this to anyone with a wagon, i'd give it 10, 10 , f-ing 10! at speed going around long sweeping bends, slower corners in parking lots, bumpy roads, train tracks, and pretty much every other driving condition you can think of has become a pleasure rather than a chore. can't wait to see how it feels with a trailer on the back. don't spend time thinking about doing this mod, get the parts and see how great it is!

sidebar: throughout the course of it's well-used life, the top of the left and right front door run channels had rolled under and were not allowing the glass to fully close. this resulted in very minor windnoise, poor insulation, and now that it's freezing here, there was frost on the INSIDE of the windows. well i borrowed a heat gun, pulled the channels out, and carefully used the heat to reshape the channels and put them back into place. between these minor "mods", it feels like i've taken 10+ years off of the age of this vehicle! sometimes it's the cheap and even free mods that make the biggest differences.

oh, and don't ask for pics, we brought the camera, and only managed to piss off bob's wife and my fiancee for taking so long on a "2 or 3 hour project". carstuff + yuengling = late for everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Another convert! And pretty easy, wasn't it?

Honestly, we can't say enough good things about what this does for your wagon's handling.
 
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